Won't start

Tiny
CWE909
  • 2004 FORD EXPLORER
  • 110,000 MILES

Turn ignition to crank won't start or turn over and no click sounds. Friend with me checked fuses seemed ok. Turned key to on crossed starter, engine turned over but wouldn't start. He suggested either ignition sitch bad or a neutral switch. Any ideas and to figure out if ignition switch or neutral switch? Can one or other be shorted outor crossed to narrow down problem, or does it sound like something else? Thanks guys.

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Friday, September 30th, 2011 AT 2:30 PM

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Tiny
HMAC300
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  • 48,754 POSTS

There are a few fuses and a relay invovled #23&12 in the junction box under the hood as well as a starter relay deal with starting. There is another under the dash and that is fuse 29. If the pcm doesnt' get any power requesting start then the relay won't work. Soyou need to check all of those. Also check your grounds. It still could be an ignition switch or nuetral safety switch but youneed to check that stuff first.

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Friday, September 30th, 2011 AT 11:11 PM
Tiny
CWE909
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Will check out sunday a post what I found. Is the starter relay related to fuses 23, 12 or 29 or is it something or somewhere else.

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Saturday, October 1st, 2011 AT 9:01 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
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Ya they are all related, here is the diagram for it.

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Saturday, October 1st, 2011 AT 11:10 PM
Tiny
CWE909
  • MEMBER

Thanks for response. Am a firefighter and little busy. Wind up going to be tuesday before I get to check out those fuses and relays. This car is my sons' and i'm letting him use my extra vehicle temp. Until we get his figured out. Reply in a day or so. Thanks

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Monday, October 3rd, 2011 AT 8:42 PM
Tiny
CWE909
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Ok folks, I chrcked relays/fuses under hood and in passenger compartment with an ohm meter. All checked to be good. Where do I go from hers e. Guess neutral switch I know its on steering column I beleive, did not see it in engine compartment unless its under a/c compressor or under dash. Hmac300, please continue to advise.

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Wednesday, October 5th, 2011 AT 10:55 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
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Neutral switch could be ont ehtransmission as well I havne't looked where it is. Try switching one of the relays that is like that see if that cures it. Then you know what it is.

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Wednesday, October 5th, 2011 AT 11:43 PM
Tiny
CWE909
  • MEMBER

Hmaceoo tried alternating relays didnt work. Going to replace ignition switch. Got bottom cover off see switch unpugged harness from it but cant figure out, switch has 2 push in clips to get it to release. Good news is 1 is on bottom that I can get to, bad news other clip is on top of switch and that I cant figure out how to get to. Help.

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Saturday, October 8th, 2011 AT 5:28 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
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I'm sending a pic along it just says to release the two locking tabs and remove switch. I'm also sending a pic of multifunction switch in case you need to take that out to get the ignition oout. The multi function is turn sig, wiper, etc.

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Saturday, October 8th, 2011 AT 5:40 PM
Tiny
CWE909
  • MEMBER

Couldn't get to that screw without pulling steering wheel cover, and that's a definite no tha thanks. Finally got switch out, had to break it. Put new one in and guess what, it still wont crank! Okay whats next. I'm guessing neutral switch and I read if I can find it, it can be jumped? What's the next step boss?

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Sunday, October 9th, 2011 AT 2:22 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
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On the previous answer I sent a schematic of the starting system. I told you then to check this out to avoid aggravation like replacing unecessary switches. In the very first answer I said to check that, all you need is a test light or volt ohm meter. Obviously you didn't. The schematic for starting tells you where all the switches are including nuetral switch. Do yourself a favor, have a friend help you an dput a test light on the starter and see if you are getting a bright light. If it is and it won't turn over then you need a starter. If it cranks and won't start you have wasted my time an dyours as you havne'tgiven correct diagnosis from the beginning.

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Sunday, October 9th, 2011 AT 3:33 PM
Tiny
CWE909
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Well sir I sense your frustration as well as my own. Iam 51 yoa, and I am a shade tree mechanics' shade tree mechanic. I had been sick all week and quite frankly did not pay much attention to the diagram. It's my loss on the ignition switch. This is my sons' unfortunately everyone depends on me to do things so I don't have an extra set of hands. I actually have done all of my repairs myself for 20 years and usually if I cant do it, my own personal friend is my mechanic. My son cant afford to tow it to his how for him to fix it. I have used this site over the years and everyone has been great to me. I'll use your diagram and not bother you any further. I did the best I could by myself and being very ill. Thank you and GOD bless you. As soon as I get paid I will donate what I can. No further response needed.

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Sunday, October 9th, 2011 AT 5:34 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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WHAT ABOUT DOIN' THE PLAIN JANE STUFF OF YESTER-YEAR?

LIKE THIS STUFF?

CHECK YOUR FUSES!---YOUR OWNERS MANUAL MAY SHOW YOU LOCATIONS THAT YOU KNEW NOTHING ABOUT! REMOVE AND REPLACE "SUSPECT" FUSES SEVERAL TIMES--THIS MAY SCRAPE OFF CORROSION AND GIVE THEM BETTER CONTACT!

THIS WILL WORK FOR YOU, PROVIDED THAT YOUR BATTERY IS GOOD---OR YOU CAN BE JUMPED OFF!

REMEMBER "NEW STUFF" CAN BE BAD TOO!

YOUR STARTER MAY BE BAD! YOUR SOLENOID MAY BE BAD! Try the stuff below (actions)

TAKE STUFF LOOSECLEAN"SCOOCH IT AROUND" TO OBTAIN BETTER CONTACT. THEN TIGHTEN NUTS AND BOLTS WELLDO NOT JUST PASS ANYTHING OFF AS."IT LOOKS GOOD", OR "THAT LOOKS TIGHT". THIS KINDA THINKIN' WILL BITE YOU IN THE BUTT!

JUST A LITTLE MORE ATTENTION AS YOU GO, MAY SAVE YOU A HECK OF A LOT OF TIME AND $$$!

Do not leave off where the Battery cables connect to the Battery clamps! (Not the posts, the "squeeze connections" on the cables)

While you are at it, Both ends of Pos cable, Both ends of NEG cable. If you still have the problem.

Follow Battery Positive cable to find the Solenoid. Clean it's connections.

Clean and tighten the starter connections too!

ALL IN ALL, EVERY CONNECTION, FROM THE BATTERY, UNTIL IT ENDS UP AT IT'S FINAL DESTINATION MUST BE CHECKED! POS AND NEG!

A KEY TEST, IN BETWEEN WORKING ON CONNECTIONS, MIGHT VERIFY WHICH ONE WAS THE EVIL, PESKY ONE, THAT WAS NOT COOPERATING!
USUALLY A SITUATION LIKEN TO YOURS, A CABLE CONNECTION IS USUALLY THE FIX

IF NOT, I'D SAY THE NEXT STEP AFTER THIS WILL BE CHECKING "FUSIBLE LINKS" (IT'S LIKE A WIRE FUSE). THEY'LL BURN WHEN THEY GET TOO HOT. ALSO IF "OLE FAST 47, " (MY RETIRED USAF DAD'S OLD SAYING) PUT THE JUMPER CABLES ON BACKWARDS

FUSIBLE LINKS COULD BE IN VARIOUS LOCATIONS ON THIS NEW STUFF, THE ONES ON MY JEEPS FEEL LIKE WIRE, WHEN GOOD---STRETCH LIKE A RUBBER BAND IF THE WIRE INSIDE IS BURNED--IF YOU NEED HELP LOCATING THEM LET SOMEBODY KNOW

I HAVE FOUND THAT IF OTHERS ARE PERFORMING THE JUMPER CABLE TASK, IF IT'S DONE WRONG, THEY'LL WILL/ TRY TO PLAY IT OFF.I'M SORRY, I'M ONE OF THOSE GUYS THAT SEES THE GLASS BEING "HALF EMPTY"

HAPPY HUNTING!

KEEP US INFORMED.I'M PULLIN' FOR YOU!

THE MEDIC

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Sunday, October 9th, 2011 AT 6:35 PM
Tiny
CWE909
  • MEMBER

Took car to ford dealership. Problem was the pats. Some how chip in key became corrupted and wiped out part of the pats programing. My son only received 1 key when he bought it, so ford dealership hooked up to daig. Computer and it went crazy. They were able to fresh flash computer and program a new key, and tossed the other to the side for unlocking only. Service manager has 35 years under his belt and has only came across this type of problem. New pats progaming and new ke y and runs great. $112.00 key included. Whew!

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Friday, October 21st, 2011 AT 7:45 PM

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