Not cranking over

Tiny
CWE909
  • 2004 FORD EXPLORER
  • 110,000 MILES

Turn ignition to crank it will not start or turn over and no click sounds. Friend with me checked fuses seemed okay. Turned key to on crossed starter, engine turned over but would not start. He suggested either ignition switch bad or a neutral switch. Any ideas and to figure out if ignition switch or neutral switch? Can one or other be shorted out or crossed to narrow down problem, or does it sound like something else? Thanks guys.

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Friday, September 30th, 2011 AT 2:30 PM

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Tiny
HMAC301
  • EXPERT
  • 49,735 POSTS

Hello,

There is a relay that works the starter that sounds like it has gone bad here is a guide that can help you confirm the failure and get the truck fixed.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

I would also check the fuses, here is a guide for that and the starter and fuse panel diagrams (below)

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Check out the diagrams (Below)

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers

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Friday, September 30th, 2011 AT 11:11 PM
Tiny
CWE909
  • MEMBER

Thanks for response. I am a firefighter and little busy. Wind up going to be Tuesday before I get to check out those fuses and relays. This car is my sons' and I am letting him use my extra vehicle temporarily. Until we get his figured out. Reply in a day or so. Thanks

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Monday, October 3rd, 2011 AT 8:42 PM
Tiny
CWE909
  • MEMBER

Okay folks, I checked relays/fuses under hood and in passenger compartment with an ohm meter. All checked to be good. Where do I go from here? Guess neutral switch I know it is on steering column I believe, did not see it in engine compartment unless it is under A/C compressor or under dash. Hmac300, please continue to advise.

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Wednesday, October 5th, 2011 AT 10:55 PM
Tiny
HMAC301
  • EXPERT
  • 49,735 POSTS

Neutral switch could be one the transmission as well I have not looked where it is. Try switching one of the relays that is like that see if that cures it. Then you know what it is.

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Wednesday, October 5th, 2011 AT 11:43 PM
Tiny
CWE909
  • MEMBER

Hmac300, tried alternating relays did not work. Going to replace ignition switch. Got bottom cover off see switch unplugged harness from it, but cannot figure out, switch has two push in clips to get it to release. Good news is one is on bottom that I can get to, bad news other clip is on top of switch and that I cannot figure out how to get to. Help.

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Saturday, October 8th, 2011 AT 5:28 PM
Tiny
HMAC301
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  • 49,735 POSTS

I am sending a picture along it just says to release the two locking tabs and remove switch. I am also sending a picture of multi-function switch in case you need to take that out to get the ignition out. The multi function is turn signal, wiper, etc.

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Saturday, October 8th, 2011 AT 5:40 PM
Tiny
CWE909
  • MEMBER

Could not get to that screw without pulling steering wheel cover, and that is a definite no thanks. Finally got switch out, had to break it. Put new one in and guess what, it still will not crank! Okay what is next? I am guessing neutral switch and I read if I can find it, it can be jumped? What is the next step boss?

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Sunday, October 9th, 2011 AT 2:22 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
  • 10,272 POSTS

What about doing the plain Jane stuff of yester-year?

Like this stuff?

Check your fuses. Your owners manual may show you locations that you knew nothing about! Remove and replace "suspect" fuses several times--this may scrape off corrosion and give them better contact!

This will work for you, provided that your battery is good---or you can be jumped off.

Remember "new stuff" can be bad too!

Your starter may be bad! Your solenoid may be bad! Try the stuff below (actions)

Take stuff looseclean"scooch it around" to obtain better contact. Then tighten nuts and bolts welldo not just pass anything off as."it looks good", or "that looks tight". This kinda thinkin' will bite you in the butt!

Just a little more attention as you go, may save you a heck of a lot of time and $$$!

Do not leave off where the Battery cables connect to the Battery clamps! (Not the posts, the "squeeze connections" on the cables)

While you are at it, Both ends of Pos cable, Both ends of NEG cable. If you still have the problem.

Follow Battery Positive cable to find the Solenoid. Clean it's connections.

Clean and tighten the starter connections too!

All in all, every connection, from the battery, until it ends up at its final destination must be checked! Positive and negative.

A key test, in between working on connections, might verify which one was the evil, pesky one, that was not cooperating!
Usually a situation liken to yours, a cable connection is usually the fix

If not, I would say the next step after this will be checking "fusible links" (it is like a wire fuse) hey will burn when they get too hot. Also, if "ole fast 47, " (my retired USAF dad's old saying) put the jumper cables on backwards.

Fusible links could be in various locations on this new stuff, the ones on my Jeeps feel like wire, when good stretch like a rubber band if the wire inside is burned if you need help locating them let somebody know.

I have found that if others are performing the jumper cable task, if it is done wrong, they will/ try to play it off. I am sorry, I am one of those guys that sees the glass being "half empty".

Happy hunting!

Keep us informed. I am pullingfor you!

THE MEDIC

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Sunday, October 9th, 2011 AT 6:35 PM
Tiny
CWE909
  • MEMBER

Took car to Ford dealership. Problem was the PATS. Some how chip in key became corrupted and wiped out part of the pats programming. My son only received one key when he bought it, so ford dealership hooked up to diagnostic computer and it went crazy. They were able to fresh flash computer and program a new key, and tossed the other to the side for unlocking only. Service manager has thirty five years under his belt and has only came across this type of problem. New PATS programming and new key and runs great. $112.00 key included. Whew!

Thank you and God bless you.

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Friday, October 21st, 2011 AT 7:45 PM
Tiny
ANDREA SMITH
  • 2004 FORD EXPLORER
  • 21,000 MILES

Replaced battery and starter and alternator will not crank. Been running good, snowed today will not crank.

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Monday, December 4th, 2017 AT 5:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • EXPERT
  • 4,593 POSTS

So you hit the key and it does not do anything? No clicks or lights on the dash? Do the headlights work? Trying to determine if you have any battery power inside the vehicle, could be a bad battery cable or connector, or a bad mega fuse or something like that. Give us a bit more information please.

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Monday, December 4th, 2017 AT 5:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ANDREA SMITH
  • MEMBER

Okay, last year bought a alternator set month new battery and starter. Yesterday it snowed will not say a word nothing.

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Monday, December 4th, 2017 AT 5:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ANDREA SMITH
  • MEMBER

No power inside of car. No lights nothing.

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Monday, December 4th, 2017 AT 5:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
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  • 4,593 POSTS

So the car sat a month? If yes you have a dead battery. Most newer vehicles will draw a battery down in a month if they are not run at least once a week.

If it has not set a month then you have either a bad battery or bad battery cable(s) or connection. I would check those first, then hook a charger on it and see if the battery recovers. If it is a bad connection or connector those are not hard to deal with.

But if the vehicle has been setting and the temperatures have been at freezing or below for more than a day or two, your battery may be frozen as well, that means it will not recover and has to be replaced.

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Monday, December 4th, 2017 AT 5:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ANDREA SMITH
  • MEMBER

No, the car did not set for month last month I bought a new battery and started to Friday night Saturday it would not say nothing no in side lights no noises.

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Monday, December 4th, 2017 AT 5:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FORDBEN
  • 2004 FORD EXPLORER
  • 4.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 168,235 MILES

I was changing sway bar links and left the key in the run/on position while I worked so I could move the tires around. Upon completing the job I tried to start the truck and NO CRANK/ NO START SINCE.

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Monday, December 4th, 2017 AT 5:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • EXPERT
  • 31,947 POSTS

Charge the battery and get it load tested, the battery may be faulty.

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Monday, December 4th, 2017 AT 5:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
  • 10,272 POSTS

Different Guy,

If this is a security system issue, I reckon STEVE W. might be the feller to aid you.

Other than that, lots of times we don't get the whole story and a speedy fix gets delayed!

Have you attempted a Jump Start? Possibly got the cables crossed up, even for a split second?

Stuff we need to know!

Below is a link/ answer from a while back that I gave.

It is long and boring, but the "hands on' portion may help a lot. I made a few pictures at the end too.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1996-chevrolet-tahoe-wont-start-sounds-dead-battery-jumpbox-get-same-reults

All righty then

Have you made any progress?

The Medic

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Monday, December 4th, 2017 AT 5:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FORDBEN
  • MEMBER

The battery is fully charged. I removed and inspected all fuses/relays. I removed, inspected and reinstalled the starter. I had power from white/pink wire from neutral switch but not at top connection which resulted in no power at ignition switch. I ran a new wire from white/pink wire at the neutral switch to the top and now I have power at the ignition switch. Dash lights come on, radio turns on NO check engine light and still no crank no start

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Monday, December 4th, 2017 AT 5:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • EXPERT
  • 4,593 POSTS

Okay, it sounds like a bad battery cable or fusible link is not letting power into the vehicle. I would start with checking the battery cable ends. Especially the ones feeding the power center under the hood.

Then use a test light to check all of the fuses in the power center under the hood.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

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Monday, December 4th, 2017 AT 5:51 PM (Merged)

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