Parasitic draw - battery drain overnight?

Tiny
DAVIDWRIGHTSON
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 HONDA ACCORD
  • 150,000 MILES
Car battery died. After doing a test with my multi meter I found a fuse labeled "stop" was drawing significant power from the battery. After removing the fuse the draw was back to normal. What exactly does the fuse label "stop" control. The brake lights?
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Thursday, July 2nd, 2020 AT 10:04 AM

38 Replies

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
Good afternoon,

How much was the draw?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-dead-overnight

I attached what the fuse controls. You need to disconnect each component until the draw drops down to 50-75 milli amps.

Roy
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Thursday, July 2nd, 2020 AT 10:31 AM
Tiny
DAVIDWRIGHTSON
  • MEMBER
The meter read like 6 amp if i'm not mistaken. After I removed fuse 47 is was down to 50 milli amps.
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Saturday, July 4th, 2020 AT 12:13 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
I attached what the fuse controls.

You need to disconnect the horn relay, the brake light switch, ignition key light and the key interlock switch.

Then recheck the draw and see if goes to 50.

Roy
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Saturday, July 4th, 2020 AT 12:44 PM
Tiny
TYLERJ10
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 HONDA ACCORD
  • 6 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 207,000 MILES
I've been noticing the lights on the dash flashing here and there and hazard lights coming on and flashing and the power locks locking and unlocking randomly.
Then the key got stuck in the ignition, I could turn on and off the car but the key would not come out. Then the battery died and the key came out.
I jumped the car and drove it and turned it off, when I went to start it again thirty minutes later it was dead again. Multi-meter showed that it was pulsating between about 5 to 8 volts then kept pulsing all the way to about 2 volts.
I noticed when it was still running a rapid clicking noise coming from the fuse box underneath the hood. When I pulled fuse 54 it stopped, when I put it back in it clicked again.
Finally after the car was off I tested all the relays in the under the hood fuse box and got clicks out of all of them by plugging them into a wire with female spade connector on one end and stripped wire on the other. I plugged female connector to 86 positive prong on the relay to the positive post on my other cars battery and then the 85 prong to the negative post on the battery, they all clicked when I did this except for relay r2 which actually blew up.
What could be the cause of the draining battery? The relay, or something else? I noticed a red cord under the hood on the driver side kinda in the top right corner was cut and the previous owners told me it was the alarm system and they cut it so the car wouldn't go off, maybe because the alarm would act up like the power locks and lights were. Any advice would be appreciated.
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Wednesday, September 30th, 2020 AT 3:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Welcome to 2CarPros.

Have you checked the alternator? It sounds like it is failing. Do me a favor, since voltage was so low when the engine was running, first make sure the battery terminals are clean and tight,. Next, fully charge the battery. If you don't have a charger, remove the battery and have it charged at a parts store. If you take it to a parts store, have them load test it to confirm it is good. If the battery is good, reinstall the battery and check for alternator output. Here are links that will walk you through everything I just suggested. Do this and let me know the results.

_____________________________________

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-charge-your-car-battery

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-car-battery

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

You will need a volt meter or multi meter for checking the alternator.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

___________________________________

Based on your description, I have a feeling the alternator has failed. If you can't check it at home with the link I supplied, remove it and have it bench tested at a parts store. Most will do it for free.

Here are directions for removal and replacement of an alternator:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-alternator
__________________________________

If it is the alternator, here are the directions for replacement specific to your vehicle. The attached pictures correlate with these directions.

________________________________

Alternator Replacement

1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons.
2. Disconnect the battery negative cable, then disconnect the positive cable.

pic 1

3. Move the auto-tensioner (A) to relieve tension from the alternator belt (B), and remove the alternator belt.

pic 2

4. Disconnect the condenser fan motor connector (A) from the condenser fan shroud.
5. Remove the condenser fan/shroud assembly (B).

pic 3

6. Disconnect the 4P connector (A) and BLK wire (B) from the alternator.

pic 4

7. Remove the mount bolt (A) and alternator bracket mounting bolt (B), then remove the harness clamp (C) from the alternator bracket.
8. Install in the reverse order of removal.
9. Enter the anti-theft code for the radio, then enter the customer's radio station presets.

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe
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Wednesday, September 30th, 2020 AT 3:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TYLERJ10
  • MEMBER
Hey thanks for the reply. I wanted to mention that I tested the battery after I turned it off and it was pulsating that low, not while the car was on. So I don't think it was the alternator. Also, I found out there was an immobilizer interface installed and the product is by directed electronics model 556u. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it. The last thing is I remembered I pulled out fuse 55 and 56 not just 54 while the car was still on and the clicking would stop.
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Wednesday, September 30th, 2020 AT 3:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TYLERJ10
  • MEMBER
Also I cleaned the battery terminals and drove it for a little to charge the battery.
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Wednesday, September 30th, 2020 AT 3:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Welcome back:

Is it running properly now?

Joe
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Wednesday, September 30th, 2020 AT 3:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TYLERJ10
  • MEMBER
No it is not
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Wednesday, September 30th, 2020 AT 3:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TYLERJ10
  • MEMBER
I'm thinking either a bad battery or the relay was bad (r2) on passenger fuse box under hood or maybe bad fuses 54, 55, or 56. Do any of these stick out as a more potential problem or could they all be the problem? Thanks
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Wednesday, September 30th, 2020 AT 3:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Welcome back:

Is the battery still going dead? As far as the fuses and relay, I would check them all. Here are a few links that explain how to do the checks:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Let me know.

Joe
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Wednesday, September 30th, 2020 AT 3:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STEPHON
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 162,000 MILES
Hi everyone,

My 1998 Honda Accord Coupe EX, 162,000 miles stalled at highway speeds the other night. When it cut out all power went down for a moment before the dash lights returned. The RPM and speedometer dial went down to zero before bouncing back up.

I coasted to the shoulder and tried to re-start. The car tried to turn over but quickly reduced to just a clicking sound of the battery and was completely dead.

The mechanic thinks it's the battery because it tested "BAD".

SIZE - 640 CCA
Available Amps - 338 CCA
%Capacity - 52%
Temp - 70F
Initial Volts - 12.72 Volts
Final Volts - 10.56 Volts
Impedance - 9.44 Ohms

Is this test the current state of the battery? Could it test "BAD", but be a "GOOD" battery if the alternator hasn't been working properly to charge it? I am also wondering if it might be the ignition coil.

I exchanged the battery @ Costco, but last night it hesitated again, but didn't stall. For some reason I don't think it's the battery. My guess is the alternator, but it passed the test or the ignition coil.

CUT TO: Next Day -

It was recommended to me that I get the cars charging system checked out. I did at Pep Boys and the brand new 2 day old checked BAD. The alternator, once again checked out GOOD.

So I guess it's not the alternator, not the battery, but something is draining the battery.

Any ideas.

I'm going back to Pep Boys to get a full electrical diagnosis tomorrow morning.
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Wednesday, September 30th, 2020 AT 3:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CEXPT
  • MEMBER
Have the electrical load detector unit located underhood fuse/relay box right rear of engine compartment tested
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Wednesday, September 30th, 2020 AT 3:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STEPHON
  • MEMBER
Thanks for your suggestion. I'll mention it when I go back to Pep Boys tomorrow.
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Wednesday, September 30th, 2020 AT 3:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Symptoms indicates a possible ignition switch failure.
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Wednesday, September 30th, 2020 AT 3:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STEPHON
  • MEMBER
Hmm KHLow2008, That makes sense I think. I say that because often when I turn the car off the stereo will cut off and then come back on. I understand that it should pause when I am starting the car, but not when I turn it off. I'll mention that as well when I take the car to Pep Boys for the electrical diagnosis.

Thank you!
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Wednesday, September 30th, 2020 AT 3:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STEPHON
  • MEMBER
I changed the ignition switch and, so far, feel confidant that it was the problem. The stereo no longer, at least it hasn't yet, cuts off when I turn the engine off. Thanks so much for all of the suggestions I received; I really appreciate it.
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Wednesday, September 30th, 2020 AT 3:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hope that is the correct answer.

Have a great day.
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Wednesday, September 30th, 2020 AT 3:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MANOONA27
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 120,000 MILES
We have a slow battery drain in our car. We have had all the major things in the engine checked out and nothing can be found that would be causing this and so it has been suggested that it is something electrical. At the same time, something is off with my power locks. The remote power lock keychain no longer works to unlock/lock the doors, or set the alarm system, though I can hear it trying to work and is relatively new (so I don't think the batteries in the little unit are bad). When I manually unlock the drivers side door, all the other doors unlock. When I manually unlock the passenger side door, all the locks EXCEPT the drivers side door unlock. I have to manually press down the lock on the drivers side door to get it to lock, though the power lock button on the drivers side door works to lock all the other doors in the car. Anyway, my question is: Can this problem with the lock/alarm system be the root of my ongoing battery drain issue and if so, what kind of auto shop do I need to take it to?
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Wednesday, September 30th, 2020 AT 3:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Yu need to perform a parasitic drain test to find out which system is causing the problem.

Get an ammeter and disconnect the battery negative terminal. Install the ammeter between the battery terminal and negative cable and allow to settle for a few minutes. Note the amperage rreading, should be below 0.05 amps. If amperage is high, start by pulling the main fuses and bnote which fuse causes the amperage to drop.
That would be the circuit to look for.

" When I manually unlock the passenger side door, all the locks EXCEPT the drivers side door unlock."

I am confused by the above statement, can you elaborate?
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Wednesday, September 30th, 2020 AT 3:48 PM (Merged)

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