2003 Chevy Tahoe 03 Tahoe fuel problem

Tiny
POSSUMFL
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 CHEVROLET TAHOE
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 90,000 MILES
2003 Tahoe 5.3 Flex fuel with 90000 miles. Car would not start 2 months ago, was told it was the fuel pump, replaced it with an Airtex and it ran for a couple weeks, then would not start again. No fuel pressure at intake. Replaced fuel pump with a GM pump, car started and ran fine for a couple weeks, was out driving around, turned it off and it would not start. Wiggled fuel pump relay with the key on, got fuel pressure and it started. Replaced fuel pump relay, checked connector for any signs of corrosion, used dielctric grease on new relay. Ran fine for a few days then the same no start condition. I wiggled the relay, swithced it out with another, and nothing happened.
Was told on another answer forum to replace ignition switch, I did, ran fine for a few days and now wont start.
One time when it did not start I held the key on and moved the gear selector rapidly from P to 1 and fuel pump kicked on.
Here is what happens when the no start condition is happening. I turn the key on and the fuel gauge stays on E, when I try and crank the starter it will turn over just fine, but only one time, if I want to turn the motor over again I must take the key out, wait, put it back in to get the motor to turn over again.
If the fuel gauge comes up when I turn the key on it will start righjt up, when it runs it is perfect, never skip a beat, no check engine lights or any such thing.
The car will not start now, I banged wiggled rattled everthing I ccould think of with the key on and the fuel pump will not kick on. I read the service bulliten about the fuel pump module connector, but I have the Flex Fuel model and it excludes that model, although mine does have the square connector.
This is driving me out of my mind. Please advise if you are able to help
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Thursday, February 18th, 2010 AT 10:30 AM

14 Replies

Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
Your statement that you need to remove the key to get the engine to crank leads me to think it could be the security system, which disables the starter and injectors, try a passkey relearn: GM PASS LOCK RELEARN- Ignition to "run" position, try to start and let key return to "run" position
Approx ten minutes security light will go off
Turn key "off" and wait 5 seconds
Repeat 2 more times for a total of 3 relearns.
Turn key off, then start it.
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Thursday, February 18th, 2010 AT 3:06 PM
Tiny
POSSUMFL
  • MEMBER
I tried the relearn, it did not work. The security light goes off 5 seconds after I try and start the car. I did the relearn exactly as you outlined, and then tried it again as soon as the security light went off. Still no fuel pressure. Gauge stays on E with the low gas light on. I have also tried the other set of keys and door lock fob in the past and it made no differance, I tried disconnecting the battery once before also and it did not help. Everything else on the dash functions normally. I had the cluster replaced through GM at about 50000. Any other suggestions? Thanks, Robert
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Thursday, February 18th, 2010 AT 4:10 PM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
I will research it tommorrow, and get back to you.
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Thursday, February 18th, 2010 AT 5:41 PM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
There is a Tech bulliten about the ignition switch indexing be off, read it below! Diagnostic Information for Intermittent Vehicle No Crank/Dead Battery TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN Reference Number(s): 04-06-03-002, Date of Issue: February 05, 2004 Related Ref Number(s): 04-06-03-002 ARTICLE BEGINNING SERVICE INFORMATION When diagnosing a concern regarding an intermittent vehicle no crank or dead battery, technicians should remove and reinstall the ignition switch using the Ignition Switch Replacement procedure in the Steering Wheel and Column section of SI. The ignition switch may have been misindexed in the steering column during a previous replacement. If the ignition switch is misindexed in one direction, the ignition switch circuits will not be completely open when the ignition switch is in the OFF position with the key removed. This may result in lights remaining on or instrument panel lights illuminating, which will drain the battery. If the ignition switch is misindexed in the opposite direction, the ignition circuits will open correctly but the ignition switch may not close the crank circuit properly when the ignition key is turned to the crank position. This will result in a no crank concern. Press Ctrl+F to find exact text Affected Model(s): 2004 Buick Rainier; 2000-2004 Cadillac Escalade; 2002-2004 Cadillac Escalade EXT; 2003-2004 Cadillac Escalade ESV; 1998-2004 Chevrolet Blazer, S-10 Pickup; 1999-2004 Chevrolet Silverado; 2000-2004 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe; 2002-2004 Chevrolet Avalanche, TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer EXT; 2003-2004 Chevrolet Express; 1998-2004 GMC Jimmy/Envoy, Sonoma; 1999-2004 GMC Sierra; 2000-2004 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL; 2002-2004 GMC Envoy, Envoy XL; 2003-2004 GMC Savana; 2004 GMC Envoy XUV; 1998-2004 Oldsmobile Bravada; 2003-2004 HUMMER H2 Page 1 of 1 2/19/2010 .
Check email for the proceedure.
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Friday, February 19th, 2010 AT 12:52 PM
Tiny
POSSUMFL
  • MEMBER
I don't understand how this could be the problem. I installed a factory switch and it worked fine after I put it in.
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Friday, February 19th, 2010 AT 1:11 PM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
Your cranking problem fits the description of a mis indexed switch. You might want Chevy to check it for you.
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Saturday, February 20th, 2010 AT 8:15 AM
Tiny
POSSUMFL
  • MEMBER
Removed ignition switch, it was correct. This is the same no fuel problem I had with the factory switch, and after I replaced the switch. Everything else on the vehicle works correctly. I am not getting fuel, the fuel pump does not kick on.
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Saturday, February 20th, 2010 AT 10:07 AM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
There is another tech bulliten on the driver's seat wiring harness chaffing on the seat rail, have a look there, it also can cause a no start.. Here's the TSB:
INTERMITTENT NO START, SERVICE STABILITY MESSAGE, ABS LIGHT ILLUMINATED, MULTIPLE DTCS, DIC SHOWS UNKNOWN DRIVER, VARIOUS ELECTRICAL RELATED CONDITIONS (REPAIR AND/OR REROUTE SEAT WIRING HARNESS) TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN Reference Number(s): 03-08-50-014, Date of Issue: August 20, 2003 CADILLAC: 2003 Escalade, Escalade ESV, Escalade EXT CHEVROLET: 2003 Avalanche, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe GMC: 2003 Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL SECTION: 08 - Body and Accessories Related Ref Number(s): 03-08-50-014 ARTICLE BEGINNING CONDITION Some customers may comment on any of the following conditions: Vehicle intermittent no-start " Service Stability Message " ABS light illuminated " Multiple DTCs set " Driver Information Center (DIC) shows unknown driver " Various electrical related conditions " CAUSE A chafed or pinched seat wiring harness under the driver seat may be a cause of this condition. Because of the routing, a portion of the seat wiring harness may rest on the inboard edge of the seat track or frame. Over time, the harness may be pinched or chafed because of the seat movement. Refer to the illustration below ( Fig. 1 ). The illustration shows the inverted position of the seat bottom. The arrow shows the primary location of the possible harness chafing/pinching. CORRECTION Inspect the routing of the seat wiring harness. Reroute the seat wiring harness and attaching harness fastener (1 in Fig. 1 ) to the opposite side of the seat module bracket. Repair the harness as necessary. Refer to Wiring Repairs in the Wiring Systems sub-section of SI. The seat may have to be removed for ease of access and proper repair of the wiring harness. Fig. 1: Sear Wiring Harness If any of the above conditions still remain after this repair, refer to SI for further diagnostic information. Page 1 of 2 INTERMITTENT NO START, SERVICE STABILITY MESSAGE, ABS LIGHT ILLU...2/21/2010


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_seat_harness_1.jpg

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Sunday, February 21st, 2010 AT 6:29 AM
Tiny
POSSUMFL
  • MEMBER
Wow. Who would have thought to look under the seat! I spent 3 hours yesterday looking for wiring problems, took the fuse block out, took the dash apart, looked for any king of loose or chafed wires, but silly me did not look under the seat. Well I looked under the seat today, moved the wire from where it was caught on the seat frame, moved the seat all the way back, and what happened? The fuel pump kicked on and it started right up. Thank you! I hope that is really the problem this time. I guess I will know in a few weeks if it keeps on starting. Everytime I have replaced something else it always started right up so it is hard to say if this was the culprit, but I sure hope so.
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Sunday, February 21st, 2010 AT 10:32 AM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
It is wierd how they route wires sometimes!
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Monday, February 22nd, 2010 AT 2:33 PM
Tiny
POSSUMFL
  • MEMBER
We have driven the vehicle about 5 times, less than 100 miles, started up and ran fine all week until this afternoon when it wouldn't start again. I examined the wiring harness and everything is nice and tight, no chaffing, everything looks and fits like it should, but I'm having the same problem with the fuel pump not kicking on. What else do you recommend I try? Thanks, Robert.
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Sunday, February 28th, 2010 AT 5:45 PM
Tiny
2CARPROS LINSEY
  • MEMBER
We appreciate your donation and look forward to helping you in the future
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Monday, March 1st, 2010 AT 3:25 PM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
I dont know who linzsmith is. Not a big help. Did you remove the plastic conduit under the seat and inspect the wiring inside it? That would be my next step, then test for power at the pump connector. Something in the wiring or the pump needs a look.
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Monday, March 1st, 2010 AT 4:08 PM
Tiny
LOUR70
  • MEMBER
Did you ever get this one figured out? I'm experiencing the same exact problems on my 2005 Silverado 6.0L. I've gone thru the same steps. Please Help!
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Saturday, May 11th, 2013 AT 8:12 PM

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