Engine will not start and run?

Tiny
ANONYMOUS
  • MEMBER
  • 2012 FORD EXPLORER
  • 13,000 MILES
It will not start. The starter turns but it will not start. The ford mechanic stated that it is getting fuel and fire and that it must be a communication problem, then he stated that a mouse chewed the wires (he first stated that I must have parked in on an incline). I dont believe him. When I try to start it and release the key, the starter continues to turn and I have to manually turn the key to the off position. What do you think is the problem?
Monday, December 31st, 2012 AT 4:22 PM

38 Replies

Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • MEMBER
When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Monday, December 31st, 2012 AT 4:55 PM
Tiny
SAJID_1979
  • MEMBER
  • 2008 FORD EXPLORER
  • 4.7L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 12,000 MILES
My Explorer is Stall on the road it is starting but after normal temperature or after 3 min. English is stop. Actually Engine sign Light is On from last 6 months and it was shaking on city on brake & stop I did all computer check, Gear Transmission check everything was OK only TP Censor error, I change that also but again the same error. Then I did engine tune up, after tune up it was ok for one week and then again that error is coming the same thing. And now suddenly my engine is Stop on Road the car dealer service center is telling to change PCM Car Computer Does this will fix my Problem because computer is very expensive and had already change Fuel Pump, Filter, etc. Please help me.
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Tuesday, December 29th, 2020 AT 11:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
It may be a pcm issue but he will need to install it anyhow. The pcm may need reprogramming as well.
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Tuesday, December 29th, 2020 AT 11:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SAJID_1979
  • MEMBER
Thanks for your reply, The same service dealer said it is PCM problem we order a new one now we are waiting for it, this will take 10 days to arrived in our city. I hope after that this problem will be solve.
Thanks again
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Tuesday, December 29th, 2020 AT 11:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SAJID_1979
  • MEMBER
Now my car is very good after replacing PCM Computer it cost around $1300 new PCM. But now after two I got another error and engine light is on our service diagnose the error and found that EGR Value need to replace. They told me it's not urgent you can change later after one or two months.

Can I wait for two months does this will not effect other parts also I am afraid that after replacing this it may come another error.

Thanks for your help

Regards
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Tuesday, December 29th, 2020 AT 11:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
You can wait it won't hurt anything. You might try cleaning the passage way out sometimes that fixes it but you need a scanner to remove the code.
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Tuesday, December 29th, 2020 AT 11:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SAJID_1979
  • MEMBER
Thank you so much
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Tuesday, December 29th, 2020 AT 11:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ROWECHICKY
  • MEMBER
  • 2007 FORD EXPLORER
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 90,000 MILES
Yesterday I was driving home on the interstate at about 65 mph when my car just died. I still had radio and wiper power as it was raining and the lights were working too. Initially I thought I might be low on gas and perhaps I was simply running out. However the light that indicates I am low on fuel was not on yet (and I know it works because it come on several times since owning the car). I got over to the side of the road quickly and tried to start it again and nothing, it would NOT start. Finally got some road side assistance and added gas just to be sure it wasn't just out of gas. Didn't help. Then when I try to start it again after adding the gas, it just makes a clicking sound. Due to the noise on the interstate, it was hard to determine where the clicking sound is coming from.

It still has power such as lights, power windows, radio, etc. I just don't know what the issue could be. It does have about 90,000 miles and they are all highway miles. I drive about 55 miles round trip 5 days a week and I am about 100 miles overdue for an oil change ( I know, I know). Any ideas what could have caused it to just die and now make this clicking sound?

I have had no prior indicators that I had low power, dimmed lights ( like the alternator) or anything wrong with the starter, it's never once acted like it wasn't going to start even in sub zero weather. I bought the car used from a local dealer just last October and its been a wonderful car so far until this.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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Tuesday, December 29th, 2020 AT 11:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
PROTECH1980
  • EXPERT
When you first pulled over on the road and tried starting it, did it crank and crank but not start, or did it no crank and click, basically I need to know if it was a crank no start or a no crank.
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Tuesday, December 29th, 2020 AT 11:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ROWECHICKY
  • MEMBER
When I first pulled over, it did try to restart and quickly died again. There was no clicking noise at this point. It seemed like it just wasn't getting gas. Thus the reason I thought to myself it might be out of gas. I tried this two more times and same thing. It was after I added more gas and then tried to restart it that I got the clicking noise. When you turn the key in the ignition to the first click, I hear the internal sound of the car coming to life- ding, ding, ding (indicating that the battery is working) and the lights and radio will come on, it's when I crank it once more to start the engine that I get the clicking sound.
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Tuesday, December 29th, 2020 AT 11:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JEFFSK
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 FORD EXPLORER
  • 60 MILES
I have a 2006 Ford Explorer. My wife drove it to her daughters house this morning, parked it, gets back in several hours later and it will not start.

One thing that I have noticed recently. When you get in and start the vehicle, the headlights and dashboards lights flash on for just a second and then go right back out. I have never seen this and don't know if these incidents are related

Please help. Thank you
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Tuesday, December 29th, 2020 AT 11:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
It sounds like the fuel pump might be having a problem.

follow this link:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Roy
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Tuesday, December 29th, 2020 AT 11:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JONTYRA
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 FORD EXPLORER
  • 4.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 190,000 MILES
When I drive my car for twenty or thirty minutes then shut it off and it wont start back up. It turns over but that's it. I can let it set for a couple hours and it cranks back up with no problems.
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Tuesday, December 29th, 2020 AT 11:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Welcome to 2CarPros.

Based on your description, it sounds like a bad crankshaft position sensor. Take a look through these links:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-crank-shaft-angle-sensor-works

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

What you need to do is when it won't start, check to see if there is spark to the plugs. If there isn't, the aforementioned sensor is my first suspect. When they go bad, they become very sensitive to heat.

So, here is a link that shows how to check for ignition spark:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Here are a few links that will help you when testing for spark.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

If you find the sensor is bad, here is a link that shows in general how one is replaced:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle for replacement. The attached picture correlates with these directions.

CRANKSHAFT POSITION (CKP) SENSOR

See Picture 1

Removal and Installation
1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist.
2. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
3. Disconnect the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor electrical connector.
4. Remove the bolt and the CKP sensor.
- To install, tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).

5. NOTE: Be sure the sensor wiring is routed away from the battery cable.

To install, reverse the removal procedure.

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe
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Tuesday, December 29th, 2020 AT 11:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JONTYRA
  • MEMBER
Thanks I will give it a try, I will let you know what happens.
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Tuesday, December 29th, 2020 AT 11:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
You are very welcome. Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe
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Tuesday, December 29th, 2020 AT 11:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GAFFER2005
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 FORD EXPLORER
  • 4.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 218,000 MILES
Changed fuel rail pressure sensor about a month ago (gave code for this). Car began acting up about two weeks ago. Would start and run fine. If I stopped somewhere when I can back out the car would start and stall. After about fifteen minutes I could get it to start and drive. It continued to get worse. The car then just shut off while driving and could not get it to restart. I smelt a burning smell and stopped trying to start it. Also the battery died from trying to start it. Had it towed home. A friend came a looked at the car. Apparently the starter got cooked so I fireplaces that. Replaced the fuel pump, crankshaft sensor, spark plugs. Car fires up and stalls. Won t stay running. Changed the actuator and still starts and stalls. Someone please help.
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Tuesday, December 29th, 2020 AT 11:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY1
  • EXPERT
Hi Gaffer2005,

Can you tell me which actuator you replaced? Are you referring to the IAC or idle air control? This is what this sounds like. I attached the description of this component.

If you replaced this, then we will need to get access to a scan tool. Hopefully, you have one that will look at live data. If not, there are some things we can check but it will make this more difficult.

Let's start with the IAC replacement or not question and then the scan tool. If you did the IAC and do NOT have a scan tool, I will send you a list of possible causes but unfortunately, they will not be as definitive. Let me know and we can go from there. Thanks
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-1
Tuesday, December 29th, 2020 AT 11:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GAFFER2005
  • MEMBER
We actually changed the throttle body and throttle ignition coil.
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Tuesday, December 29th, 2020 AT 11:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GAFFER2005
  • MEMBER
No scan tool for live data.
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Tuesday, December 29th, 2020 AT 11:34 AM (Merged)

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