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Engine stalls

Tiny
94 TRANSAM
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I can't find that motor as an 1987 either.

Check up loaded photo. What is the connector in the red circle?
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Saturday, February 15th, 2020 AT 5:58 PM
Tiny
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I will keep looking more in depth tomorrow. I looked over the top area and under some plastic guards on the firewall to no avail. (See attached picture). On that picture the last item to the right looks like a sensor the other pieces are relays. Will double check info. Thanks for your patience and help friend.
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Sunday, February 16th, 2020 AT 3:56 PM
Tiny
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By the way it does say 1987 on the registration and 3.8 on the engine tag. The 1987 3.8 Lesabre does come up on rockauto's website catalog. Dunno. Wish I had Alldata, hahaha.
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Sunday, February 16th, 2020 AT 4:10 PM
Tiny
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Hi,

In 1987, the 3.8 was the only engine I see as available on this vehicle. Have you checked for diagnostic trouble codes? Here is a link showing how it's done. You don't need a scanner.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/buick-cadillac-chevy-gmc-oldsmobile-pontiac-gm-1983-1995-obd1-code-definitions-and-retrieval-method

Now, if there is a problem with the MAP, you should have a code 33. Is that the case? Interestingly, even if the MAP fails, the ECM will substitute a fixed MAP value and use the throttle position sensor to control the fuel delivery.

I watched the video of it running. Something was popping from the side of the engine. Are you sure there isn't a vacuum leak as was first mentioned? Have you checked engine timing and engine compression?

Let us know.

Joe
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Monday, February 17th, 2020 AT 8:07 PM
Tiny
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Update: got codes:
12 system normal
15 coolant sensor circuit low open
23 intake air flow sensor out of range, low

The TPS sensor is not calibrated, I replaced with a new one. Had also replaced the water temp sensor in the past. I will check codes and post back. Took out the thermostat because it was stuck closed. I also need to get some carburetor spray to check for a vacuum leak and lastly some transmission fluid to replace the amount that I drained when checking the color.
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Wednesday, February 19th, 2020 AT 3:45 PM
Tiny
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The idea that the coolant temperature sensor is off can be the cause of the high idle. Since the thermostat was removed, it will take longer for the engine to heat up, and may not reach operating temperature. The computer may be causing the fuel mixture to be too rich. As far as the MAF, disconnect it and see if the problem goes away. That will force the computer to go to predetermined settings. If it is your problem, it should idle normal.

Let me know how things turn out for you. Also, it really should have a new thermostat in it.

Take care,
Joe
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Wednesday, February 19th, 2020 AT 8:04 PM
Tiny
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I will make another video soon, the car now turns and stays on. Very rough idle with high idle. Radiator fan does not work. The thermostat does open a little when I put into hot water but have no way to compare how open is open enough? Although it is currently out of the car. Sprayed some carburetor cleaner and saw no noticeable rpm change but the car with its rough idle it's hard to tell.

The temperature sensor and TPS are new. I don't know why the fans no longer work. I read somewhere online that if I unplugged temp sensor the fan should automatically go on constant and they used to but that is no longer the case.

The transmission goes out in whatever gear its in. But I noticed it works a tad longer when the transmission lockup TCS sensor is unplugged.

Need to buy the thermostat.
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Saturday, February 22nd, 2020 AT 12:49 PM
Tiny
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Hi,

If possible, let us see the video. Also, as far as the fan, have you tried running power directly to it to confirm the motor itself is good? Have you checked fuses and relays?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-car-fuse-works

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Have you checked other things that could be causing it to run poorly such as a plugged catalytic converter, fuel pressure and regulator, and so on? Do you still see smoke?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

If I could hear it running now, it may help.

Let me know.

Joe
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Saturday, February 22nd, 2020 AT 5:35 PM
Tiny
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Thanks in advance for the links. I will get to it on the fan troubleshooting first on Tuesday.
Went ahead and ordered the air temperature sensor, IAC valve and thermostat. Should arrive by the 28. Does anybody happen to know if my car has an actual map sensor like pictured below? I got a code for it. Rechecked the engine codes just know and got air temperature code 23, TPS code 22 and code 34 map sensor.
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Saturday, February 22nd, 2020 AT 5:51 PM
Tiny
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Hi,

Let us know. I have to ask, did you start a different link regarding the MAP? Just curious because I just answered one. As far as a the sensors, they both do the same thing but do it differently. One reads the inflow of air (MAF) and the other measures vacuum (MAP). Based on what I have, they are calling it a MAF. I attached a pic below of the code you indicated (34). Take a look. If you did start a different thread, follow the directions I listed there. If not, let me know.

Take care,

Joe
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Saturday, February 22nd, 2020 AT 6:18 PM
Tiny
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Yes, I made that thread too.
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Tuesday, February 25th, 2020 AT 1:30 PM
Tiny
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Should have all parts by Saturday. Ordered MAF, MAP, air intake sensor and thermostat.
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Tuesday, February 25th, 2020 AT 1:31 PM
Tiny
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Let me know what happens or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe
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Tuesday, February 25th, 2020 AT 6:47 PM
Tiny
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Got the IAC, thermostat and air intake sensor. Installed. Fans turn on when I unplug the temp sensor only. I need help troubleshooting the fan problem.

The car turns off at idle after warm up and while getting to red traffic lights. The transmission shifts better. The car bucks.

No check engine lights when the temperature sensor is plugged but the fans wont work. Car stalls at stop lights.
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Thursday, February 27th, 2020 AT 4:28 PM
Tiny
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Moved the TPS a little.
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Thursday, February 27th, 2020 AT 4:33 PM
Tiny
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There should be 3 wires on the TPS. Use an ohm meter and put one probe to ground and pierce each of the 3 wires till you find the one where the voltage changes when you move the throttle. Once you find that wire adjust the TPS with the throttle closed until the voltage reads 5 volts. That is where it should be adjusted to.

Rich
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Thursday, February 27th, 2020 AT 5:11 PM
Tiny
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Okay, will do tomorrow and report back.
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Thursday, February 27th, 2020 AT 7:00 PM
Tiny
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Battery dead on multi-meter. On hold until I get the battery and MAF (next Tuesday).

Ordered the fan relay in the meanwhile(expected Next Wednesday).

Went through the fuse blades last night. Most all lit up and the ones that didn't I pulled and checked if burnt, but they weren't.
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Friday, February 28th, 2020 AT 2:13 PM
Tiny
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Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.
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Monday, March 2nd, 2020 AT 12:39 PM
Tiny
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Set the TPS. Replaced high fan relay. Fans turn on now. Getting intermittent check engine light while driving. I saw that both knock sensor plugs are broken. I glued them on but didn't remove check engine light. Need to check coded again. Car runs good enough. Thanks for the help. Wouldn't of gotten this far without all of guy's help. I had to put like 4 quarts of trans fluid to get it shifting good. I don't know why it needed that much. It still goed out gear when turning sharp either left or right. I need to get it on level ground. Putting a little more fluid may help but that is how I bought it.
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Saturday, March 28th, 2020 AT 12:50 PM

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