My car shut off while driving?

Tiny
HIKARU65
  • MEMBER
  • 2013 HYUNDAI ACCENT
There was a lot of high water and flooding, so my car shut off. Immediately the check engine light went on as well as another, I believe for the exhaust (or something similar). After a minute or so, I turned the key in the ignition and it started again and I was able to get out of the water and the light went off. Now, there is a slight chugging noise and I don't know if its because there's water in the engine. Does it need to drain overnight? Would the check engine light be on if there was water in the engine?
Thank you!
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Wednesday, June 11th, 2014 AT 7:44 PM

34 Replies

Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Try draining the oil if water comes out then stop when oil come out water will come out first. then change oil after about a couple hundred miles. Then if no other problems consider your self very lucky as water absolutely destroys the electronics in the car but to be sure these guides will help us fix the problem.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-change-engine-oil-and-filter

Please run down these guides and report back.
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Thursday, June 12th, 2014 AT 8:24 AM
Tiny
HIKARU65
  • MEMBER
Thank you so much! So if there was actual damage then the check engine light WOULD be on?
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Thursday, June 12th, 2014 AT 8:58 AM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
It could be but there are also other modules that can effect other areas of the car it self like brakes, windows etc. If you start having trouble with something it may be a module is the problem. So wait and see what happens and never ever drive through water moe than tire level deep if you have to go through it.
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Thursday, June 12th, 2014 AT 10:20 AM
Tiny
HIKARU65
  • MEMBER
Would you be able to explain how to drain the oil?
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Thursday, June 12th, 2014 AT 4:27 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Go to our site under how to repair then video then oil change anther are several cars listed there yours will be similar
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Thursday, June 12th, 2014 AT 5:49 PM
Tiny
MANDY92
  • MEMBER
  • 2013 HYUNDAI ACCENT
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 90,000 MILES
Two months ago, my car began shutting off while driving regardless of speed (shut off once at 60 mph and once at 25 mph). Anyway, a test came back that our alternator was bad, so we replaced that and have been fine for two months, until now.

I was driving and the car shuts down and turns back on after a five or so seconds. It is good for a couple of minutes and then shuts off again and stays off for ten minutes. I finally get it started and try to make it home-less than ten minutes away, but it continues to turn off and back on, so I call a tow truck so it will not damage anything. The battery and alternator check out fine.

I researched some stuff on Hyundai forums and apparently this is common with most of their models. I read some people had success replacing their crankshaft position sensor, so we did that last night and no luck. After about two minutes of idling, it shuts off.

What could this possibly be?

-Upon shut off, all lights cut out, car stops running and the brake pedal will eventually stiffen up.
-it sputters.
-It occasionally will not crank at all.
-No constant check engine light-it will come on every once in awhile when it shuts off. Automatically, but it will not stay on for long.
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 11:04 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
There are times like this when a problem crops up that must be physically looked at either at dealer or a mechanic so he can hook up a scanner and see what is exactly going on. Your problem sounds to be electrical so it may be a bad connection at ignition switch or the switch itself. I see not bulletins on this check all electrical connections how ever and if you have a volt meter with you when this happens pop the hood and see if any electoral voltage is at under hood fuse box.
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 11:04 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHALIDDVD
  • MEMBER
  • 2010 HYUNDAI ACCENT
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 25,000 MILES
Engine stoppoing suddenly when fuel gauge in the quarter. After about 15 minutes can be restarted.
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 11:05 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Have the fuel pump checked for draw it may be drawing to many amps and getting hot. fuel cools the pump you may have to wait until this happens to get it checked. THis guide will help us.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 11:05 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ELIEH
  • MEMBER
  • 2009 HYUNDAI ACCENT
  • 1.6L
  • 4 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 103,000 MILES
During recent two weeks, my car has been shutting off four times while driving especially when I decreased the speed. Like when I want to park or I stop to rear back. It started working again after many trials of starting. Also, it does not start after about 5-10 minutes after the car is turned off. Like when I go shopping and it takes 10 minutes and I come back to drive my car again. None of the dashboard warning lights is on. I changed the timing belt just recently. The battery seemed to have no problem and also I took my car for inspection and their computer did not show any codes.
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 11:05 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Welcome to 2CarPros.

Based on the description, it sounds like you may have a crankshaft position sensor going bad. Often times, they will fail when the get hot or warm up. If the car sits for 10 minutes, there is no more air circulating and the sensor will get hotter. Under certain conditions, they will not set a diagnostic trouble code.

Do me a favor, take a look through these links. The first describes the sensor I am referring to, the second discusses symptoms, and the last shows in general how one is replaced.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-crank-shaft-angle-sensor-works

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

If there is no code generated, then what needs done is this. Either a live data scanner needs connected to the system to check for an RPM signal when it won't start or you need to check to see if the ignition has lost spark.

Here is a link showing how to check for spark:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Here are a few links to help with checking for spark.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

__________________________

If it is determine that the sensor is going bad, I attached a pic of the sensor's location to help.

_________________________

Let me know if the symptoms above seem to mirror what you experience. Also, let me know if I can help.

Take care,
Joe
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 11:05 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ELIEH
  • MEMBER
Hello Joe,

Thank you very much for your comprehensive information. I did what you said and I changed the crankshaft position sensor last week. My car up to now has not had any shutting off problem. However, I've got very bad start since I changed it. At first I could start the car after two or three times of trials. But today it did not start at all. Based on my observations, the engine cranks but it cannot start. Do you think the crankshaft position sensor is the culprit?
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 11:05 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Welcome back:

It could be related, but most times a bad sensor will cause issues when the engine is hot. Have you checked the fuel pressure? There could be an issue there. Also, have you checked to see if spark has been lost since it will no longer start?

Here is an easy way to check. See if the engine starts for a couple seconds using starting fluid. If it does, then we know it is a fuel issue. If it doesn't, then we have to recheck for ignition spark.

Since you mentioned the delayed start, I'm questioning if the fuel pump has been going bad and not building enough pressure to start the engine quickly and now has totally failed.

Let me know.

Joe
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 11:05 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MARKUS THE ACCENT OWNER
  • MEMBER
  • 2009 HYUNDAI ACCENT
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 82,000 MILES
The engine shuts down with little or no warning. Until three days ago the 5 or so occurances where in hot weather and in stop and go traffic. The first time I had a problem with the car staying in a middle gear. It was stop and go traffic so I had an opportunity to stop put in park. And try different combination. Although the shifter position was in different spot. 1, 2, d. The movement was laboured and indicated a middle gear of some sort. Higher speeds did not change things and I drove it of the highway. The nearest service center was closed and after a while I decided to drive to my destination. The car drove well after that. Sometime later I had my regular service center check it and they didn't find any problem codes and besides some regualr maintenance. (Oil change and the common warranty issue regarding links) I was on my way. The next occurrence resulted in me towing it from a busy highway to Hyundia service. Tthey advised it was a speed sensor. It was changed under warranty and tranny flush ( my cost) a day later I was rolling again. This summer I had it stop a couple times more. I was in a position to wait a bit and after an hour it started again. Just this past week, in high speed traffic it did it again. I waited it out and unfortunately it didn't start up. The battery drained and I needed to tow it again. The response from the service center is that the diagnostics didn't produce a probelm code. The technician thinks a bit of corrosion on a sensor on the block maybe the problem, but this unproven theory will cost me $500 as the part has not "failed". They boosted the battery and they say its ready to roll. Going to only charge me partially for the test. Considering the circumstances. Yes. Isn't that great? Anyway. Long story short. The engine seems to stop when it its stop and go / or going well in hot weather. Usually it recovers after a period of time. Any ideas? I"m not a mechanic. Just a frustrated hyundia owner hoping not to have to sell car in order to avoid continued hassle.
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 11:05 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
This sounds like a classic crankshaft angle sensor which when they fail will not leave a code but to be sure this guide will help us figure the problem out with diagrams below to show you where the sensor is located so you can check it out.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 11:05 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BIRT2014
  • MEMBER
No one could find out what was wrong with my car (crankshaft sensor) but this post fixed it for me thank you so much whoever you are :)
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 11:05 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MADISONTHOMASA4
  • MEMBER
  • 2009 HYUNDAI ACCENT
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 167,419 MILES
My car will barely go when I try to go and it ll go 5 miles an hour when it says 20 and right after I get gas my car will shut off while I m about to drive or it shakes really bad.
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 11:05 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY1
  • EXPERT
More then likely you have an issue with the purge solenoid being stuck open. This is a pretty common issue when this part fails.

Normally this happens when the fuel tank is topped off or filled when the engine is running. So if you put more fuel in the tank when the pump first shuts off then you are possibly putting fuel into the emission control system and causing this issue.

I would suggest replacing the charcoal canister and purge valve and see if this issue continues.
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 11:05 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CLEFFEL
  • MEMBER
  • 2008 HYUNDAI ACCENT
  • 1.6L
  • 4 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 143,000 MILES
My car stalls and and runs a bit rough after refueling. After a few minutes it runs fine. I've changed purge valve and fuel pump. Still have the problem. Any ideas?
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 11:06 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY1
  • EXPERT
This is a common issue when the evaporative emissions system has raw fuel in it rather than vapor.

Basically this system is designed to take the vapor (hydrocarbons) from the top of the fuel inside the tank and route it to the engine to use as additional fuel rather then venting it to the atmosphere.

This system is only supposed to have vapor in it but when the charcoal canister gets raw fuel in it, it breaks down the charcoal and that damages the purge valve. This allows more vapor and fuel in to the engine then it can handle and the PCM cannot adjust for it so it runs rich. This means there is too much fuel in the system and it runs poor or doesn't start.

Let me know if you have questions and we can go from there. Thanks
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 11:06 AM (Merged)

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