Not starting

Tiny
FEELIE75
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 HYUNDAI SANTA FE
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 155,000 MILES
Soo, here's the facts :)

* car will crank over and over and over, but not combust and start.
* only seems to happen in the morning.
* i.E. After sitting for a while. (If I came home at 9pm and didn't try to start it until 8am)
* AFTER it's started, the car runs FINE. AND it will restart FINE for the rest of the day.

Now, after about 20 minutes of cranking, it WILL eventually start. And this always happens after it starts:
* SQUEAL SQUEAL SQUEAL. Some belt or something squeal loudly for about a minute.
* there IS a smell of burn fuel from my car after failed attempts of starting it.

OH, here's an interesting fact:
* I tried push starting and popping the clutch one morning after 10 minutes of failed cranking. THAT started it.

Side facts:
* I got the started replaced last fall. I suspect the inordinate cranking-over killed the starter so I think this is a side-effect not a cause. I had to push-start my car for 2 months before getting it replaced. Then it died 3 weeks later after I cranked-over for 20 minutes one day. Got it replaced again and have tamed my crank-over durations to
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Sunday, February 8th, 2015 AT 11:42 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Scan for codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent it.
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Monday, February 9th, 2015 AT 7:04 AM
Tiny
FEELIE75
  • MEMBER
Oh hmm hadn't thought about Renting a gauge. Thanks!

The Check Engine light isn't on right now, but it has occasionally come on. The last time I was able to scan the code before it turned off, it returned Misfire Cylinder 1. But the car runs smoothly, but I've heard that's possible with newer cars, they can compensate for bad spark plugs, etc. Who knows.

The check light isn't on anymore, it turns off after a few days by itself.

I'll try to find a gauge today!
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Monday, February 9th, 2015 AT 12:00 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Excuse me for sticking my nose in here, but you falling for a common misconception about the Check Engine light. It doesn't have to be on to read fault codes. In fact, there's well over 2000 potential codes, and only about half of them turn the Check Engine light on. Those are the codes that refer to something the could adversely affect emissions.

You can get an idea of the severity of a code by how the check Engine light acts. If the light turns on for a minor problem, it could turn off while you're driving if it's an intermittent problem and it goes away for a while. (The fault code stays in memory). If it's more serious but the problem goes away while you're driving, the light will stay on until you turn the ignition switch off and restart the engine. Then it won't turn on again until the problem occurs again. For even more serious problems that go away, the light will stay on any time the engine is running. The most serious is when the light is flashing. That means stop the engine right away because too much raw fuel is going into the exhaust where it will overheat and damage the catalytic converter.

Regardless of how the light acts, when a fault code is set, it stays in memory for a specific number of engine starts, or until it is erased with a scanner or by disconnecting the battery. The most important thing with intermittent problems is to read and record any codes before doing anything that will erase them because you don't want to lose that valuable information.

Hi Hmac300!
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Tuesday, February 10th, 2015 AT 4:56 PM

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