Engine is not running?

Tiny
TRUIE13
  • MEMBER
  • 2012 HYUNDAI SANTA FE
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 72,000 MILES
My Santa Fe began to intermittently have a no start and not turn over. All you hear was a fast clicking sound but whenever we jump started it would start right up. Had proper voltage coming from battery and alternator was charging. It got worse so we replaced the battery. After replacing battery car would turn over but not start. Have spark and fuel and after replacing battery the check engine light came on with codes 223 365 445 and 2106. Took it to the dealer and they could not start it so they did a compression and leak down test. They said the engine compression is too low to start and # one cylinder is leaking. Also believe something is definitely wrong within the electrical but can not diagnose it without it running. Compression dry test and firing order #1/150 #3/160 #4/155 #2/130. The car was running perfectly fine till now. What is the next procedure?
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Sunday, February 28th, 2016 AT 11:00 AM

41 Replies

Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
These guides can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

also try resetting security system this guide will help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Sunday, February 28th, 2016 AT 11:45 AM
Tiny
TRUIE13
  • MEMBER
Hi thank you for your response as I was trying to figure out how to reset the security system I found a shorted fuse in engine compartment. Sensor (3) 15 amp.I am able to start the car but shut it down because of a loud tapping sound. Can't tell if it's coming from cylinder head or pistons but it don't sound good at all. As far as I can tell the sound is closest to cylinder #1 or #3. Have the following codes each is listed twice PO223, P2106 and PO365. It never made any tapping sound before and it's so loud I shut the engine down. This model has two camshaft sensors exhaust and intake. The throttle position sensor or throttle control actuator?
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Sunday, February 28th, 2016 AT 6:50 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
The first codeand 2106 may be related it may have one of the things wrong in pic or you have a cam problem like timing chain and noise so have that looked at it may have jumped time. The 365 may be from same thing or the gas pedal/ or throttle body are bad. Try cleaning throttle plate on both sides and iac hole with choke cleaner it may fix it but will still show until it is erased with a scanner. With the compression on #2 it's not with in 20% so it may have a bent valve especially if timing chain/belt jumped or slipped.
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Monday, February 29th, 2016 AT 7:12 AM
Tiny
TRUIE13
  • MEMBER
Wow Thank You Very Much I will check throttle body and clean. I will have the timing looked at along with camshaft and intake/exhaust valves.
Thanks
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Monday, February 29th, 2016 AT 10:16 AM
Tiny
TRUIE13
  • MEMBER
Update. I cleaned the throttle body and had a mechanic look at the car. We retested compression cold start and 160 on all four cylinders since replacing blown fuse. Mechanic suspects the variable valve timing could be causing the noise racket and suggested replacing the VVT Solenoid or Hyundai calls it a actuator. I'm going to test the one on intake side for resistance. If out of range I will go ahead and replace it. I can only pray that the timing didn't get messed up and have to realign everything and valve adjustment. Pulled valve cover off and looked at one V.V.T solenoid/actuator. It had some gunk but not bad. Screens looked good. Tested Camshaft sensor bank 1 and 2 voltage from computer. Close to 12 V but battery is getting low again right at 12 volts 11.95. Is it possible to test camshaft sensor T.P.S sensor/actuator with ignition on engine not running? Was able to identify Pin # And wire color for both. Please help
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Monday, February 29th, 2016 AT 10:01 PM
Tiny
TRUIE13
  • MEMBER
I have some good news the super loud type writing noise stopped for now. I slowly pulled out of drive way to feel the noise vibration. My guts wee dragging on the road behind me but after going around the block they caught up. Went ahead and bought oil control valve solenoid or Engine Variable Valve Solenoid exhaust side. And was down to two codes po223 and p2106 after I worked on ETC actuator. And Throttle position sensor and installed the part. Now have codes 223 2106 365 2110 and 2119. Test the power to T P S #1 and #2 Have 4.0 5.0 volts and good signal too. I would greatly appreciate your help with correcting the no start from hell.
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Thursday, March 3rd, 2016 AT 12:44 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
223 is a gas pedal code and you should have 4.9v not 5.0 365 is cam position sensor on bank 1 not solenoid. Cause you have a 223 and 2106 codes this may be a bad ecm so check with dealer as I think Hyundai warranties until 100k the remaining codes poin to the same thing. Besides emission stuff is automatically warrantied to 80k
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Thursday, March 3rd, 2016 AT 1:15 PM
Tiny
TRUIE13
  • MEMBER
Hey thank you for your time in helping us with the Santa Fe. We suspected it might be the Engine Control Module. All these codes. It has troubled from us from the first day when these intermittent no starts began there was no warning no Mil light, It came on only after replacing the battery. I had a mechanic look at it too. He also suspected the computer. I'm taking it back to the dealer tonight.
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Friday, March 4th, 2016 AT 5:13 PM
Tiny
TRUIE13
  • MEMBER
Hi I have no clue as to how and why but when it began our Santa Fe was running fine and showed no signs of trouble. What would cause intermittent no starts/no crank, replace battery, no start/no crank now with a check engine mil. We take it to Hyundai Service dept who tells me they could not properly diagnose the no start with engine not running, perform compression/leak down tests with active codes 223 445 2106. Tow the car home find a blown fuse related to one set of codes P0445. I'm able to start the engine but have a loud tapping noise. Recheck compression and have 160 psi on all four. Test drive the car noise goes away after driving 1 mile up to 65 mph. Park it have two codes 223 and 2106. Next day start engine have hesitation in engine power and idle and a total of 11 codes. With the addition of the two codes mentioned my code reader showed 2009, 2110, 2119, and 365 twice. P2110 is also a code listed in a 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.4 T.S.B that pertains to the ETC relearning set values. Take it back to dealer. Now we have active codes P0200A, P0222, P2106 and the Hyundai mechanic tells me they will need to replace the intake manifold and ETC body. How all of this came about but it's confusing to me why the check engine light did not come on from the moment the intermittent no start began? Old battery had good voltage at cold start and alternator was charging. The starter wasn't acting up either. The blown relay fuse was a sensor fuse for Injectors #1 - #4, canister close valve, canister purge control solenoid valve, oil control valve 1/2 exhaust/intake and variable intake manifold valve #1/2 The 5 year 60 warranty has expired and we are the 3rd owners the only warranty that still applies to the car is the 8/80 federal that only covers PCM, Catalaytic converter and 0BD2 device. The California emissions 7/70 does not apply because car has 71.000. My question to you sir is this WTF happened here? Is it possible to consider a computer malfunction because if there was a mechanical problem with air intake or the E T C why didn't ECM/PCM pick up on this?
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Sunday, March 6th, 2016 AT 6:56 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Ecm's can't do everything a weak battery causes all kinds of problems have you reset security system since battery change? Your canister purge valve was probably the reason the fuse blew as they take in a lot of dirt due to where they are located by the tank. I do not know what ahape your vehicle is in there is a tsb that deals with a knocking noise and to replace oil filter with genuine Hyundai filter. Your noise may be something wrong with the engine which I can't hear. And intake may have cracked or large vacuum leak causing problem.
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Monday, March 7th, 2016 AT 7:12 AM
Tiny
2CARPROS-ARCHIVES
  • MEMBER
  • 2012 HYUNDAI SANTA FE
  • 7,000 MILES
Once my car was not able to start due to winter cold and may be oil got freezes as per the Hyundai technician. He tried to start many times but failed it cranks over and over but doesn't run?
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 1:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
This sounds like a fuel pump or the crankshaft angels sensor has gone out. When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 1:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SLAUGH009
  • MEMBER
The guide helped me find out my fuel pump went out, thanks for he help this site rocks!
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 1:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ACCORD GUY
  • MEMBER
  • 2010 HYUNDAI SANTA FE
  • 6 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 204,000 MILES
I have another question about my other vehicle. Its a 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe. Bought it in 2015 at 143,000km (88,856 miles) I'm the 2nd owner. It now has 204,000km (126,760 miles). Since day 1 I've had problems every now and then of it turning over but not starting. Replaced the ignition column which they say is common with these SUVs.
Still been having the same issue. They checked the keys and those are fine.I had the car just completely die on me and thankfully that was just an alternator a few years ago.
No codes on it and no other explanations from anyone.
The mechanic says he needs to duplicate what is happening to see what the issue is.
Any advice?
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 1:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi and thanks for using 2carpros.com

Cranking and not starting can be caused by several things. However, the idea that it is not showing any trouble codes leads me to believe it could be related to the crankshaft position sensor. The sensor is based on engine speed. Therefore, if the engine isn't running, it may not set a trouble code. Take a look through this link:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

Here is a link that shows in general how one is replaced.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

The technician you mentioned is basically right. Without the symptom, it becomes a guessing game. However, as I said, this is my first suspect. Here is another link that discusses crank but no start conditions.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

If you suspect the crankshaft position sensor is the problem, here are the specific directions for replacement.

Removal

1. Turn the ignition switch OFF and disconnect the battery negative (-) cable.
2. Remove the air cleaner assembly .
3. Disconnect the crankshaft position sensor connector (A).
4. Remove the installation bolt (B), and then vertically remove the sensor from the transaxle housing.

See Pic 1

Installation

CAUTION:
- Install the component with the specified torques.
- Note that internal damage may occur when the component is dropped. If the component has been dropped, inspect before installing.

CAUTION:
- Apply the engine oil to the O-ring.

CAUTION:
- Insert the sensor in the installation hole and be careful not to damage when installation.

1. Installation is reverse of removal.

Crankshaft position sensor installation bolt:
6.9 - 9.8 N.m (0.7 - 1.0 kgf.m, 5.1 - 7.2 lb-ft)

Picture 2 shows its location.

Let me know if this helps. Also, if you have other questions, feel free to ask.

Take care,
Joe

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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 1:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ACCORD GUY
  • MEMBER
Thank you for your answer and being very descriptive and informative I truly do appreciate that very much. I've been having issues with this Santa Fe and I'm glad that you've given me another possibility other than the same' ol excuse or answer.

Thanks again
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 1:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
I just hope it helps. Let me know if you have other questions or need help.

Take care,
Joe
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 1:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ACCORD GUY
  • MEMBER
I will thanks. Its basically always a waiting game for it to happen again because its usually months in between incidents happening.
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 1:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
No problem. Regardless of how long it takes, I'll keep my eyes open for your response.

Take care,
Joe
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 1:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ACCORD GUY
  • MEMBER
Hi Joe,
I've got a 2010 Santa Fe that was cranking but not starting from time to time you mentioned the crankshaft position sensor.
I haven't done anything yet and it has happened a few more times but eventually starts.
Since then I have (2 different times) I have turned the key and heard a click and nothing else. I checked the battery and its fine, radio, interior lights, dashboard all light up properly. The 1st time I kept trying and after a day and a half it started up like it was fine.
Today was the 2nd time and I've tried it a bunch of times and it hasn't started yet.
What are your thoughts?

Thanks

Chris
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 1:47 PM (Merged)

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