No spark

Tiny
JAGUAR52
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 NISSAN ALTIMA
I have changed the crank sensor still no spark what am I missing to check? I love this site!
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Friday, August 7th, 2009 AT 4:46 PM

27 Replies

Tiny
KEN
  • ADMIN
There is a ECM relay and a couple of fuses that goes bad in these cars, here is a guide on how test for the problem and a wiring diagram. Also see if the injectors have pulse letting you know the problem may be on the amplification side of the ignition system.

Here are the guides.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Please run some tests and get back to us so we can continue helping you.

Best, Ken

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Friday, February 24th, 2017 AT 3:47 PM
Tiny
DEUEL
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 NISSAN ALTIMA
My car was running fine then one day it would not start. So I checked the fuel pump and it works fine so then I checked for spark and found none. I found out this can be caused by the crank position sensor. So I replaced it. I still have no spark. What else can I check? Is there a controller someplace that has failed or some other cause I don't even know to look for? I don't have a code reader and cant really afford one on top of buying parts. Thank you very much for your help.
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+21
Friday, February 24th, 2017 AT 3:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Check and test the ignition control relay if okay its coming from the computer
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Friday, February 24th, 2017 AT 3:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MATTSR
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 NISSAN ALTIMA
  • 2.5L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 180 MILES
Hi, recently I had to replace the coil and spark plug on the third cylinder but now I am not getting any spark its getting fuel and compression just no fire. I started the car and removed the connectors on one, two and four which reduced the rpm's right away. When I removed the plug on the third cylinder there was no change, but the plug was drenched with fuel. I do not know what to look for next except the connector itself maybe shorted out.
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Friday, February 24th, 2017 AT 3:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
With misfires it is best to have a mechanic do these as you can end up dumping a lot of money and still have problem. He can scan for codes. If you like check for a vacuum leak and check compression on the offending cylinder.
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Friday, February 24th, 2017 AT 3:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN
  • ADMIN
Hello, if I may butt in here,

You could have an ignition coil driver inside the computer that has failed, check for coil pulse to confirm here is a guide that can help you.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Please let us know what you find so it will help others.

Best, Ken
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Friday, February 24th, 2017 AT 3:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TOM TWO
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 NISSAN ALTIMA
Good Day
WE just removed the engine and had it rebuilt we reinstalled the engine with many new parts, mounts axles, clutch, spark plugs, etc. We got all back together and went to fire it up and no spark we double checked every thing. It has fuel the timing is right on and still no spark.

Can you help
Thanks
Tom
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Tuesday, February 19th, 2019 AT 6:17 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FIXITMR
  • MEMBER
Try reading this guide, it will help narrow down what the problem is

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Attached below is the wiring diagram for your ignition system
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Tuesday, February 19th, 2019 AT 6:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CHARKEY
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 NISSAN ALTIMA
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 126,000 MILES
Nissan altima. No spark. No 180 degree signal from distributor. 12v, ground and 1 degree signal are ok
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Tuesday, February 19th, 2019 AT 6:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
No signal from the 180 degree test indicates the CMP is faulty.
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Tuesday, February 19th, 2019 AT 6:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DARRENORTEGO22
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 NISSAN ALTIMA
  • 160,000 MILES
Hey guys, I'm going to try and be as descriptive as possible. About 6 months ago a bought a 93 nissian altima for dirt track racing, I am not a car guy but bought it cause I really wanna learn. The current engine that was I'm the car was blown but the guy gave me a second engine that wasn't. I had help and replaced the engine and go the car to start turning over but no spark was coming out. My father in law told me check all fuses spark plug wires etc still nothing. Again I asked my father in law he said I could run a wire directly from the battery to the positive on the coil I did so and got spark but only while I rubbed the wire against the battery terminal. Me being the genius I am thought hey maybe I can do the same thing to the negative terminal. The first time I turned the key it did infact get juice no start I hit the key a second time then the engine made sort of a whine down sound and now will no longer start I am lost and need some direction please help
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Tuesday, February 19th, 2019 AT 6:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
http://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

check above link for more information.
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Tuesday, February 19th, 2019 AT 6:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CEMUSKY
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 NISSAN ALTIMA
Electrical problem
1994 Nissan Altima 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 190k miles

I have a high mileage nissan altima. I have good spark out of the coil, nothing out of the distributor. I just installed a rebuilt distributor this morning and still no spark. I had the power transistor tested at the auto parts store and it is good. I have checked for spark out of all four plug wires and I doubt all wires would go bad at the exact same time.

Please advise.
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Tuesday, February 19th, 2019 AT 6:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BLACKOP555
  • EXPERT
I would check the rotor and the cap first, if those are good check out the ignition control module and the pick up coil in the distributor.

Before messing with the pick up coil, make sure the rotor is turning when the vehicle is cranking.
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-1
Tuesday, February 19th, 2019 AT 6:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DOUGANDRHYS
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 NISSAN ALTIMA
Engine Mechanical problem
1995 Nissan Altima 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

Hi guys,
My son was given a car by his uncle. It hasn't been driven for a year and it had stopped working at that time. It was thought that the problem was the fuel pump so we changed that and the fuel filter out today and it still will not start.
On further inspection, it was found to have no spark and oil was found in the spark plug cylinder which is furthest from the distributor. I did notice a small crack in the distributor cap, could this be the problem? Or could it be the ignition coil?
Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
Doug
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Tuesday, February 19th, 2019 AT 6:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, coil's resistances, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it.
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Tuesday, February 19th, 2019 AT 6:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DELTAFAN
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 NISSAN ALTIMA
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 140,000 MILES
Does the computer send ground to the distributor for it to produce spark?
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Tuesday, February 19th, 2019 AT 6:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
If equipped with distributor, the distributor itself self produces sparks.
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Tuesday, February 19th, 2019 AT 6:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TMYES0208
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 NISSAN ALTIMA
Electrical problem
1995 Nissan Altima 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 60k miles

hey guys.A buddy of mine has been trying to get my future car fixed but ran into a problem with the engine not getting an sparks.

This is what info. He has given me:

his electricl tests/codes: 1320 and 1605

he knows that 1605 is an ignition failure but not sure why. Doesnt knowwhat 1320 means.

Otherwise everything has checked fine until it reaches the engine.

Please help!
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Tuesday, February 19th, 2019 AT 6:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ZACKMAN
  • MEMBER
You got it backward.

P1320 Ignition Signal
P1605 A/T Diagnostic Communication Line

DTC P1320 - IGNITION SIGNAL
1. Check Ground Circuit
Turn ignition switch to OFF position. Disconnect power transistor harness connector. See Fig.
36. Using an ohmmeter, check continuity between power transistor harness connector terminal
"h" (Black wire) and ground. See Fig. 37. If no continuity exists, repair open in Black wire. If
continuity exists, disconnect ignition coil harness connector, check continuity between power
transistor harness connector terminal "i" and ignition coil harness connector terminal "b" (Green
wire). If no continuity exists, repair open in Green wire. If continuity exists, go to next step.
2. Check Power Supply
Turn ignition switch to ON position. Using a voltmeter, measure voltage between ignition coil
harness connector terminal "a" (Black/Red wire) and ground. See Fig. 39. If battery voltage does
not exist, repair fault in Black/Red wire as required. If battery voltage exists, go to next step.
3. Check Power Transistor Input Signal Circuit
Turn ignition switch to OFF position. Disconnect ECM harness connector. See Fig. 3. Using an
ohmmeter, check for continuity between ECM harness connector terminal No. 1 and power
transistor harness connector terminal "g" (White wire). See Fig. 4 and Fig. 37. If no continuity
exists, repair open in White wire as required. If continuity exists, inspect ignition coil and power
transistor. See the SYSTEM/COMPONENT TESTS article. Replace ignition coil and/or power
transistor as required.
4. Check Resistor Input Signal Circuit
Turn engine off. Disconnect ignition coil harness connector. See Fig. 38. Strip tape covering
resistor/condenser. Disconnect ECM harness connector. See Fig. 3. Using an ohmmeter, check
continuity between resistor/condenser harness connector terminal "c" and ignition coil harness
connector terminal "b" (Green wire). See Fig. 39 and Fig. 40. If no continuity exists, repair open
in Green wire. If continuity exists, go to next step.
5. Check continuity between resistor/condenser harness connector terminal "d" and ECM harness
connector terminal No. 2 (Yellow/Red wire). See Fig. 4 and Fig. 40. If no continuity exists,
repair open in Yellow/Red wire. If continuity exists, go to next step.
6. Check Component
Inspect resistor/condenser. Measure resistance across resistor/condenser terminals. Resistance
should be 2200 ohms. Replace resistor/condenser if necessary and perform FINAL CHECK.

DTC P1605 - AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION (A/T) CONTROL
1. Check Input Signal Circuit
Turn ignition switch to OFF position. Disconnect ECM and A/T control unit harness connectors.
See Fig. 3 and Fig. 45. Using an ohmmeter, check continuity between ECM harness connector
terminal No. 7 and A/T control unit harness connector terminal No. 45 (Green/Orange wire). See
Fig. 4 and Fig. 46. If no continuity exists, repair open in Green/Orange wire as required. If
continuity exists, go to next step.
2. Disconnect and reconnect harness connectors in circuit and perform FINAL CHECK.
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Tuesday, February 19th, 2019 AT 6:18 PM (Merged)

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