DOOR LOCKS UP AND DOWN AND THEN DON'T WORK?

Thanks for the quick reply.

I have attached a couple of pictures of the damage.

If I purchase the lock and door handle assembly at the GMC dealer is relatively easy to install in the door? I don't know exactly what the theives break when they stick the screw driver into the lock cylinder.

Great Service!

Thank you for your help. I changed fuse block and all relay. So now its all fixed. Basically I didnt get power to rear unlock from fuse block.
Thank you very much.

Remote door lock unlocks and locks driver side door sometimes and always locks and unlocks passenger side door. Is there a fix for this problem. Thank You, Fray

My truck is the k3500(old style). Since I bought it, the electric mirrors don’t work, and the driver side door lock won’t operate from the door switch, and the driver window won’t go up or down at all. The windows for all other doors besides the drivers, go up and down fine from the drivers side controls. The locks work 80% time with the remote key FOB, but 20% of the time you can hear the locks try to lock/unlock, but they won’t fully lock/unlock. Almost like they are getting half power. I changed the door switch cluster, the door actuator, the window motor/regulator, and the mirror switch as well. No effect. I saw the posts about bad grounds and bad wiring through the door hinge area. I am getting 12v on both terminals at the window motor. If I jump 12v on one side and ground the other side it operates. So I ran all new ground wires from all the black wires in the door wiring harness back to a ground bolt on the body. Didn’t help
Also there was part of the door harness wiring that had its own plug connector in the body cavity behind the hood release arm that was totally corroded on almost all the terminals. So I cut out the plug and hard wired them (orange, white, black, gray, lt's blue, brown), this is also where I took the black wire and grounded it to the body.
Lastly the courtesy/dome lights don’t work and the ctsy fuse pops as soon as you put it in the fuse panel at the left side of the dash. Without the fuse in, one side is grounded, one side has constant 12v.
I have spent more hours than I care to count trying to figure this out.

I have both a multi meter and a voltage probe/pen. I actually pulled out the entire wiring harness from the door and just inside the wall behind the hood latch handle. Inspected and only found one suspected wire. It was a white one from the bottom plug on the window/door controls. It didn’t help though. Reinstalled the whole harness and no change at all. Just checked a minute ago and there was also no 12v on the orange wire coming in. I do have 12v on the yellow. Both “circuit breakers” in the little panel with fuses at left side dash have continuity. And I did spray white grease on the rods but no effect. They are all are weak “evenly” when it doesn’t want to work. When it does, they all open and close “strong”. Also this is a Crew cab 4 door.
Really appreciate any help!

Voltage is not present on either side where the larger 30a metal fuse goes for the locks at the fuse panel on the left side of the dash.
Voltage is 12.19 for the yellow wire at the plug for the driver window/door controls.

A little background.

The guy who owned this before me was disabled and had some sort of chair lift in the bed. It was wired in super hokie under the dash and behind the hood latch. There was a loose red wire that came from the battery and didn’t seem to go anywhere so I pulled it out, and there was wiring that went to nowhere with odd relays and a self mounted switch on the dash. I pulled out all the loose wiring I could find that didn’t seem to go anywhere.
So I just doubled checked and it’s just the opposite what I thought. The breaker marked A is on top and the fuse diagram shows it as the pwr acc door locks. It has the 12.19 volts I was getting. The wires coming off the back of it are a thicker red and smaller orange. The breaker below it is breaker B and it is marked as the pwr acc window. It has no voltage on either side and has a thicker brown looking wire and a yellow coming off the back. The red wire is the one I’m getting 12.19v coming in.

And to clarify further. I’m getting 12.19v on the yellow wire at the window/door controls and none on the orange. It’s like they were switched somewhere.

So I’m pulling these fuse/breakers out as I test the sockets where they plug into. I don’t see any way to test them while they are plugged in.
So I pulled the 30a pwr accy A breaker out and jumped from Red to orange just like the breaker itself would do. Still no power on the orange wire at the door harness for the window/door locks. The breaker should be fine. I assume it goes to the convenience center after that. And then to the wiring harness for the drivers door? Seems like something is acting up at the convenience center possibly?

Thanks for your help Roy. I want to make sure we are understanding each other. There is power going through the 30a A breaker on top for the pwr accy that goes to the door locks. I even unscrewed the fuse block so I could test the voltage on the back with the breaker in it. Power Goes thru it, in from the red and goes out the orange wire, which I assume heads to the convenience center. After that there are at least a dozen orange wires that come out of it and can’t tell which one is which. Where I can test the orange wire before it goes into the door wiring harness. There is no voltage on it. This is testing behind the hood latch handle, kind of inside the wall cavity. Again, Before it goes into the door harness.

Those diagrams should be super helpful! Thanks again. I’ll let you know how it goes.