DOOR LOCKS UP AND DOWN AND THEN DON'T WORK?

Tiny
HVACTECH7
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So I’ve got power on the orange wire from A7 on the fuse block all the way to D3 on the front of the convenience center. Does the convenience center come out? Is it difficult? I assume C is where the orange comes out of the back and goes to the door harness?
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Saturday, May 23rd, 2020 AT 9:51 AM (Merged)
Tiny
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Correct.

Yes, it does. This might be the one that is held in by clips or tabs.

You would need a thin flat blade screw driver to depress the tabs. They should be on the corners.

Roy

REMOVAL PROCEDURE

CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the wiring connectors at the front of the convenience center.
Label the wires for reassembly.
3. Disconnect the convenience center from the bulkhead connector.
3.1. Disengage the tabs at the upper left and lower right posts.
3.2. The tabs clip into the bulkhead connector and these tabs separate the bulkhead connector from the convenience center.
4. Disconnect the wiring connectors from the rear of the convenience center.
Label the connectors for reassembly.
5. Remove the convenience center from the vehicle.

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the convenience center into the vehicle.
2. Connect the wiring connectors to the rear of the convenience center in the original locations.
3. Connect the convenience center to the bulkhead connector.
Engage the post tabs of the convenience center to the bulkhead connector.
4. Connect the wiring connectors to the front of the convenience center in the original locations.
5. Connect the negative battery cable.
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Saturday, May 23rd, 2020 AT 9:51 AM (Merged)
Tiny
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Started to try and pull out the convenience center but even after lifting the tabs, it felt like I was going to break it pulling it out. I seriously used some force and it just pulled on the firewall. So I decided not to risk it and I run a jumper wire from D3 orange wire on the front plug of the CC to where the orange wire is behind the hood latch handle, before it goes into the door. This not only made the locks work again, but also the electric seats too! I couldn’t have done any of it without your help Roy. The schematic/diagrams were absolutely invaluable! Thank you!
The drivers window still won’t work. I’ve got power coming out of the fuse block thru the yellow wire all the way to the drivers window switch. I’m still getting 12v on both wires to the window motor. All 3 of the other windows work fine from the driver side controls. Just not the drivers window.
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Saturday, May 23rd, 2020 AT 9:51 AM (Merged)
Tiny
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Okay, this sounds like the window motor is not working.

Try tapping it with a hammer and see if the motor starts working.

When you command up or down, do you have power on both wires from the motor? If you do, then the motor is not grounding through the switch.

Did you replace the switch?

Roy
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Saturday, May 23rd, 2020 AT 9:51 AM (Merged)
Tiny
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The motor and even regulator were just replaced. Absolutely seems like ground is not going through the switch to me as well. The switch is brand new too though. I have a feeling it may be faulty. Any easy check for it?
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Saturday, May 23rd, 2020 AT 9:51 AM (Merged)
Tiny
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No, there is not.

Yes, the switch is the ground. I would get another switch and try it.

Roy
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Saturday, May 23rd, 2020 AT 9:51 AM (Merged)
Tiny
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It was a bad switch. My fault for buying the cheapest one I could find online. I’ve been assuming it was fine and looking at everything else. That fixed the window. The orange wire needing to bypass the convenience center fixed the locks. And more! Your guidance and the schematics were extremely helpful Roy! Thank you! Do you work for the site or are you just a member?
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Saturday, May 23rd, 2020 AT 9:51 AM (Merged)
Tiny
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I am one of the experts. We all have other jobs as well but we also enjoy helping people as well.

Thank you for your kind words.

Roy
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Saturday, May 23rd, 2020 AT 9:51 AM (Merged)

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