Intermittent crank, no start

Tiny
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I bought a fuel pressure tester. While key on it is 50 then when the pump stops it drops to 42 in video, holds 42 for 5 minutes but no start today. Or the whole problem could be the catalytic convertor, lol.
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Monday, December 7th, 2020 AT 1:21 PM
Tiny
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Okay, fuel pressure is good.

Pressure
48 - 55 psi

Unbolt the head pipe from the exhaust manifold and see if it starts easily. If it is a clogged catalytic converter, it will start right up.

Roy
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Monday, December 7th, 2020 AT 1:25 PM
Tiny
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Sorry Roy. Look at the picture I was making a joke because the cat was under the hood helping out.
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Monday, December 7th, 2020 AT 1:31 PM
Tiny
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Cute. Love that picture.

Roy
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Monday, December 7th, 2020 AT 1:33 PM
Tiny
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So again I have a crank no start situation. The video shows it "trying" to start with audio. I have to get this fixed ASAP. The bitter cold is about to drop on me. Normally this time of year there's 2-3 feet of snow and 20 degree temperatures.
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Monday, December 7th, 2020 AT 3:02 PM
Tiny
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Okay, I attached the wiring diagram for the starting system.

We need to do some testing at the crank relay with a voltmeter.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Let me know when you are ready.

Roy

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Monday, December 7th, 2020 AT 3:17 PM
Tiny
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To clarify it does crank but doesn't start. Today. The video shows it cranking.
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Monday, December 7th, 2020 AT 9:27 PM
Tiny
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I would do a compression test. It does sound a bit off cranking.

You should have around 140-150.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Roy
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Tuesday, December 8th, 2020 AT 4:27 AM
Tiny
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12/11/20 I did not retrieve my compression tester yet. Checked the fluids. 1 quart oil and some power steering fluid. It started fairly normal. Let it run until it got to temperature shut it off then started right back up. Revved rpm up to 3,000 it seemed very responsive, smooth idle. I decide to take it for a short drive. It seemed fine until the shift. At every shift during acceleration there was a slight stumble or cough.
Normal on deceleration. Got back to the driveway shut it off started up fine.
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Friday, December 11th, 2020 AT 3:24 PM
Tiny
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Okay, let me know when you have the compression results.

Roy
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Friday, December 11th, 2020 AT 4:07 PM
Tiny
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Results from compression test.
1- 140
2- 150
3- 145
4- 155
5- 142
6- 152
With fuel and spark disabled.
Began the day with crank no start, cleaned ACDelco 41-101 Professional Iridium Spark Plugs put everything back together. Cleaned 2 body grounds and it started like it should. I just noticed it has been driven 4,584 miles between April 1999 and Jan 2021. Current mileage 131,754.
I will find/clean the other grounds and order new plugs.
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Tuesday, January 19th, 2021 AT 2:50 PM
Tiny
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Keep me updated.

Roy
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Tuesday, January 19th, 2021 AT 3:06 PM
Tiny
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Continued tracing the wire harness and found 7 total grounds and one that I think is a ground and was unattached tucked under the water pump bracket. Pic 1. Negative battery terminal bolt had rust on the threads. After reading another post here about the harness that goes under the battery, I took that apart and it looked good until I got to where it sneaks around the back side of the radiator fill neck. 4 cut wires from the rad cap. I plan on cutting out and soldering new wire. I will also dig up a wiring diagram to make sure that disconnected wire was a ground before reconnecting the battery. As an extra added bonus, since the inspection expired they would not let me renew the registration.
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Tuesday, January 26th, 2021 AT 9:29 AM
Tiny
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Where did the cut wires end up?

Can you post the picture of the cut wires?

Roy
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Tuesday, January 26th, 2021 AT 9:41 AM
Tiny
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The insulation was cut by the radiator cap. (Click the pics to enlarge) Possibly making an electrical connection with the cap. The harness tucks between the radiator and radiator support. Wrapped with dry rotted electrical tape (no wire loom).
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Tuesday, January 26th, 2021 AT 11:09 AM
Tiny
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I would cut out the corroded wires and replace them with new wires. Solder and shrink wrap the connections.

Roy
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Tuesday, January 26th, 2021 AT 11:13 AM
Tiny
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The wire shown here is a ground? I found it tucked under the bracket not attached to anything. Black with white stripe. It comes out of the harness with fuel injectors. When I dig through my nuts i'll relocate it to a stud.
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Wednesday, January 27th, 2021 AT 8:11 AM
Tiny
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Correct. It is a ground.

Roy
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Wednesday, January 27th, 2021 AT 8:34 AM
Tiny
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I had a day where I could get the wires cut, spliced soldered with heat shrink. It started and ran normal. Cranking was even better sounding. A week later February 6 as I was going to the bail box It again cranked over with no start. It sat until February 16th reached in and it started like there was nothing wrong. Snow just keeps coming.
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Thursday, February 18th, 2021 AT 4:18 PM
Tiny
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This is a tough one to help from here since I cannot see it, touch it or test it.

You will need some outside help from someone for this one.

Roy
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Friday, February 19th, 2021 AT 3:11 AM

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