Okay, let's figure this out. First, I attached the starter circuit wiring schematic below so that you have a reference. I had to cut the pic in half to make it readable, but I did overlap them.
See if the vehicle will start if you place it in neutral. Do this first before proceeding to the following tests. If it does, let me know.
On the schematic, I highlighted the relevant wiring. Power from the battery goes through two fuses to the ignition switch. I suspect those are okay if the lights turn on. So, I need you to jump to the starter cut relay. This is what will actuate the starter motor.
At the relay, there are four pins. Two are for the primary side and two for the secondary. When you turn the key to the start position, power from the switch travels to two pins where the relay presses in. The primary side on the relay itself will indicate numbers, 85 and 86. One of the two will receive power. Confirm that for me.
The secondary side of the relay will have two numbers as well, 30 and 87. One of the two will get power when the key is in the start position. Check for that as well.
I'm sorry I can't tell you the specific pin will get power because the manufacturers change things and when testing, you can't assume one will always be the one to check.
Now, if you find both have power, then I need you to check the primary side opposite pin for continuity to ground when the key is in the start position. This will be either pin 85 or 86 (the opposite one with power). If it has power, then we need to check the trigger wire at the starter motor.
At the starter, there will be a smaller gauge black wire with a white tracer. With the key in the start position, check for power at that wire. The key needs to be in the start position; otherwise, it won't have power.
Here is a link you may find helpful as well, it covers testing a relay circuit:
Let me know what you find.
See pics below.
Images (Click to make bigger)
Friday, May 19th, 2023 AT 8:48 PM