Will not accelerate

The transmission is good it is something in the throttle.

I ended up servicing the throttle body per the instruction in the guide and I didnt think it would work but it did, Thanks you so much! I love this site.

My car loses power while driving; the lights go out, but the car does not cut off. After a few minutes it restores and run as good as new. If I put the car in park the rpm's roars up and the car is getting gas, but in drive it acts like its not getting gas. The console light goes out, the brake and battery light comes on while in this state.

I have a 2002 Nissan Altima with the 3.5L engine. It has 75,000 miles. Yesterday it wouldn't start because the battery was dead. I tried charging it but it didn't help. I replaced the battery but now the car will not accelerate when you push on the gas pedal. It idles perfectly and does not throw any error codes when check by an OBDII code reader. If you accelerate within one second after it starts it will surge, idle, surge, idle and then settle into idle. After that nothing happens when you push the accelerator. Does anyone know what is wrong? Is this something I can repair or reset on the car myself? Thanks for your help.
P.S. I may have posted this already. If so, I apologize for double posting it. Thanks once again.

Thanks, Jack.
All the fuses are okay so I let it set overnight. When I started it this morning the accelerator worked like it is supposed to. I drove it and at first it surged but then it settled down and drove correctly. I drove it about 5 miles with no problems. For no reason that I could see it started acting up again. It would surge and then nothing would happen. While it was surging the car would move. When it wouldn't the car would coast. When I checked it with a code reader it gave me a P0733 code. I know what the code means but don't know what causes it. Could this be caused by a failing fuel pump, stopped filter, or is this electronic? Do you know what the next diagnostic step is? Thanks.

I cleared the error code but it came back. When I said "coast" I meant as if you had taken your foot off the gas pedal or had put the car in neutral. When this happens it's as if the accelerator pedal is not connected to anything. The car idles perfectly but nothing happens when you push on the accelerator. After a period of time (5-10 seconds) the car will accelerate when you push the gas pedal, but only for about one or two seconds. Then it is like the gas pedal is not connected to anything again. I assumed this code was set because of the fuel injection making the transmission do something unusual. Would a transmission problem cause the car to do this? It doesn't act like it is slipping or causing any problems. Thanks for helping me with this problem.

That's a very good question. I don't know. I will have to look.
Something happened last night that may make the parts of this puzzle clearer. I put a new battery in the car over the weekend. Yesterday evening I tried to start the car but the battery was completely dead, drained to 3.78 volts! The top of the battery was covered in battery acid. This car has only been driven approximately 10 miles or less since the battery was installed. Am I correct in assuming that not only is something in the car powerfully draining the battery but that it is also being way overcharged? Would the most likely culprit be the alternator/voltage regularor malfunctioning? In the good old days alternators had diodes in them to keep charging voltage flowing in one direction. When these failed the alternator could drain the battery. Is this still the case in this car's alternator? Is the voltage regulator built into the alternator? Could this somehow be causing the surging problems this car is having? BS

The alternator is charging. When the old battery was connected to it it was charging at something like 17.6 volts. I assumed it was because the battery wasn't holding a charge. With the new voltage the battery was charging at over 14 volts. I did not check it at higher rpms than idle. It is very possible that voltage higher than normal was being read by the computer. Ironically, the car passed the emissions test the day before this happened, so I have a pretty good idea about the time when it was okay and when it failed. It seems that something failed catastrophically, not gradually. Unfortunately I took the car into the shop to have it looked at and $357.00 they installed a new throttle actuator and cleaned the battery cable ends all fixed. I wish I did it myself.

I had the same problem and found a used throttle actuator for $45.00 plugged it on and all set, thanks for the post. Helped me.

Recently, my 1998 Nissan Altima GLE has been running poorer than i'd like, and it isnt a gradual change, it seemed to happen after I changed the spark plugs.

It has 120,000 miles and never has had a problem before.

I am having significant power loss, esp. On the highway. Where normally it runs around 2.5k RPMs at 70mph, it now run at 3k. Not to mention accelerating to merge onto the interstate often redlines it.

My service engine light is not on, so I have nothing to go off of there. I did an oil change, sparkplug and sparkplug wire replacement. I also replaced the top O2 sensor but could not get the bottom, I did this mainly as preventive maintenance as my care has over 100k miles and never had them changed. Nothing seemed to help the problem.

Any suggestions would greatly help, I drive over 1000 miles every 2 weeks on long interstate stretches and cant afford to pay the gas while running at high RPMs like that.

Thank you very much to anyone who can help me.