Every now and then when I turn it on it turns over, but then it dies?

Tiny
JEFF HERMAN
  • MEMBER
I found a misplaced clamp on a large hose from the air horn to the valve cover. I don't know if this created a vacuum leak or not but before I try the IAC I'll drive the car tomorrow. Today after a thirty minute drive home it stalled pulling into my garage and would not immediately restart. After a couple minutes it restarted and seems to run fine. I also think that I can remove the IAC without removing the throttle bore.I'll keep you informed. Thank you.
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Friday, June 25th, 2021 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • EXPERT
Hello again,

The misplaces hose sounds like your Positive Crankcase Ventilation hose. This is a massive vacuum leak and will cause all the symptoms you are describing. The IAC mainly deals with your vehicle at idle, controlling the air bypassing the throttle plate that is closed at idle. I have also included a few links for you to go to below as well:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

The Crankshaft Position Sensor(CKP) will also cause your engine to stall or not run, or not start as well. If your blink codes are indicating this, I would definitely change this as well. Your vehicle uses this input from the CKP to determine the rotational speed(rpm's) of the crankshaft and monitors it for engine misfires. If no signal or a break in the signal is present the engine will not run as the PCM will not relize the engine is running.
Please go through these guides and get back to us with what you are able to find out please.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Friday, June 25th, 2021 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JEFF HERMAN
  • MEMBER
It seemed fine and then still did the same thing. It acts like there is water in the gas upon startup. Chugging. Once I accelerate it's fine. Then it started stalling randomly while driving. It would not immediately restart. After a few minutes it would restart and run apparently fine. I bought the crank sensor and checked its resistance. I also checked mine from the car. One had 550 ohms and one had 615 ohms. New and old respectively. Then I tried to test voltage at the plug. Got nothing with the key on except one time got 1.9 V on one wire. Tested again and got nothing. Started car without sensor connected and then started car with crank sensor out altogether. How is that possible? A shop said that it could be getting its signal from cam sensor.

I read the codes and even after it stalled while driving there was no code present? Where does the sensor get its voltage supply from?

Any help you can offer is appreciated as I am sort of stumped.

I have not installed the new crank sensor in case I want to return it.

Thank you for your help again.
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Friday, June 25th, 2021 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JEFF HERMAN
  • MEMBER
I have a new piece of information. I still can't get a voltage read but with the crank sensor out I get a code for it.
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Friday, June 25th, 2021 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • EXPERT
Hello again,

Okay, that's good. Have you checked your IAC valve yet?

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Friday, June 25th, 2021 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JEFF HERMAN
  • MEMBER
Not yet, I put the crank sensor in, cleared the code and will drive it tomorrow and see what happens. I read the crank sensor is known to fail when hot. There was also a recall on it and the cam sensor but for later years than mine.
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Friday, June 25th, 2021 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • EXPERT
Hello again,

Okay. Please check the IAC and get back to us, please. Usually with the problems that you described earlier, the IAC is the problem.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Friday, June 25th, 2021 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JEFF HERMAN
  • MEMBER
I took the crank sensor back out because it gave me two codes. I put the original one back and no codes. I will check the IAC this weekend because the car is stalling at stoplights and acting like it is not getting fuel? Could this be as simple as a fuel filter?
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Friday, June 25th, 2021 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • EXPERT
Hello,

Sure. If the filter gets clocked it would definitely cause idle issues and poor, erratic acceleration until it hits a spot and will have enough fuel passing through it that will start to run fine again. I have included a link for you to go to below:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-change-a-fuel-filter

I have also included vehicle specific information for your vehicle in the diagrams down below. Please go through these guides and get back to us with what you find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Friday, June 25th, 2021 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JEFF HERMAN
  • MEMBER
I could not check the IAC because I could only loosen the top screw and the bottom one feels like the head is damaged. They should have used hex head bolts instead of phillips screws. I will have to remove the throttle body to get the IAC out. Problem there is the cap screws were to tight and I didn't want to break them. What I did find was oil inside the distributor and it probably interfered with the optical pickup of the cam sensor. I sprayed it good with contact cleaner and it seems to be fine again. I'll probably have the replace the o-ring on the shaft of the distributor soon.
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Friday, June 25th, 2021 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • EXPERT
Hello again,

Great, so you fixed the problem. That is what we want to hear. Good job! Please, if you should have any other questions, please feel free to ask. It's why we are here.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Friday, June 25th, 2021 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JEFF HERMAN
  • MEMBER
Thank you for your help and I won't hesitate to reach out in the future.
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Friday, June 25th, 2021 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)

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