My engine will not run over - starter not working?

Tiny
NEATLYALLYSON
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 TOYOTA CELICA
  • 200,000 MILES
The battery was dead and I went to jump start it and there was a ton of corrosion on the positive terminal. I cleaned it all off, went to jump it and nothing. Would not charge, would not start. After taking a closer look I see a cable just floating in space and not connected to anything. I honestly do not remember if it was ever connected. Does this look like something that is supposed to be connected? Or does it look like excess cable from a previous battery replacement? I received this car in 2015 and it was used and seemed to be like it was an auction buy from the dealer. Any help and suggestions on what I need to do would be greatly appreciated. Attached below is the battery/cable.
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Sunday, December 2nd, 2018 AT 2:30 PM

51 Replies

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good evening,

Not stupid at all.

That green stuff is the cause. You need to replace that cable as all that corrosion is preventing any voltage from flowing.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

Replace the cable from the battery down with a new cable. You can get them at a parts store. You will need to measure the length of the cable to be sure you have enough cable to run it the same way it is run right there.

Roy

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Sunday, December 2nd, 2018 AT 3:57 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,699 POSTS
It sounds like there are multiple issues, but it all started with nothing more than a defective battery. The clue is your dandy observation of the excessive corrosion. As all batteries age, the lead slowly flakes off the plates. Battery manufacturers know that is going to happen, and how quickly. They provide the longest warranties they think they can get away with which is typically five years.

As more and more of that lead flakes off the plates, the electrical size of the battery becomes smaller and smaller. It will still crank most engines just fine, but not for as long, if necessary, as when it was new. The bigger concern is when that battery recharges once the engine is running. The amount of charging current going through the battery is determined, in part, by the charging voltage, and that is designed in to match the needs of the entire electrical system. The battery will charge at the intended rate, but with much of the lead flaked off the plates, that current gets packed into a smaller area, and that causes the plates to heat up more than normal.

These guides can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.
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Sunday, December 2nd, 2018 AT 4:09 PM
Tiny
FOX47BECH
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 TOYOTA CELICA
  • 116,000 MILES
From month ago it does not start every time, Changed battery and starter still same it will engage starter but not completely If I keep turning key it will start finally
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 5:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,005 POSTS
Did the old starter do the same thing? It sounds like a bad solenoid. Also, check the starter relay to make sure it is working properly.
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 5:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SHORTIE7
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
If the starter click but engine not crank over, replace starter will correct the your starting issue. Worked for me
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 5:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOHNSGOULD
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 2000 TOYOTA CELICA
  • 124,000 MILES
Just bought this car for my kid and when you turn the key to start it, sometimes it works, sometime it does not.

I have held the key all the way forward and it has then turned over, but ussually when I recycle the key and wait 5 seconds, it will then fire.

Does this sometimes.

I have replaced the starter, the relay and jumped the switch at the clutch pedal (manual trans).

Next is the Ignition switch?

No codes come up when scanned with a code scanner (Looked for a ECM issue)
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 5:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Intermittents are hard to find but here is a schematic of the start system for you to check. Look a the main fusiblelink where the arrow is. Check for maybe one or two strands of wires still connected. If that's is like that replace the whole llink. Ancd checkthe fuses underhood as well as the relay. The relay may have corrosion on it, if it doesn try cleaning it as well as the spade connector then put some dielectric compound on it to get better contact.
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 5:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOHNSGOULD
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Link looked ok. Added new ground strap to motor as well.

Put in a new starter relay but the old one was probally ok.

How hard to put in a new ignition switch?
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 5:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Removal

1. Disconnect and shield negative battery cable. Remove steering wheel. See STEERING WHEEL & AIR BAG. Remove upper and lower steering column covers. Remove combination switch (if necessary).
2. Disconnect ignition switch harness connectors. If shear bolt studs are accessible,  use a hacksaw to cut slots into exposed studs. Using a screwdriver,  remove studs.
3. If shear bolt studs are recessed or hard to reach with a hacksaw,  center punch studs. Using a drill bit and screw extractor,  remove studs. Remove ignition switch,  column upper bracket and lock cylinder.
4. To remove lock cylinder from column upper bracket,  place ignition key to ACC position. Using a screwdriver,  push down on stop pin located on side of column upper bracket. Pull out lock cylinder.

Installation

1. To install,  reverse removal procedure. Install NEW shear bolts. Tighten shear bolts finger tight. Ensure proper operation of ignition switch and lock cylinder.
2. Tighten shear bolts until heads break off. Install combination switch,  upper and lower steering column covers and steering wheel. Tighten steering wheel nut to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS. Make absolutely sure that you disconnect the battery so the air bag won'texplode on you. This should really be done by a pro. Also if you have a tilt wheel it's different procedure.
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 5:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOHNSGOULD
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Wow. Maybe a dealer is the best guy to do this.
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 5:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RIVERMIKERAT
  • MECHANIC
  • 6,110 POSTS
No. You can do it quite easily. The directions above are for R&R of the ignition lock cylinder. Here they are for the actual ignition switch. Test it with a meter or test light before deciding it needs to be changed.

STEERING COLUMN SWITCHES -2000 Toyota Celica GT
Page 1 of 1
IGNITION SWITCH
Removal & Installation
1.
Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove upper and lower steering column covers (it may be necessary to first remove lower instrument panel trim panel). Remove outer plastic trim cover
from lock cylinder assembly (if equipped).
2. Disconnect ignition switch harness connector(s). Remove screw(s) retaining ignition switch to lock cylinder. Remove ignition switch from lock cylinder. To install, reverse removal procedure.
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 5:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JILL M
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2000 TOYOTA CELICA
Engine problem
2000 Toyota Celica 4 cyl Wheel Drive Type unknown Manual 92,500 miles

My Celica has an intemitent no-start problem that seems to recur mostly during cold weather. I turn the key and absolutely nothing happens - no clicking, no cranking, nothing. After several tries (up to 10!) It finally turns over. I have had it to 2 shops, had the battery replaced, but no one can pinpoint the problem. Today it was 20 degrees out and it won't start at all. Help!
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 5:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FISHERMAN
  • MECHANIC
  • 938 POSTS
Hello !
I would start checking the connectors and terminals on both ends (batt. And Starter)

Then check the "signal" wire that tells the starter to engage (check for a voltage when cranking with a light tester)

and also check the clutch switch

sometimes the solenoid on cold weather freezes and wont "push" the bendix (the gear that turns the flywheel) and the starter motor wont engage (the bendix closes a contact to tell the starter motor to actuate)

check that and let us Know!

Good Luck!
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+1
Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 5:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RMCKINNON
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1995 TOYOTA CELICA
The car is not starting correctly. Sometimes it won't start at all. When we charge the battery it will start right up but then the next time we turn it off and go to start it again it won't start. Do we need a new battery or an alternator? Like I said it doesn't necessarily do this every time we go to start it.
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 5:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,938 POSTS
Hi there,

First make sure all electrical connections are clean and tight, have battery load tested to prove viability and then check charge rate at alternator. With all this ok, check that starter is working. Will it turn over the motor? Check this and if still having problems with Starting (not cranking) re post.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 5:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MORALESCHRIS
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1995 TOYOTA CELICA
  • 1.8L
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 228 MILES
Hi my name is chris I was recently installing a stereo in my car and the panel fuse blew so as I was changing it smoke came out from behind the steering wheel and I quickly unpluged the batterie and now I tryed starting it and it won't turn over no crank but lights and radio and wipers evetything else works I replaced the AM 1 fuse and starter fuse and it still won't turn on what could it possibly be
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 5:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
Smoke from wires shorting could mean some wires are burnt and you would need to go to the source of the smoke to check the wire harness conditions. The starting circuit is faulty if it is not cranking and you would need to find out where power source is missing.

Recheck your stereo wiring. Some could be wrongly installed or a wire is exposed causing the shorting.
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 5:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MURRAYBISCUIT
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1994 TOYOTA CELICA
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 27,500 MILES
I have a 1994 Toyota Celica with 275,000 miles. Recently the car has developed a cranking issue. If will crank and start up great in the mornings with no problems, but if I travel for a short distance and turn the car off, when I try to start the car it will not start. No issue with battery. Lights, radio works, it just will not start, after several hours, it finally starts as it nothing was wrong. HELP!
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 5:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,533 POSTS
Assuming you mean it wont crank, could be a bad starter/solenoid. Check for 12 volts at the small wire on the starter with key in crank position. If it has power then the starter needs to be replaced. If none, then get back to me and we will figure out where it stops.
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 5:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SAHOLBERT
  • MEMBER
  • 17 POSTS
  • 1994 TOYOTA CELICA
  • 150,000 MILES
I have a 1994 Toyota celica 1.8L DOHC. I hooked the battery up backwards and tried to start the car. Its now on right but will not start or shift out of park. Also, the brake/tail lights and dash lights will not work. Power locks and windows will not work
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 5:35 PM (Merged)

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