My engine shut off while driving can you help me fix it?

Tiny
ROUGHOGG
  • MEMBER
  • 2012 CHEVROLET IMPALA
  • 3.8L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 75,000 MILES
Driving down the road my car shut off. Lights to some of the car still work but car will not crank at all. Once I stoped and put it in park it will not come out of park. Not even reading the shifter position on screen at all.
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Friday, January 10th, 2020 AT 6:53 AM

34 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
This sounds like your battery shorted out but to be sure please run down these guides.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Please run down these guides and report back.
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Friday, January 10th, 2020 AT 11:12 AM
Tiny
ROUGHOGG
  • MEMBER
It was the battery good call, thanks for your help I dig this site.
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Sunday, January 12th, 2020 AT 2:10 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Nice work, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.
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Sunday, January 12th, 2020 AT 2:42 PM
Tiny
CHAQUYRYA
  • MEMBER
  • 2011 CHEVROLET IMPALA
  • 80,300 MILES
My car was hesitating when I tried to pick up speed about 6 months ago. Then mu check engine light came on and also Service stabilitrak. I never thought twice about it again bc when I drove my car it went off. So when the new year came in. I would feel the hesitation and then both lights would come on. By this time its once every two weeks. Then a month ago I was speeding up the acceleration lane on the freeway and my car completely cut off with a new light saying service throttle: starting disabled. I get a diagnostic check from chevyland and they said its the throttle position sensor. I buy the part and have it put on. Now my car still hesitates and my check engine light pops on every day and what really scares me is my rpm hand is moving and reving my car while its in park. At this point idk what to do. It revs harder when I turn my air conditioning on.
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Wednesday, January 20th, 2021 AT 10:23 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
This sounds like a fuel pump or the crankshaft angle sensor has gone out. When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Wednesday, January 20th, 2021 AT 10:23 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DUSTINRB94
  • MEMBER
  • 2008 CHEVROLET IMPALA
  • 3.9L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 280,000 MILES
If my car sits overnight the next day when I try to start it it will start just fine but it shuts off immediately. It will do this about 2-3 sometimes 4 times and will eventually start sputtering and running rough for about 10 seconds then it is fine the rest of the day. Even if I park it 7-8 hours it will start perfect it only happens when it sits overnight.
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Wednesday, January 20th, 2021 AT 10:23 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • EXPERT
This is one of two things in my mind. First and most likely is the fuel pump is failing. The sputtering comment is what points me in that direction. We need to test fuel pressure when this happens and see if it is around 60 PSI.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

The other issue could be the throttle air control system. This system is responsible for allowing the proper amount of air into the engine for it to run properly. The starting and stalling is normally caused by this system. However, it normally doesn't cause a sputter.

Let me know what you find with the fuel pressure and we can go from there.
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Wednesday, January 20th, 2021 AT 10:23 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SABRINA OETTLE
  • MEMBER
  • 2008 CHEVROLET IMPALA
  • 3.5L
  • 6 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 149,000 MILES
I was driving my car today and went over a few speed bumps after I got over the second one my car shut off completely, and would not restart. The radio and gear shift indicator on the dash (steering column shifter) came back on after putting the car in park and turning the key. All steering was completely lost when the car shut off. The car literally came to a halt mid drive. No warning no indicator lights, nothing. When I tried to restart it, sounded like it wanted to start but would not or could not. No weird clicking noise, just the sound of it trying to crank but just could not. I was lucky enough that people were outside and able to help me out to move the car from the middle of the road (was back in my mom's apartment complex) and was able to get a jump from the maintenance guy there to make it back home. After getting the jump the car started like nothing was wrong, and was able to make it home. Checked oil, trans. Fluid, power steering fluid, brake fluid, coolant all good. I hooked up my battery charger and left it for an hour or so and let it charge to 100. Waited until about seven or so and took it out to see if I could replicate the problem, and took a different route and sure enough I was able to replicate it. The codes we got from before the test drive to replicate problem were p011, p0442, p0445, p0496 (most of which through research seem to be fuel related). I have the Lt model v6.
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Wednesday, January 20th, 2021 AT 10:23 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Hello,

It sounds like the battery has shorted out and needs replacing there is a guide to confirm the failure.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Here will give you an idea on how to change it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-car-battery

You mentioned the steering went out completely. When the engine stalls, the power steering pump stops running, and you will lose the power assist, that is all. There is always still a mechanical backup but it is going to take a lot of effort to turn the steering wheel. The greatest effort will always be when the car is standing still. In fact, some people are not strong enough to turn the steering wheel then, but that is hardly a safety concern when the car is not moving.

The faster the car is moving, the easier it will be to turn the steering wheel. At highway speeds you do not even need the power steering, and you would barely notice if it failed. Too may people think they have no steering at all if the engine stalls, then, when that day comes, they do not even try to avoid a crash.

There are two things you can do to get the diagnosis started for the stalling problem. The first is to follow the smaller battery positive wire to the under-hood fuse box. Be sure that connection is clean and tight. That connection causes a lot of problems on all brands of cars.

Second, have the charging system tested by checking out tis guide

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

As a guess, based only on the age of your car, the typical generator is rated at around ninety amps. If the full-load test shows it can only develop exactly one third of that, or around thirty amps, it has one defective internal diode of the six. That can cause or aggravate the symptoms you described, but there's more to the story. Since GM redesigned their generators for the 1987 model year, they have a real lot of generator failures caused by the huge voltage spikes they develop.

The battery is the key component in damping and absorbing those spikes, but they lose their ability to do that as they age and the lead flakes off the plates. If testing proves the generator needs to be replaced, always replace the battery on GM vehicles at the same time unless it is less than about two years old. That will reduce the high number of repeat generator failures.

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers
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Wednesday, January 20th, 2021 AT 10:23 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SABRINA OETTLE
  • MEMBER
1). The alternator was tested and was fine, and 2). And I know I said lost all steering a monkey would know that meant I was unable to turn the wheel without using force. Seeing as how I am a girl. I am just trying to get some ideas as to possible causes.
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Wednesday, January 20th, 2021 AT 10:23 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Im am sorry if I seemed disrespectful I didn't mean it. I would put my money on the battery being bad or a bad connection.
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Wednesday, January 20th, 2021 AT 10:23 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FLOMARCELLA
  • MEMBER
  • 2008 CHEVROLET IMPALA
  • 3.9L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • 180,000 MILES
It started with a oil change then the motor started to knock so we replaced a valve. Then it would not start so took it back apart and now it starts but then knock backfires, stalls, and shuts off. We replace the cam sensor, plugs, wires and now there are many codes coming up each time.
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Wednesday, January 20th, 2021 AT 10:23 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
Good afternoon,

This sounds like you have a rocker arm that is the issue and one of the valves is not working

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

If you have the codes, it will help me narrow the area of failure.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

When you removed the valve covers, did you see any damage on one of the rocker arms?

I would also check the compression to be sure there is no internal damage. You should have 140-160 pounds.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Roy

1. Remove the valve rocker arm covers. Refer to Valve Rocker Arm Cover Replacement - Left Side (See: Valve Cover > Removal and Replacement > Valve Rocker Arm Cover Replacement - Left Side) or Valve Rocker Arm Cover Replacement - Right Side (See: Valve Cover > Removal and Replacement > Valve Rocker Arm Cover Replacement - Right Side) .
2. Loosen the valve rocker arm bolts.
3. Remove the rocker arms.
4. Remove the pushrods.

The intake push rods measure 147.51 mm (5.81 in).
The exhaust push rods measure 154.87 mm (6.1 in).

Installation Procedure

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

1. Coat the ends of the pushrods using prelube. Refer to Adhesives, Fluids, Lubricants, and Sealers (See: Engine > Mechanical) .
2. Install the pushrods.

The intake pushrods are identified with blue stripes.
The exhaust pushrods are identified with yellow stripes.

3. Ensure that the pushrods seat in the lifter bore.
4. Coat the rocker arm friction surfaces using prelube. Refer to Adhesives, Fluids, Lubricants, and Sealers (See: Engine > Mechanical) .

Important: Shims (88894006) may be required under the valve rocker arm pedestals if reconditioning has been performed on the cylinder head or its components.

5. Install the rocker arms.

Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice .

6. Install the rocker arm bolts.

Tighten the bolts to 34 N.m (25 lb ft).

7. Install the valve rocker arm covers. Refer to Valve Rocker Arm Cover Replacement - Left Side (See: Valve Cover > Removal and Replacement > Valve Rocker Arm Cover Replacement - Left Side) or Valve Rocker Arm Cover Replacement - Right Side (See: Valve Cover > Removal and Replacement > Valve Rocker Arm Cover Replacement - Right Side) .

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Wednesday, January 20th, 2021 AT 10:23 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ANDREA COURTER
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 CHEVROLET IMPALA
  • 0.5L
  • V6
  • 200,000 MILES
When my car sits for a couple hours or more and I get in to drive I cannot accelerate very fast or stalls out. Always starts back up but my tachometer does not work and runs rough. I shut off and let sit for a few minutes will run fine. I have replaced the air mass flow sensor and throttle positioning sensor. Any ideas?
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Wednesday, January 20th, 2021 AT 10:24 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JORGE S
  • EXPERT
Check your fuel pressure using a pressure gauge. If your fuel pressure is low it will cause lose of power and if it is too low a hard start until enough pressure is built. Low fuel pressure can be caused by a bad fuel pump, leaking pressure regulator or fuel injectors.
Here is a link to check fuel system.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator
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Wednesday, January 20th, 2021 AT 10:24 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JOHNNY G.JR
  • MEMBER
Check fuel filter also.
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Wednesday, January 20th, 2021 AT 10:24 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • EXPERT
Sounds like it could have a bad crankshaft position sensor you mentioned that the tachometer does not work when it acts up. Have you had the computer scanned for codes?
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Wednesday, January 20th, 2021 AT 10:24 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ANDREA COURTER
  • MEMBER
I had it scanned and it grew the air mass flow sensory and the throttle positioning sensor. I have replaced both. Going to get it reset and scanned again this weekend. My next attempt was the crankshaft sensory. The weirdest thing is the tachometer does not work after it stalls out. Thank you all for the suggestions will post update this weekend.
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Wednesday, January 20th, 2021 AT 10:24 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • EXPERT
If the crankshaft position sensor was bad the tachometer would not work right that is what tells the computer the rpm's. Make sure you get the exact code numbers not code descriptions.
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Wednesday, January 20th, 2021 AT 10:24 AM (Merged)
Tiny
EUGENE PEACHY
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 CHEVROLET IMPALA
  • 3.4L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 172,000 MILES
When you start the car it runs then shuts off. Start it again it will run fine. I have done everything but change the fuel pump because I was told it was just replaced I have put over $3,000.00 in this car. I work on cars for a living but this one has me stumped. The code says I need to change thermostat but no other codes. Then today it wont stay running. Good fuel pressure.
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Wednesday, January 20th, 2021 AT 10:25 AM (Merged)

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