1995 Dodge Caravan No Spark

Tiny
RUDYSALAZAR
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 DODGE CARAVAN
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 180,000 MILES
Changed the ignition coil, camshaft sensor and crank shaft sensor and still no spark? A year ago same thing, but when we put in a new ignition coil there was still no spark and we installed back the old coil and it started?--We scrached our heads and let it go--now its no spark again after over a year.
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Thursday, June 10th, 2010 AT 12:44 AM

10 Replies

Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • EXPERT
Hi
Engine 3.0L?If yes pull dist cap crank does rotor spin? Does fuel pump run?
Let me know
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Thursday, June 10th, 2010 AT 10:27 AM
Tiny
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This Engine is a 3.8
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Thursday, June 10th, 2010 AT 10:40 AM
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • EXPERT
At coil is there 12v+ on Dark green/orange?
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Thursday, June 10th, 2010 AT 10:46 AM
Tiny
RUDYSALAZAR
  • MEMBER
Dark green/orange wire has power momentarily when key is turned on. I put my meter on max read and I got voltages from 8.5 to 11.4 volts. Again--only when key is on at first--no voltage just sitting there.
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Thursday, June 10th, 2010 AT 3:30 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Hi guys. Excuse me for jumping in here. The voltage is supposed to come back during engine rotation, cranking or running. That one second you saw the 12 volts is to run the fuel pump to be sure pressure is up for starting. When the voltage doesn't reappear during cranking, suspect the crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor.

I'll go back to the sidelines now and wait to find out what the fix is. Carry on.

Caradiodoc
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Thursday, June 10th, 2010 AT 9:33 PM
Tiny
RUDYSALAZAR
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While cranking it seems no voltage--just the key on voltage.

Can I test the sensors? To make sure they are good? I put new ones in from autozone and still no spark.
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Thursday, June 10th, 2010 AT 10:00 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
I never replaced a cam sensor but the crankshaft position sensor's air gap is critical. New Chrysler sensors used to come with a paper spacer stuck to the end. It set the gap and just slid off the first time the engine was cranked. Some aftermarket sensors have a plastic rib molded onto the end that wears off very quickly. That rib sets the gap initially. If that type of sensor is removed and reinstalled, the remaining part of the rib is supposed to be cut off and the paper spacer is used. I used to cut those paper spacers in half and just used one part so I could save the other part to use on another engine. You can get the spacers at the dealer's parts department. I don't know if they're available at other auto parts stores.

I did read where one fellow found that his new sensor was broken because he didn't use a spacer and it hit the outer ring on the flexplate.

I have a '95 Grand Caravan, and until a few months ago, I didn't even know it had a cam sensor. If you want to try to test it and the crank sensor, the feed wire to both will have either 8.0 or 10.0 volts with the ingition switch on. If it is missing, unplug the two sensors and remeasure to see if the voltage comes back. The Engine Computer will shut the power supply down to protect it. You'll have to cycle the ignition switch off and back on to reset it. If the voltage disappears again when one of the sensors is plugged back in, it is shorted.

If the supply voltage is there, measure the ground wires. Expect to find 0.2 volts. If it is a lot higher, look for a break in the wire or a corroded splice. The signal wires are harder to measure with a digital voltmeter because the display will bounce around a lot. If the voltage stays solidly at 0 or 5.0 volts, that sensor is likely not working. A better way to tell if the sensors are working is if you have access to one of the Chrysler scanners, they will display "yes" or "no" for each sensor to indicate if the signals are being received during cranking. I use both the DRB2 and DRB3 scanners. You can find the DRB2 at car show swap meets or on eBay for not too much money. The DRB3 is overkill for most people's needs but they are available over the internet or from the dealer's parts department. The newer models will only work on vehicles back to 1998. To go back further, there is a plug-in card that lets it work on cars back to 1994 and all brands of cars 1996 and newer with the OBD2 emissions system. A different card lets it work on just Chrysler products back to 1983 models. The DRB2 uses plug-in cartridges which are different for most years. The last "Supercartridge" covered all years of all domestic cars and trucks up to 1994 models, but that '94 cartridge works fine on my '95 Caravan.

I'll hand you back to Docfixit. I didn't mean to butt into your conversation. Just wanted to add a little info so you had something to check while waiting for his reply.

Caradiodoc
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Thursday, June 10th, 2010 AT 10:47 PM
Tiny
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I will be back at it in a few 3-days days and will post the results. Note--the new crank sensor I put in didn't seem to tear the paper off--I think I didn't get it down far enough. And the old sensor looked like it had been too close to the ring gear(or what ever it is in there). Thank You.
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Thursday, June 10th, 2010 AT 10:58 PM
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • EXPERT
In engine compartment box find ASD relay also fuel pump relay. Swap relays if you get spark then replace ASD relay.
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Friday, June 11th, 2010 AT 8:37 AM
Tiny
RUDYSALAZAR
  • MEMBER
I put in a new crank sensor again--and this time I pushed way down to make sure the paper spacer would rip off and then have proper clearance--BUT there was still no spark.

I then traced the wires from the crank sensor to check for the obvious. Found engine harness oil soaked and tie-wraped with a plastic tie by oil pan and started had wires tied tight--so I removed tie wrap and exposed harness and cleaned oil--and while cleaning I had my brother in law try to start and it fired up.

I think the "gray/Purple" wire from the crank sensor was shorting in metal by oil pan from being tied to tight. The wire looks and feels smashed--but I dicided not to splice and repair because didnt know if it would take a splice ok due to it being low voltage--so I left it alone since it was now working.

I loosely secured wires and harness. All ok.

Note: I originally Donated $15.00 for a fast response, but I got better response and help from the free side of this site. Don't mind supporting this site, but its a shame that when you donate you don't get prioity and better help--got send a JPG pic of a wire diagram that was a joke--could read it, even after emailed to me.

Thanks all.
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Friday, June 18th, 2010 AT 2:08 PM

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