No Spark

Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
ASD relay will supply the power to coil
it depand on the crank sensor
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Monday, October 22nd, 2018 AT 6:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GENE1988
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
Asd relay where is it located on vehicle thanks
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Monday, October 22nd, 2018 AT 6:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
Auto shutdown relay is at the fender left side


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/99387_asd_88_1.jpg



check /replace the crank sensor
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Monday, October 22nd, 2018 AT 6:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GENE1988
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  • 13 POSTS
Thanks that fixed it
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Monday, October 22nd, 2018 AT 6:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GREG91
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
  • 1997 DODGE CARAVAN
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
I have dodge caravan 97 3.0 the is thereno spark going through the plugs but there is fire in the control wires to coil is there fire there when the key switch on? Because there on fire when im cranking the engine and where can I find the tranmission control module what does it look like where is I located. Im not sure but I believe the the control wire for the coil is not sending enough power to fire the plugs or the pcm is not getting signal from crank shaft sensor.
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Monday, October 22nd, 2018 AT 6:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,763 POSTS
My head is spinning. You need to use some punctuation so the sentences make sense. Also, by "fire" do you mean "voltage" or are some wires melting or overheating? There will not be any voltage to the coil unless the engine is rotating, (cranking or running).

Have you checked for fuel pressure? There are three separate but related systems. Most no-start problems are caused by the trigger circuit that turns on the ignition coil, injectors, and the fuel pump.

Caradiodoc
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Monday, October 22nd, 2018 AT 6:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GREG91
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
Ok sorry yeah votage. And where do I find the trigger circuit? How do I check it/ and one more question if the timing belt was broke and I cranked the engine could have messed the heads up?
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Monday, October 22nd, 2018 AT 6:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GREG91
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
And no I didnt the fuel pressure I will tomarrow.
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Monday, October 22nd, 2018 AT 6:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GREG91
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
The ASD relay run those three thing but the ful pump comes on for about 5 seconds the goes off.I check the relays
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Monday, October 22nd, 2018 AT 6:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
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The 3.0L is not an interference engine so the valves won't be damaged.

The trigger circuit is the optical pickup assembly in the distributor, (camshaft position sensor), and the crankshaft position sensor. He lives in the transmission housing right behind the rear cylinder head, close to the firewall. When pulses arrive from those two sensors, the Engine Computer knows the engine is rotating so it turns on the automatic shutdown relay and the fuel pump relay. The ASD relay sends voltage to the ignition coil, injectors, alternator field, and oxygen sensor heaters.

You know the fuel pump circuit is working because you can hear it run for a few seconds. The ASD relay should be turning on at the same time. Use a test light or digital voltmeter to measure the voltage on the dark green / orange wire in the connector for the ignition coil, an injector, or either of the small terminals on the back of the alternator. You should see 12 volts for one second after turning on the ignition switch. What's important is it must come back as soon as you start cranking the engine.

Caradiodoc
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Monday, October 22nd, 2018 AT 6:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GREG91
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
OK I put a new crankshaft position sensor so I that works I also changed the camshaft position sensor. And yes I hear the fuel pump soon as turn the key to the on position then it stops. And so yours saying the ignition coil, injector and alternater should have 12 volts at each of them for one second rite? Then as im cranking the engine it should be 12 in each items?
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Monday, October 22nd, 2018 AT 6:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BOA
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 1989 DODGE CARAVAN
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 130,000 MILES
I have a 1989 dodge caravan 2.5l tbi van, and last night it just quit while driving down the road. So I had it towed home on a trailer.
I determined it wasn't getting any spark ( I checked the spark from the sparkplug wire to ground. And then from the coil to ground, and there was no spark). So I replaced the coil, and it is still the same. I also checked all of the fuses inside the van, and they were fine.
I am not so sure how to make sure it is getting the right power, or volts to the coil? Or if it could be something totally different?
Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
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Monday, October 22nd, 2018 AT 6:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CH112063
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,320 POSTS
See if the distributor turns when your cranking it, the timing belt may have broke, the rubber teeth get stripped. Also you can use your 'check engine' light to check for fault codes. You turn the key to on, off, on, off, on and wait, the check engine light will flash. A short flash followed by a pause and two flashes would be a 12. Each code number means something else. Also the fuse links are located under the hood, follow the battery positive cable as it travels towards the left strut you'll see a bunch of taped up fusible links, these are the engine compartments fuses. You'll need a 6-12 volt test light.
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Monday, October 22nd, 2018 AT 6:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
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Yup. 12 volts for one second at key-on, and 12 volts again during cranking.

Have you checked for stored diagnostic fault codes? Cycle the ignition switch 3 times from "off" to "run" within 5 seconds, then, on older cars you have to count the flashes of the Check Engine light. I think by '97 the codes are displayed in the digital odometer display. There should be a code if the Engine Computer detected the missing pulses from the cam or crank sensor.

Be aware too that a spacer is needed to set the air gap of the crankshaft position sensor. Original sensors use a thick paper spacer stuck to the end, then you push the sensor in as far as it will go. The spacer will slide off when the engine is started. You can get new ones from the dealer's parts department.

Some aftermarket sensors have a thin plastic rib molded on the end to set the gap. That rib partially wears away over time. To remove and reinstall that type of sensor you are supposed to cut the remaining rib off, then use the paper spacer.

In some cases, failure to use a spacer could cause the sensor to break from being hit by the ring on the torque converter.

Caradiodoc
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Monday, October 22nd, 2018 AT 6:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BOA
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
I had put the question on earlier in the day, and later got a chance to check the van out some more. However I just now actually got time to sit, and rest from a long day. So I just got to see your reply.
I was tracking the no spark problem, and realized the rotor in the distributor wasn't turning (was looking at the pickup coil) so I took the 2 bolts off of the top belt cover, and seen it was broken (actually pulled it out easily). So it was the belt.
I wanted to take the time to thank you ch112063 for taking the time to reply. Your ideas were right on the money! Thanks again.
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Monday, October 22nd, 2018 AT 6:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GREG91
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
Ok will do. I put the dianostic code reader it p0443 something about evap proportional purge solenoid that wouldnt stop it from starting would it? And ima check that crankshaft sensor the first one took had nothing on it. And the first thing that dont have 12 volts that when I start there trace my way back
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Monday, October 22nd, 2018 AT 6:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CH112063
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,320 POSTS
That is fine, I am just glad you didn't have to waste the time looking further the way I did when I first started working with Chrysler at a Dodge dealership. If you need any further advice, anytime. Your very welcome, its 2carpros idea, I just visit to see if I can help since most of my experience was with Chrysler and I owned many just like yours(2.2l though). Have a good day and good luck, the belt teeth get wiped out, it looks ok but the crankshaft sprocket just spins while the belt sits there. This is usually the way they come in.
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Monday, October 22nd, 2018 AT 6:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GREG91
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
Hey I mad I little progress today the timing mark was set wrong on my timing belt I fix that now it getting spark but wont start backfire threw the plenum all I did was slide cranshaft sensor up its tryna start I lined everthing up everything number 1 at tdc and the rotor button over top of number 1 plug still back firing and but wont start whats my next step?
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Monday, October 22nd, 2018 AT 6:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,763 POSTS
If you did that, the rotor is off by 90 degrees. If you look at the terminals under the cap, you'll see the tunnels where the conductors go to the terminals on top of the cap. They aren't straight above each other. That was done to make the plug wires look pretty by being in nice straight rows next to each other.

Caradiodoc
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Monday, October 22nd, 2018 AT 6:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GREG91
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
Ok tho I set it under number plug when I put the timing belt I put it over top of put 1 I took the distributer up and twisted the rotor to the number 1 plug does that mean she still it off by 90 degrees if that doesnt work what my next step
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Monday, October 22nd, 2018 AT 6:09 PM (Merged)

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