Door locks not working

Tiny
MIKE6768
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
Electrical problem V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 98,000 miles

My driver door works by pushing the lock/unlock button inside on the driver door only. My key less option works only on the driver door. My front passenger door lock works on the driver door but not on anything else. My rear passenger doors and rear hatch aren't working at all.

The front passenger doors will lock/unlock the driver door, but will not lock/unlock the its self. And again the two rear and rear hatch don't do anything.
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have the same problem?
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No
Saturday, November 1st, 2008 AT 7:34 PM

20 Replies

Tiny
JAMES W.
  • MEMBER
Everything points to the body control module or the main switch in the drivers door which all circuits run through. I can't believe you would have 3 bad switches or 3 bad actuators or a combination there of. My cut and paste is down, but if you have access to a fax I can send you a wiring diagram.
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Saturday, November 1st, 2008 AT 11:26 PM
Tiny
JAMES W.
  • MEMBER
Mike, there are 3 different lock systems used in your suburban. One is ruled out because you have remote entry. Narrowing down the remaining two. Do you have a lock switch on the driver's door control that will disable the rear door lock systems? Also, on your keyless remote, if you push the button "once" does it unlock the driver's door only and have to push it again to unlock "all" the doors? It may not work that way now but, is that the way it is supposed to work?
The body control module is under the left side of the dash by the steering column.
Again, if you have access to a fax, I'll send you diagrams so you will know what I'm talking about. It may just be a relay and not the BC module.
One more thing, if you try to lock or unlock the right rear door from the driver's door, do you hear anything from the RR door?
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Sunday, November 2nd, 2008 AT 7:25 PM
Tiny
MIKE6768
  • MEMBER
No, there isn't anything on the drivers door to disable the rear locks. As far as the keyless. Yes, pushed once will lock and unlock the driver door. Before the my problem started, yes a second push would unlock the rest of the doors. One other thing it may or may not be cause of the problem, but I was haveing problems with my battery around the time the lock problem started. I have since replaced the battery and no more problem with starting my vehicle. Could there be a problem with the automatic lock needing to be reset? My fax is #360-944-3019. Thanks
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Sunday, November 2nd, 2008 AT 11:52 PM
Tiny
JAMES W.
  • MEMBER
Disconnecting the battery will not affect your lock operation. As far as reseting or re-programing the system, the reciever is getting the signal from the remote because it will open the driver's door, so that part is ok. Everything points to a bad BC module. Faxed diagrams are on the way.
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Monday, November 3rd, 2008 AT 3:48 PM
Tiny
DJROCKER1007
  • MEMBER
Hey there Bud, Did you ever get a fix to this problem? I have one coming to my shop today for the same problem and will let you know the outcome.
David W. Houston, TX / Intensive Care Auto
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Saturday, November 22nd, 2008 AT 1:56 PM
Tiny
NEALT
  • MEMBER
My 2001 suburban. Replaced window regulator driver rear. Shorted out wires going to actuator with nut. Blew lock fuse. Left dash end. Fixed short. Removed relays before fixing short. Replaced relays, all unlock from pass. And drivers keypad and remote. Lock only drivers door all input. So when you stop all doors unlock with no way to lock other than manually. No key rear hatch. Unlocked always. I put the relay that controls all the other doors. In upside down. Lock all and unlock drivers relays on left of fuse panel. All other doors unlock right of those. Note on access panel about this relay. 3 prongs of relay up instead of down. Omron reads upside down. Fixed problem. Note change only 1 thing at a time. And evaluate. With voltage in lock going to actuator no negative return though unlock relay.
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Thursday, March 16th, 2017 AT 6:38 PM
Tiny
NEALT
  • MEMBER
There are 4 fuses with this circuit and 1 jumper. Go to autozone for electrical scematic. All contained of the left fuse panel. Not sure where jumper is. Check all.
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Thursday, March 16th, 2017 AT 6:51 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Have a mechanic scan for codes you may have burnt/damaged a module by shorting the wire out I doubt it's a fuse but could be the body control module was damaged. See pic for fuses/relay
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Friday, March 17th, 2017 AT 7:02 AM
Tiny
JERJANSS34
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • 5.3L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 120,000 MILES
Car had door lock issues before we bought it. They thought it was aftermarket remote start. Had that removed now door locks with key fob and button do not work intermittently also when this happens the power seats and mirrors do not work. I changed the three relays for the door and no fix. Need help
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Tuesday, May 23rd, 2017 AT 10:28 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Check battery in remote and take remote to auto parts to see if it works they can check it. Wiggle wires in between door and jamb and see if window and mirror work if they do you have wire broken there.
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Tuesday, May 23rd, 2017 AT 10:28 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MELONIE BROWN STOKLEY
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • 135,000 MILES
My remote door lock/unlock does not work. The remotes are good, I had them checked. What modular controls the door locks? I even reprogrammed the locks and they still do not work.
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Tuesday, May 23rd, 2017 AT 10:28 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JERJANSS34
  • MEMBER
Windows work fine it's mirrors, door locks on fob and buttons on doors and seats don't move. But when buttons work everything else does as well.
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Tuesday, May 23rd, 2017 AT 10:28 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • EXPERT
The body control module controls all that. How did you try reprogramming the remotes?
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Tuesday, May 23rd, 2017 AT 10:28 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
If the buttons on door or seats don't work then it's a button problem. Of if they work and windows don't have it scanned for codes it may be a module problem in doors. Check the seat circuit breaker for power to seat buttons it is an orange wire and check blak wire under seat for contact and no corrosion. The same wire powers both seats. Then check yellow and blue wires under seat. Also check for harness hitting seat and grounding out some of these did that and effected other areas. For mirrors if door locks work then fuse is good inside car which is mirror/clk fuse 3a also orange wire supplying power and yellow going to mirror it may be the buttons don't work is the problem. If power goes to mirror then it's the motor in mirrors. But do wiggle test it still could be that for windows and mirrors.
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Tuesday, May 23rd, 2017 AT 10:28 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JERJANSS34
  • MEMBER
Ok when it's working all are working when it goes out they all stop at the same time (door locks, mirrors and seats) when works all buttons work for everything when goes out no buttons for those things work. It is an intermittent problem. All relays and fuses checked and changed to be safe. No blown fuses and relays click like they should. Was thinking maybe actuators but then why seats and mirrors at same time
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Tuesday, May 23rd, 2017 AT 10:28 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Do what I said in replies, it may be a broken wire between door and jamb for seats check wiring harness like I said under the seat
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Tuesday, May 23rd, 2017 AT 10:28 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ROBBOB3000
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 114,000 MILES
Electrical problem
1999 Chevy Suburban V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 114000 miles

The swith to lock and unlock the doors will not work on the driver or passenger side. The remote will work for the door locks but not the interior switch. Also half of the lighted station numbers on the factory radio are out. I checked the fuses, they're all ok except the 20amp for the transfer case keeps blowing. I'm not quite sure whats the problem.
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Tuesday, May 23rd, 2017 AT 10:28 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi:
First, you need to have the driver's side switch checked. It feeds power to all. Next, to repair the lights on the radio, you will need to take it to a stereo shop to have it taken apart and repaired. Finally, the it sounds lilke you either have a short going to the transfer case or the actuator motor is bad. Disconnect the plug to the transfer case and see if it still blows the fuse. If it does, you have a short. If it doesn't, there is a problem in the actuator.

Joe
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Tuesday, May 23rd, 2017 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BLUESCOOT
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 120,000 MILES
Electrical problem
1999 Chevy Suburban V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic 120000 miles

my remote door lock control got weaker and weaker to the point where it only works when I am right next to the car. When I back up 2 feet away from the car it doesn't work. I replaced the battery but no improvement. After 9 years does the receiver in the car wear out? Where is the antenna on the car?
Thanks.
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Tuesday, May 23rd, 2017 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
No it may be the key fob auto parts can check to see if they are working otherwise a mechanic has to scan the system for codes to find the problem.
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Tuesday, May 23rd, 2017 AT 3:20 PM

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