Engine Overheating

Tiny
ELVISLOVER
  • MEMBER
Im not a no it all but you sound like a smartass! I asked could their still be air in the lines? Or someone else suggested maybe the cadillic converter?
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Wednesday, August 1st, 2018 AT 7:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RALPHJIMENEZ
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 CHEVROLET IMPALA
Engine Cooling problem
2003 Chevy Impala 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

Help please have already spent over 1000.00 on repairs. The car started turning off a week a ago to it to pep boys they replaced the spark plugs, spark plug wires, did a cooloant kit, diagnostics, replaced battery. It worked for about a week the yesterday it brokr down again it shut off it was over heating took it back to pep boys they could not figure out what was wrong finally the master tech suspected that the MAP was clogged and need replacement so I had them replace that it turned on for a while and then it shut down still over heating so they say they have no clue what is wrong but suggest that it may be the catalist converter, electrical, fan housing, wiring they are still working on it and cant find a solution to the problems oh yeah after they installed they MAP sensor the car start emiting balack smoke.
So I could really use some advice if u need to contact me call me at 2109950618
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Wednesday, August 1st, 2018 AT 7:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RENAUDTN
  • MEMBER
The black smoke is likely due to a rich fuel/air mixture (too much gas is burned).

You could have a leaky fuel injector, a defective fuel pressure regulator, a clogged air filter, a problem with the MAP sensor, a defective coolant sensor, a defective o2 sensor, TPS sensor, problem in the EGR system.
You could also have more serious internal engine problems (like burnt exhaust valves).

First thing I would do: hook up an autoscanner to your PCM and check for DTCs/pending DTCs. Make sure the readings from all the sensors are within range.

Honestly, I'd be very careful with a car shop that starts replacing one part after another without doing any real diagnostic.
I suggest you take it to a different car shop (one recommended by a friend or something).

Given your description of the problem, a glogged catalytic converter could be the culprit indeed; however it could be many other things as well. (Check intake vacuum at idle; if low and keep dropping check your exhaust system).
If it turns out to be the converter, I recommend you replace (or at least inspect carefully) your O2 sensors. They are very important for proper operation of the catalytic converter.

If the converter is alright and the sensors test fine, I would probably take a look at the charging system (if you have a problem in your charging system, it would eventually result in your car turning off).
When your car turned off, were you able to start it right back up, or did you have to jump start it?

Also, do a fuel pressure test; it should tell you if there's any problem with your fuel system.

Check for vacuum leaks. It could cause your car to run roughly or stall. This should be more noticeable at idle, thus my following questions:

does your car turn off at idle or when you're driving?

Finally, if you still haven't found the problem, do a compression test; it will tell you if you have internal engine problems.
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Wednesday, August 1st, 2018 AT 7:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Neither f those would effect overheating and head gasket doesn't have to smoke to be bad they leak internally. Do what I said in first reply, radiator can have good flow and still be bad if you feel cold spots then it's no good shold be same temp all over.
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Wednesday, August 1st, 2018 AT 7:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JBS_BRAT2
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 CHEVROLET IMPALA
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 134,000 MILES
Lets see, water pump started leaking replaced. No more water leaking but car continue to 'lose water'. No water in oil, no water from tail pipe, no water on ground.

Overheated. Checked engine compression - good in all cylinders. Replaced upper and lower intake manifolds including plastic pieces inside intake. Reassembled. Car continues to overheat periodic water down, no obvious leaks.

Overheated cooled more Dex Cool and car won't start. Ideas?
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Wednesday, August 1st, 2018 AT 7:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • EXPERT
No start?After it overheated
check for compression
check for spark check for fuel pressure
do a code check
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Wednesday, August 1st, 2018 AT 7:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PEACH
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 CHEVROLET IMPALA
  • 6 CYL
  • AWD
  • 171,000 MILES
Engine coolant overheat warning. Poured coolant into radiator and then the overflow tank. Leaks from the driver's side under a big black component. Steam/smoke has come from the black box. Can see moisture along a long silver plate to the black box. Had my transmission repaired/replaced Nov 2010 and this is when the engine started overheating. Can see where the leak comes from everything on top is dry it is somewhere underneath but doesnt' leak constant. Can drive car
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Wednesday, August 1st, 2018 AT 7:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
You will have to pressure test the cooling system and track the leak back to it's origin.
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Wednesday, August 1st, 2018 AT 7:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MORRT5
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 CHEVROLET IMPALA
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 157,000 MILES
Drove this car 400 miles with the engine overheating. Now the mwchanic thinks it has a warped gasket with low compression on #5 cylinder. We were quoted a $1300 repair for head removal and gasket r&r. My 22 year old son has the car in tulsa, im in st louis. Should we repair this or scrap it? Ive had it 3 years and paid 3800dollars for it, put 30,000 miles on it. Not sure what to do. Hope you can help thanks
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Wednesday, August 1st, 2018 AT 7:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ERNEST CLARK
  • EXPERT
$1,300 is absolutely ridiculous! Run from this mechanic and don't look back! (An honest quote would've been around $700)

A used motor with about 30,000 miles for this vehicle should run you around $700-900. The labor for an install will set you back about $500. As long as you go to a reputable (and honest) shop, they'll give you a 12 month/12 thousand mile warranty. That's a much better option than replacing a head gasket on a motor that has 160K miles on it.

No matter how far you can get the price down for a head gasket swap, DON'T BOTHER. That motor is ready to poop out anyway, especially after driving it 400 miles while it's overheating. (DON'T DO THAT ON THE NEXT MOTOR!)

And to find a motor, check on-line. Just google motors in your area. You'll find one, and when you do, ask them to recommend a mechanic to do the install.
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Wednesday, August 1st, 2018 AT 7:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GWSCOTTY1
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 CHEVROLET IMPALA
  • 120,000 MILES
My car started to over heat and adding coolant wasn't helping. I replaced the thermostat and then the waterpump and still nothing. What should I do next? I ws told that sometimes Auto Zone sells parts that can be bad from the start should I try to see if maybe I should get another one? What should I do next?
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Wednesday, August 1st, 2018 AT 7:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
You replaced the two parts least likely to cause overheating. If you're having to add coolant have the engine tested for a leaking head gasket. Your mechanic will use a glass cylinder with two chambers partially filled with a special dark blue liquid. He will draw air through it from the radiator while the engine is running. If the cylinder head gasket is leaking, the liquid will turn bright yellow.
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Wednesday, August 1st, 2018 AT 7:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Do you need to keep adding coolant?
Are the cooling fans working correctly?
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Wednesday, August 1st, 2018 AT 7:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GWSCOTTY1
  • MEMBER
Yes the fans are working correctly
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Wednesday, August 1st, 2018 AT 7:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TIM REICH
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 CHEVROLET IMPALA
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 105,000 MILES
I have a 2003 chevy impala that gets hot after I drive it for 10 minutes. It does not get hot when the engine is being run hard.
We have replaced the thermostat, flushed the cooling system, changed the water pump, replaced the intake gaskets. We tested the coolant for any exhaust getting into the radiator with a snap on test kit.
Do you have any help for us? Thank you.
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Wednesday, August 1st, 2018 AT 7:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • EXPERT
Try bleeding it see below

Always bleed air from cooling system after replacing coolant. Set heater for maximum heat. Remove radiator cap. Loosen drain plug and remove drain bolt (if equipped) from engine block. Drain coolant reservoir. Fill coolant reservoir to MAX mark with 50/50 water-coolant mixture. Loosen bleed bolt and fill radiator up to base of filler neck. Close bleed bolt when coolant flows out without bubbles. Tighten bleed bolt. With radiator cap removed, start and operate engine to normal operating temperature. Add coolant if necessary and check for leaks.
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Wednesday, August 1st, 2018 AT 7:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WPOST41
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 CHEVROLET IMPALA
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 45,000 MILES
Something against the firewall on the passenger side is dripping water, and it drains the overfill bottle.
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Wednesday, August 1st, 2018 AT 7:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
If you coolant level does not go down then it is probably the condensation from the air conditioner working which will drip on pass side through drain hose. Otherwise have cooling system pressure checked.
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Wednesday, August 1st, 2018 AT 7:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WARHEADMIKE
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 CHEVROLET IMPALA
Heater problem
2003 Chevy Impala Front Wheel Drive Automatic

my temp goes up and down like a yo yo. Almost red lines then goes down. Just started doing this a few weeks ago. Also no hot air comes out. Does not seem like its the radiator. Thermostat maybe?
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Wednesday, August 1st, 2018 AT 7:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • EXPERT
I vote thermostat
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Wednesday, August 1st, 2018 AT 7:51 PM (Merged)

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