Car cranks but will not start up?

Hi Alberto,

Here is a video that does a pretty good job on how to test this. Also, a guide running through the basics of a crank sensor.

https://youtu.be/RvuzZJqQDf4

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-crank-shaft-angle-sensor-works

When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back. If you find this is not the issue and need more help, let me know. Thanks

The video was very useful thanks. I am trying to check the crankshaft sensor on the car the plugs were not all the way in that's why it didn't have spark now. the car turns on better than before but as soon a I press gas it shuts down.

So that sounds like you have unmetered air coming into the engine. Meaning you have air coming in that the MAP sensor is not accounting for so when you add more air by giving it gas, there is not enough fuel to account for this amount of air so it stalls.

Check for vacuum leaks while it is idling.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

It could be a weak spark but vacuum leaks are more likely.

So my the car starts perfect, but it stalls as soon as a give gas in parking sometimes shuts off. I fixed a water leak it had and cleaned the spark plugs which turn black, they are new they just keep carbonizing. still can't find the problem.

Your new plugs are turning black? If so, that is because you have a very rich fuel mixture. This is caused by leaking fuel injectors, high fuel pressure, and a number of other things outlined in this guide.

This is the cause of your idle issue so we need to read this and start going through these components. I would suggest checking for codes to see if it can point us to one of these areas before we just start testing or replacing parts.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-black-smoke

Okay, this took long I just got the codes and only one came out p1399pd.

Okay. This makes a little more sense.

This code is a random misfire and on this vehicle that means the EGR is most likely clogged.

I would remove the EGR valve and see what it looks like. They can be cleaned with the rest of the system but I would just replace the valve and clean what you can of the rest of the system.

This would explain the stalling and the black plugs.

Got a p1167 code for my car.

Okay. This could would make sense with the issue you described. This is the Air Fuel Ratio sensor.

This code is saying that either there is a wiring issue with it or the sensor has failed.

Attached is a test for it and a diagram showing where it is located. Let me know what you find. Thanks

Engine Performance problem
2002 Honda Accord 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive 145000 miles

My 2002 honda accord has a problem starting. It starts most of the time, but sometimes it will not start. It will just crank over, yhe starter will be turning the motor over, but the car won't start. This happens once in a while. Then with out doing anything to the car, the car will start. I took it to the honda dealer, and they couldn't figure out what was wrong, because on the three days the car stayed there, the honda started like a champ..

The computer and the ignition switch were suspected as being the problem, but I don't want to replace parts if that doesn't correct the problem. Any suggestions????

Hi ffer12,

When the engine could not be started, that is the time you need to perform testing to find out what is missing. Without knowing what is missing, it would not be possible to locate the source.

Click the " First things To Check Link" at bottom of post to get an idea what to look for.

When u start the car you have to keeo your foot on the gas to keep it running. If you let off the the gas the car will die. If you start it and dont touch the gas then the car will start and spudder an then die. If you drive with both feet and keep gas push it will stay running. I'm really strapped for cash right now and its my families only car so I really appreciate any help. It's a 2002 Honda Accord SE 2door, 4cyl and it has over 200000 miles on it and it seems that alot of things are getting rough when it got close to 200000. It done this about 6 months ago and stopped by the time I got to the auto parts store so i thought maybe bad gas because nothing showed up on the computer about it.Thanks again for any help and I will certainly be happy to make a donation once I am settled better and know how much this or even what this is.. Thank You, Scottie Strange

Based on your description, it sounds like one or two things are giving you trouble. The first thing to look for would be a vacuum leak. If none are found, then I would recommend replacing the idle air control valve. It is located on the throttle body and is held in by a couple screws.

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

I have a 2002 honda accord 3.0 Litre. Have been having a problem with the check engine light coming on for about a year. It was diagnosed as a sensor in the gass tank. It would go on and off by itself. Also there has been an SRS warning light and the side airbag light that comes on and off. The car also intermittently would sputter and die when i would put it in gear. I would have to rev the engine and put it in gear then it ran fine. the car now does not start. it may or may not roll over when i start the car. The gass gauge goes from showing that there is gass to as if the car ignition is off. I am thinking that there is an electrical problem and leaning towards a bad computer. Any other idea's?

What are codes from the computer?

Sorry no codes

if the check light has been coming on there will be set fault codes, you may need a better quality scanner to read them, you can also test the code system is working by introducing a known code, unplug the TPI try a start and then do a read it should show that TPI as a fault, if so the system is working as it should.

Drive it some place, park it, come back it cranks but will not start, the igniton key gets hot, no unuseual lights lite up on the dash, get out lock up the vehicle for about 15 minutes come back and it will start, what up with this......

Hi garywright324,

Could be caused by a faulty ignition switch. When it could not start, were the dash lights showing steadily or flickering? If the flickered or went out intermittently, the ignition switch is faulty.

There was a recall for the ignition switch and you can check with your nearest dealer for more details.

Thank you for the info.

Electrical problem
2002 Honda Accord 4 cyl Wheel Drive Type unknown Automatic 80000 miles
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I recently had my transmission replaced on my 02' Honda Accord LX at 78k miles. A day later my car would not start (battery purchased in the summmer). It started on a jump. The next day it would not start. it started on a jump. Now it is monday and Auto Zone stated my battery checked out and so did my alternator. The next morning it would not start, not even on a jump. I took it to the Honda dealership and they could not find anything wrong with it. They checked the batter, alternator and starter. They told me they could do a diagnostic on the ignition switch but it would be $100. I declined and drove to work. It would not start after work and had to leave it. The next morning it started and I drove it the the Honda Dealership where it has been for almost a week. The keep telling me it starts for them. I have a feeling it has something to do with when they took out and replaced the transmission. I may be wrong. The diagnostic on the ignition switch they talked about, my mechanic stated there is no diagnostic. They will simple try to start it up from time to time and just want $100 out of me (He used to me a Honda mechanic for years). When I asked them if they have checked the inition switch electrical part to the lock cylinder and the immobilizer. They hadn't. Their way is going over to the car and turning the key. They did mention they are able to remove the key when in nuetral and reverse. Something that has never happened to me. This has nothing to do with the car not starting. There are no clicks or nothing. No sound and all the dash lights light up. I just won't turn over when turning the key. Any ideas????

I'm a little confused why "your" mechanic isn't working on it.

It can't properly be diagnosed if it keeps starting, when it isn't starting, you can find where the power stops going to. That is the diagnosing that your mechanic states doesn't exist. Diagnosing is troubleshooting and is very real. Until the source is determined, only then can there be a determination on any connection to the transmission.

By asking them to check a list of possiblilities would be wasting your diagnositic dollars as they are obviously good at this moment because it starts.

My car will not start after it sits in the sun for a period of time, it will turn over but will not fire, then if i go back when the sun goes down and temperatures go down then it starts first try?

Hi fieldale,

When engine could not be started, you need to check what is missing. For this symptom, the most likely cause would be fuel is not getting to the cylinders. Check the fuel pump relay.

2002 Honda Acord 2Door - V6 Vtech, 150K

Hey guys, my Honda has not been feeling well as of late. Last year I got my transmission rebuilt and all seemed weel. Until a few days later when the car would not start. (It would act like it wanted to start and did not make the clicking sound like if a battery is dead, but made the normal starting sounds... it just would not kick in). I waited a few minutes as to not flood the engine, tried again and the car started fine. I did not think much of it until it happened again about a month later. It happens about once a month and is not the big of an inconvenience. That is until recently. Now, every once in a while (about once a month) when driving and I come to a stop, the car dies (like when driving a manual and forgetting to push the clutch when stooping) and then it won't start until I wait for another few minutes.

Any ideas as to what is going on?

scan for codes check fuel pressure and clean throttle plate with choke cleaner on both sides. if it won't start check your starter relay and battery condition.

Check you ignition switch, fuel pump relay and fuel pump, which could be failing.

I have a 2002 Honda Accord LX with 60,00, which has been very reliable until it didn't start one day. It has plently battery seeing that radio, lights and headlights work.

when I turn the key, the engine tries to start but it doesn't come alive. i'm not even sure which parts of the car areresponsible for starting the engine so im not sure what is wrong with it. thank you.

This could be quite a number of things. When you start to diagnose you want to look for spark and fuel. Is there spark at the plugs? Is there fuel flowing to the injectors and thus the cylinders? It could be a failed sensor or relay. Start with the basics mentioned above.

I have replaced the fuel pump fuel relay switch, distributor cap and rotor button. it started for a moment with starter fluid but not on its own.
Is there a fuel cut off switch i need to find or any suggestions?

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.

There isn't a fuel shut off. Can you hear the pump run? Have you confirmed fuel pressure?

First, I would check fuel pressure to confirm the pump is working. It could be working and not producing. Here is a quick link that shows how to check:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Here are the specific directions including specs:

Fuel Pressure Test

Special Tools Required
- Fuel pressure gauge 07406-0040001
- Fuel pressure gauge attachment 07VAJ-0040100

1. Relieve the fuel pressure.


See picture 1
2. Use a wrench to remove the fuel pulsation damper from its fitting, then attach the fuel pressure gauge attachment.


See picture 2

3. Attach the fuel pressure gauge.
4. Disconnect the vacuum hose (A) from the fuel pressure regulator (B) and pinch it closed with a clamp (C).
5. Start the engine and let it idle.
- If the engine starts, go to step 7
- If the engine does not start, go to step 6.

6. Check to see if the fuel pump is running: Remove the fuel fill cap and listen to the fuel fill Port while an assistant turns the ignition switch ON (II). You should hear the pump run for about 2 seconds when the ignition is turned ON (II).

- If the fuel pump runs, go to step 7.
- If the fuel pump does not run, test it.

7. Read the pressure gauge (with the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose disconnected and clamped). The pressure should be 320 - 370 kPa (3.3 - 3.8 kgf/sq.cm, 47 - 54 psi).

- If the pressure is OK and engine is running, go to step 8. If the engine is not running, repair the cause, then continue this test.
- If the pressure is out of spec, go to step 9.

8. With the engine running, unpinch and reconnect the vacuum hose, and read the gauge again. The pressure should be 260 - 310 kPa (2.7 - 3.2 kgf/sq.cm, 38 - 46 psi).

- If the fuel pressure is OK, the test is complete.
- If the pressure is out of spec, go to step 9.

9. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the pressure regulator again while you watch the pressure gauge. The pressure should rise when you disconnect the hose.

- If the pressure did not rise, replace the fuel pressure regulator.
- If the pressure rose, but all your readings were lower than specified, check for a clogged fuel filter and for leaks in the fuel lines.
- If the pressure rose, but all your readings were higher than specified, check for a pinched or clogged fuel return hose or line.

10. Reconnect the vacuum hose, remove the pressure gauge, and reinstall the fuel pulsation damper with a new washer. Tighten the fuel pulsation damper to 22 N.m (2.2 kgf.m, 16 lbf.ft).

NOTE: Disassemble and clean the fuel pressure gauge attachment thoroughly after use.

___________________________________________________

Since it starts with starting fluid, then you are getting spark. With that in mind, if fuel pressure is within spec, then we need to check for an injector pulse. Here is a link showing how that is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-fuel-injection-systems-work

Here are a few links that may help with testing:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

__________________________________________________

Next, check fuse number 1 in the under dash fuse / relay box. See picture 3

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-car-fuse-works

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

_________________________________________________

Do these tests and let me know what you find. Note: When checking the fuse, confirm there is power to it as well as out from it.

Take care,
Joe

2002 hon civic(1.7?) just konc out after starter??? My son has runn it out of gas an almost alot of times Could it be a fuel pump??
on very limited budget!
thanks. bernadette bmofield@hotmail.com

it had a overheating prob. and we kept changing hoses and had a previous water pump(1 yr. ?) saw sm amount of white on top of radiator cap when it was doing all that "getting hot"

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

The above link explains what to look for under such circumstances.

Once you get the source, let me know what is missing and we can get to resolving the problem.

Fuel pump tends to go bad much easier when fuel tank level is low most of the time and that could be the likely cause.

The overheating could have damaged the head gaskets and not allow the engine to start if the compression has dropped.

I believe you have a bad radiator cap as well, the presence of coolant on top of it indicates so.

thanks very much i'll let you know after tomarrows trouble shooting

Has the problem been resolved?

Thankyou so much for asking. My husband put in liquid glass napprox. 2 months ago and it's been running alright. (He had draininf fluids and all your supposed to do. Now the other day it started acting hot and we went to the spot to pick it up and were able to drive it about 4 minutes back home. Husband fiquired out that the water pump is hanging out? Augh. Looked up when i put in the water pump and timing belt (which was a yr. ago tomarrow) bought at local parts store it does have a warranty but its like 3-400 dollars to replace that! awe!

If the water pump is leaking, a pressure test should show some results.
It is difficult to say about the quality of after market parts so it is best to test them out.

he is researching