Engine will not crank - no starter operation?

It still sounds like a battery or cable problem.

Here is a guide so we can load test the battery ourselves:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Move the battery cables around mainly the positive one to see if you can get it to act up.

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers, Ken

Have you replaced it, or just tested it at the parts store? If you are certain it is not the problem then the only other thing I can thing of is the ground strap between the engine and frame either is missing or loose.

Battery tests in most places like autozone or similar are wrong more often than they are correct.
However, the issue sounds more like a corroded cable or bad connection, especially as jump starting it worked and the other owner just replaced the starter. GM battery cables love to corrode inside the terminal ends, they will look fine and if you try to measure voltage on them they will test okay, but the starter draws a lot of current and the corrosion will not allow that to transfer so you get clicking and no cranking of the engine. Usually a good tug or flexing of the cable will show the truth and the connector just peels off the end.

The anti-theft system on that car wouldn't do that. It would flash the security light and you would get nothing else, no clicks or power up front.

Just to add to this one; what is going on that you want to program your ECM? That takes the dealer or someone that has the expensive scan tool that will program. When the buy the calibration files from the manufacturer. So when it will not start is the security light on solid or flashing with the key in the run position?

It sounds like the security system is engaged. Remove the negative battery cable from the battery and touch it to the positive cable this will hard reboot the system by discharging the car's capacitors. Leave ti that way for 10 minutes. Reconnect the battery and then use the remove to unlock the car. This should reset the alarm.

Please let us know

Cheers, Ken

Hi,

That depends. Does the starter have proper voltage on the B+ and signal wire. If you look at the wiring diagram, the red wire should have 12 volts. The pink wire should have voltage when you are cranking the engine. If you don't then you have a wiring issue and butt connectors should be removed first then retested. It is too common for these to fail and the crimp did not actually get the wire secured and so it is an open circuit.

Here is a guide that gives a little more detail:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Let me know what you find and we can go from there. Thanks

Okay. Just so we are on the same page, when you say all the fuses are okay, did you replace or swap the relays? You said a run crank module, did you mean the run/crank relay? There is a starter relay but that feeds power to the starter relay. Both the relays need to be replaced at this point. IF that does not cure it or it has been done, we need to check voltage at the starter.

It is safe to assume we are not getting voltage but we need to trace it back through the system. Once we confirm the starter has no voltage, you go to the under-hood fuse block and see if there is voltage on the yellow wire that is going into the run/crank relay. If not, I suspect we have an issue in the BCM.

Just so you understand what my thinking is, when you turn the key on the ignition switch sends voltage to the BCM which sends voltage to the fuse block on the run/crank relay, which sends power to the ECM and this tells the ECM that it is ok to start the engine. So it sends voltage to the fuse block again on the starter relay. This relay turns on and sends this voltage to the starter that turns the engine.

The fact that this doesn't start when it is hot, means that one of the circuit boards in either the BCM or ECM has failed and when it is hot, it expands and doesn't make the connection any more. Then when it cools down the metal contracts and makes the connection again. This may sound crazy but it happens more than you would think.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Let me know what you find at the starter and then at the yellow wire with the key on and we can go from there. Thanks

Okay. Sorry if that was too much. Hopefully this helps simply it. Follow the screen shots below. Replace the relays first. Then start checking voltage at the number screen shots when the engine is cranking.

Depending on the results will determine the next step.