1986 Volkswagen GTI CLUTCH WONT RESIST

Tiny
REBEL30420
  • MEMBER
  • 1986 VOLKSWAGEN GTI
Transmission problem
1986 Volkswagen GTI 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Manual

PUT IN A NEW CLUTCH DISK, PRESSURE PLATE, CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING.
CLUTCH LEVER DOES NOT ACTUATE ON CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING? ANY IDEAS?
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Sunday, May 31st, 2009 AT 6:55 PM

17 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Check the clutch master cylinder and the slave
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Sunday, May 31st, 2009 AT 7:02 PM
Tiny
MIKE4MULA
  • MEMBER
First, whoever respnded about the master cylinder, did not understand that this is a clutch cable, not a hydraulic clutch. What did you find out about what you may have done wrong. I have put this all back together and have the feeling I left something out because the cable now has about 1 to 2" of free movement, and the throughout rod is traveling at least another inch before it hits the pressure plate. What did you do to solve this problem?
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Tuesday, March 13th, 2012 AT 12:38 AM
Tiny
EXOVCDS
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Hi,

What was the original reason for clutch replacement?

A missing release plate will cause a dead pedal, so I don't think you forgot it. :-)

Was the flywheel installed correctly on the pressure plate? Did the alignment pins line up?

A cracked release lever can cause pedal issues. As well as a cracked pedal cluster, which is
also common on these older vehicles.

If you don't find a reason on the outside, you will have to pull the tranny again to inspect the clutch kit.

Thomas
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Tuesday, March 13th, 2012 AT 2:25 AM
Tiny
MIKE4MULA
  • MEMBER
The original clutch was slipping and when we pulled it we discovered and oil soaked disk, due to a bad seal and leaking valve cover gasket. One or both migrated to the bell housing and contaminated the disk. Replaced the pressure plate and disk, as well as the throughout bearing. This car surprised me because the pressure plate bolts to the crank, then you install the plate that dis-engages the clutch (it has a loop retaining spring), then the clutch, and on top of all of this is the flywheel. Everything is aligned and the input shaft splines are engaged with the clutch. I replaced everything in the order it came off, and it just seems as though there is a half inch item missing; that's the amount of travel the throw-out pin moves before it hits the plate that disengages the clutch. Thoughts Thomas? I can't find an illustration that completely shows all the pieces in this system. Thanks for your input.
Mike
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Tuesday, March 13th, 2012 AT 3:19 AM
Tiny
MIKE4MULA
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Oh, by the way, I pulled out the pedal cluster and it was cracked in four places so I welded it back together with a little selective reinforcement. Lever isn't cracked. The only thing I can figure is the cable is stretched and never realized it before this.
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Tuesday, March 13th, 2012 AT 3:22 AM
Tiny
EXOVCDS
  • MEMBER
Mike,

The cables can become frayed and individual strands break, but not become stretched where
there is no visible sign aside from being longer.

So if you don't see any broken strands at either end of the cable, then the cable is OK.

Here's a link to a pic I posted on a different forum... I tried to save it and post it here earlier, but
my android tablet is causing issues.

https://www.2carpros.com/images/external/clutchkeverforce.jpg

Does the cable have a rubber stopper under the adjustment knob? Was there a rubber spacer
at the end where the cable clips to the lever at the tranny?

If one or both rubber spacers is missing... that could cause issues.

Thomas

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Tuesday, March 13th, 2012 AT 3:42 AM
Tiny
EXOVCDS
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Here's a good link for checking release arm position...

http://www.brokevw.com/releasearm.html

Thomas
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Tuesday, March 13th, 2012 AT 3:52 AM
Tiny
MIKE4MULA
  • MEMBER
Thomas, thanks for asking about the rubber spacers, and yes, both are in place. Your right about the cable strands, and what you say makes sense. That's an awfully large cable to stretch, and I didn't see any frayed strands so it's probably okay.
I'll check out your links and let you know if I see anything that could be the root of my problem.
Thanks again.
Mike
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Tuesday, March 13th, 2012 AT 4:10 AM
Tiny
MIKE4MULA
  • MEMBER
Your link to the release arm was very helpful, and the sketch assured me that I installed everything correctly. I'm all cleaned up and done for the night so I will go and measure the lever arm in the morning and compare it to the positions noted on the release arm page. Thanks again; very helpful.
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Tuesday, March 13th, 2012 AT 4:27 AM
Tiny
EXOVCDS
  • MEMBER
How much adjustment is left on the cable threads?

The second link indicates adjustment value of 12mm, I like
to adjust to between 8-10mm. By feel, after doing so many
I don't actually bother measuring distance.

Just as long as there is a bit of play when lifting the cable, that's
enough to provide clearance so that there's no load on any parts.

If the cable is self adjusting, then the ratchet mechanism might be bad.

I'll catch up with you tomorrow. During work hours as best I can.

Thomas
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Tuesday, March 13th, 2012 AT 5:23 AM
Tiny
MIKE4MULA
  • MEMBER
Thomas, it looks like the lever position and movement is correct, so thanks for your advice on this. May I ask another question? The brakes look to be locking up (won't release) and the brake pedal is not going all the way back to its normal position; it won't it the stop light switch. Should I pull the mater cylinder and check it? How about the power assist unit?
Thanks, Mike
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Tuesday, March 13th, 2012 AT 5:16 PM
Tiny
EXOVCDS
  • MEMBER
Sounds like the master cyl pistons aren't returning fully to allow the fluid
to return to the reservoir, causing fluid to get trapped & pressure to build.

Double check the pedal cluster position and the master cyl position.

Thomas
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Tuesday, March 13th, 2012 AT 7:26 PM
Tiny
EXOVCDS
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Forgot to mention. Haven't seen a boost cause this, but I guess it could.

Just like the clutch issue, if it was fine before the work, it should be after as well.

Thomas
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Tuesday, March 13th, 2012 AT 7:31 PM
Tiny
MIKE4MULA
  • MEMBER
Thanks for the opinion. We'll definitely get into the master cylinder. This will be a good exercise for my son to try out. He hasn't done a master cylinder before and this is a good opportunity. We know we have a slave cylinder leaking so can do both and get them both correct. Again, thanks for the advice.
Take care.
PS, can you recommend any other good sites for my son to check out for repairing VW's? I wish there were a VW version of RealOEM. Com. I like that site when looking up parts for the BMW.
Thanks, Mike
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Tuesday, March 13th, 2012 AT 10:52 PM
Tiny
EXOVCDS
  • MEMBER
If the master cylinder was never touched (only the pedal cluster)
than start with checking the rod adjustment at the pedal cluster.

Thomas
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Tuesday, March 13th, 2012 AT 11:59 PM
Tiny
MIKE4MULA
  • MEMBER
Thanks, we'll check that.
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Wednesday, March 14th, 2012 AT 12:19 AM
Tiny
RIVERMIKERAT
  • MEMBER
Mike: From the sounds of it, you need to flush the brake system on your VW. At least with straight fresh fluid. If you find sludge on the bottom of the master, or in any of the wheel cylinders or calipers, I would flush the system with denatured alcohol and then do so again with fresh fluid. After replacing the master and whatever hydraulic parts in the brake system have failed or become contaminated.

If you have drum rear brakes, you might also want to check to be sure the return springs are all functioning properly.
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Saturday, March 17th, 2012 AT 5:39 AM

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