Transmission only park and neutral

Tiny
MERCURYESCAPé
  • MEMBER
  • 2007 MERCURY MARINER
  • 3.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 218,000 MILES
When it's cold drives fine for about 2 miles then no gear except park and neutral overdrive light flashes.

My guess is the bands but before I part her out maybe there's something I missed here. Have already changed, flushed and refiled fluid, cleaned all plugs and such, checked fuses and shift link/cable checked the 2-4 high efficiency band and it's fine.

these are the codes it's throwing:

P0731
P21696
P1714
P17515
P0732
P1000

It started with going into limp mode only had 3rd gear did a fluid flush and refill and then lost all gears. Engine is a V6.
Sunday, March 28th, 2021 AT 10:31 PM

22 Replies

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
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Good morning,

No, to the bands. This sounds like the front pump or the torque converter may have failed not allowing any pressure build-up in the valve body.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/automatic-transmission-problems

I attached the procedure for testing the line pressure to verify the actual pressures.

I also attached the possibilities for the codes. There is no 21696 code at all. Can you double-check that?

This could be a solenoid issue but needs to be confirmed. You will need an advanced scan tool that can activate the solenoids to verify they are functioning correctly. I attached a wiring diagram as well for you of the transmission.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Roy

Line Pressure Test

CAUTION: Carry out Line Pressure Test before carrying out Stall Speed Test. If line pressure is low at stall, do not carry out stall test or further transaxle damage can occur. Do not maintain WOT in any gear range for more than 5 seconds.

CAUTION: The Transmission Tester must be removed from the transaxle and the vehicle harness connected to verify these pressures.

The Line Pressure Test verifies that the line pressure is within specifications.
1. Connect pressure gauge to line pressure tap.

Line Pressure Tap
imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

2. Start engine and check line pressures. Refer to following the Line Pressure Chart to determine if line pressure is within specifications.
3. If line pressure is not within specifications, carry out on-board diagnostics and pinpoint test, air pressure check and repair main control system or pump as required.

Line Pressure Chart (2.3L and 3.0L)
imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

Line Pressure Diagnosis
If the line pressure is low at idle in all ranges check the following items:
Low fluid level
Restricted inlet filter
Loose main body
Solenoid body or accumulator body to case bolts
Excessive leakage in pump
Case
Control bodies
Sticking main regulator valve or damaged inlet tube seal on inlet filter
Damaged gaskets or separator plate

If the line pressure is high at idle in all ranges then check the following items:
Main regular valve
Solenoid body and wiring harness
Run Quick Test referred to in electrical diagnosis
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Monday, March 29th, 2021 AT 5:18 AM
Tiny
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Well, maybe back when I worked as a mechanic I might have had access to an advanced scan tool but from my home garage not so much is there another way?

I decided to pull the valve body out to see if I could visibly see any blockage I'm not a transmission guy so this is relatively new to me should the springs be loose and bouncing around inside the valve body?

Also the solenoid on the face of the body plastic is loose don't know if that matters much.

I've attached a picture where the spring is loose and bouncing back and forth if you move it marked by the red arrow.
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Monday, March 29th, 2021 AT 8:51 AM
Tiny
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I would remove that and make sure it is not broken.

The first thing you should have done is the pressure test to see if the front pump is working.

Roy
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Monday, March 29th, 2021 AT 9:13 AM
Tiny
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So I take it a loose spring is a bad thing.
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Monday, March 29th, 2021 AT 4:45 PM
Tiny
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There should be some tension there.

Roy
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Monday, March 29th, 2021 AT 4:48 PM
Tiny
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Sorry if these are obvious questions like I stated before I'm new to transmission work so bare with me. The other side seems to have the tension and I pulled the springs to figure out why it doesn't have tension and for the life of me I don't see anything. Do you happen to have a diagram of the valve body tear down?
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Monday, March 29th, 2021 AT 5:01 PM
Tiny
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Is there a special sequence to starting after a valve body replacement? Before I go head first into blowing up my transmission I figured I would ask an expert first. I have replaced the valve body with a updated rebuilt one.
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Tuesday, March 30th, 2021 AT 6:56 PM
Tiny
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I posted the torque below for you for the valve body.

. Install the main control valve body assembly. Tighten the bolts in the sequence indicated.
Tighten to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.).

I also attached the bolt tightening sequence for the valve body as well.

Roy
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Tuesday, March 30th, 2021 AT 7:06 PM
Tiny
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Yes, I already did all that and tightened in correct sequence etc. I guess I wasn't very clear my apologies what I meant is there a special start up procedure? I.E. For resetting the transmission and or smooth pairing with new valve body. My Volkswagen Touareg had to relearn the throttle anytime you took the throttle body off. That's why I ask.
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Tuesday, March 30th, 2021 AT 7:59 PM
Tiny
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Okay, no, there is no start-up procedure or programming. It is a plug-and-play. Just verify the fluid level is correct.

Roy
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Wednesday, March 31st, 2021 AT 4:21 AM
Tiny
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Thanks for the help.
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Wednesday, March 31st, 2021 AT 11:37 AM
Tiny
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You are welcome.

Always glad to help.

Roy
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Wednesday, March 31st, 2021 AT 12:04 PM
Tiny
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Well, this is frustrating. Not sure where I went wrong here but replaced the valve body torqued it to spec and in correct sequence hooked it up put everything back together and it won't even try to start the relays click but no crank. Any ideas?
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Wednesday, March 31st, 2021 AT 1:13 PM
Tiny
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Okay, I attached a wiring diagram of the starting system for you to view.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Make sure the range sensor on top of the transmission is tight and the connector is all the way in. This would be the only connection with the starting system from this repair. I attached some pictures for you below.

Roy
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Wednesday, March 31st, 2021 AT 1:27 PM
Tiny
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Is this in drive or neutral the pictures? I've looked at it's hard to tell.
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Wednesday, March 31st, 2021 AT 9:00 PM
Tiny
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I cannot tell from that picture. Have someone in the car with their foot on the brake and start it and run through the gears. Then you can be sure what gear it is in.

Roy
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Thursday, April 1st, 2021 AT 5:00 AM
Tiny
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Update: I have replaced the transmission valve solenoid and valve body after one of my buddies told me that was the issue since he has more experience with transmissions than myself. Unfortunately it seems to only want to shift gears when the engine is cold once warmed up it has a problem with shifting into any gear, then if I turn it off open and close the driver door and lock letting everything power down fully. Then when I start it and put into gear it works for about 200 feet then fails again. Any thoughts my buddy is stumped?
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Tuesday, April 20th, 2021 AT 7:32 PM
Tiny
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Okay, back to the beginning. Did you ever check the line pressure as I suggested? This sounds like you have an internal failure but you need to confirm it.

Roy
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Wednesday, April 21st, 2021 AT 3:03 AM
Tiny
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I got a pressure testing kit today haven't had a chance to do the test yet but scanned for codes and only got one code back p0720 the oss sensor, but would that cause my issues?
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Thursday, April 22nd, 2021 AT 3:38 PM
Tiny
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No, it will not.

Do the line pressure test and keep me updated.

Roy
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Thursday, April 22nd, 2021 AT 4:05 PM

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