Starting problems

Tiny
ROBERT HAZARD
  • MEMBER
  • 1991 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • 5.7L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 230,000 MILES
Some times the engine will not start unless I spray starting fluid in the top of the carburetor.
Monday, August 7th, 2017 AT 8:54 PM

23 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,861 POSTS
Hello,

It sounds like a classic fuel pump going out. Here is a guide that will show you what you are in for when doing the job and some diagrams (below) of what it will take on your car.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-electric-fuel-pump

you will need to jack the car up.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/jack-up-and-lift-your-car-safely

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken
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Thursday, August 10th, 2017 AT 10:31 AM
Tiny
ROBERT HAZARD
  • MEMBER
  • 17 POSTS
Hey Ken thanks for all the help I bought the part from rockauto save me fifty dollars I ordered it on wed it came Thursday morning got the part into day no problems. Thanks again Robert.
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Tuesday, October 10th, 2017 AT 8:47 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,861 POSTS
Nice work, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.

Cheers, Ken
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Wednesday, October 11th, 2017 AT 10:17 AM
Tiny
SLIKISRIK
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1991 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 139,000 MILES
Electrical problem
1991 Chevy Suburban V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 139000 miles

replace fue sendng unit and pump new filter new injectors new wires to injectors used ecm. But the truck still will not start. The injectors will not fire unless I run a positive wire to ijector wires, but it dumps too much fuel new diaphram. I tried pulling codes on old ecm got nothing on the ecm I just replaced I got code 12 18 28 and still injectors will not spray. Oh and I have plenty fuel to the metering valve any suggestion im lost!
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Wednesday, October 11th, 2017 AT 10:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
With key on engine off you should have battery positive power at the injectors?
If not check wiring from fuse box and ignition switch, check fuses and fusible links by the starter solenoid
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Wednesday, October 11th, 2017 AT 10:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BENDUCKING1
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1991 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • 175,000 MILES
Suburan won't start on its own. It will run if I pour gas in the throttle body but no gas flow out of the injectors. Has been sitting for 2 years. Can hear fuel pump run and there is flow at the throttle body.
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Wednesday, October 11th, 2017 AT 10:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Check fuel pressure first must be 9-11 psi at least.
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Wednesday, October 11th, 2017 AT 10:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BUSTERNEUTON
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1991 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 110,000 MILES
Engine Mechanical problem
1991 Chevy Suburban V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic 110000 miles

I left the suburban sitting for a while and the battery finally went dead. Unfortunately, I left it there for a few more months. I finally got around to cranking it up, I charged the battery, and it just wouldn't turn over. I changed all the spark plugs, nothing. I changed the in-line fuel filter, nothing. I changed the fuel pump relay, nothing. The only way it will run is if I stand there and keep spraying the intake with starter fluid. I see gas driping from the injectors but it just won't keep running. I have never had a problem with this truck until I let it sit there. Can you help me?
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Wednesday, October 11th, 2017 AT 10:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel pump and also look for injection pulses.
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Wednesday, October 11th, 2017 AT 10:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BUSTERNEUTON
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
The fuel pump is what I was going to attack today, but could you tell me how to check the fuel pressure?
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Wednesday, October 11th, 2017 AT 10:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
You need to find the fuel pressure test port-that's where you hook up.
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Wednesday, October 11th, 2017 AT 10:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BRIANJANSEN
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 1991 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • 250 MILES
My 1991 Chevy Suburban keeps blowing the ECMb fuse. Last Saturday the car started and ran for a minute or two. It stalled when I turned on the windshield washer. I couldn't get it started again, but the starter did continue to turn when I turned the key. I replaced the fuse but it blew again on the first attempt to start the car. I checked the distributor and replaced it and the rotor because two of the posts were spinning. A new fuse and it started. I let it run in the driveway for about 10 minutes. I turned the car off and tried to start it again and the fuse blew again. Called a local shop that specializes in electrical work. They told me it sounds like a short between the ignition switch and the fuse. I asked about using a stronger fuse just to avoid a tow charge and drive it in. They told me it would be fine. It has since blown 15 and 20 amp fuses (rated for 10amp). I've checked all the wires I can reach, both under the dash and under the hood. I don't see anything worn. Any ideas anyone? I have very little experience working under the hood other than changing a belt or the oil. Thanks in advance.
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Wednesday, October 11th, 2017 AT 10:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
When fuses are shorting out, NEVER use a larger capacity fuse. It can result in the electrical wirings starting a fire or melting and causing all the wires to be fused together.

The ECM-B fuse provides power to the fuel pump relay, fuel pump switch and PCM. Any of these components or their wiring can be faulty causing the shorting.
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Wednesday, October 11th, 2017 AT 10:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BRIANJANSEN
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Thanks, KHLow2008. I appreciate your help. 2 things - can you define PCM a little more? I've tried Autozone and O'Reilly and neither website recognizes that as a part. Second - is there somewhere online I can go to get pictures of an engine so I can see where all these parts are located? That would help tremendously.
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Wednesday, October 11th, 2017 AT 10:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
You're welcome.

PCM = Power Control Module also known as ECM (Engine Control Module ) meaning the engine computer. It is located under right side of dash.

The ECM would be less likely to be the cause as they seldom shorts out.

Which engine variant do you have, 5.7 or 7.4 L?

The fuel pump circuit would be more likely to be the cause. As the wires runs from fron to rear of vehicle, there could be a possibility of some wires being damaged to external elements such as abrasion or rodent damages. Intermittent shorting is never easy to detect and a stroke of luck helps.

Fuel pump relay is located on right side of firewall in relay box.

I could not find any detailed diagrams and description of the relay box or other components.

Unplug the fuel pump relay.
Use a 10 A fused wire apply battery voltage to terminal B.
Alternatively you can use the fuel pump test connector locatred near relay box to connect the wire.
Start engine.
If fuse blows, you have a short in the fuel pump circuit.

Another components wiring that could cause the shorting of the fuse would be the fuel pump oil pressure switch, located at left rear of engine for 5.7L and at front side of engine block near oil pan for 7.4L.
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Wednesday, October 11th, 2017 AT 10:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BRIANJANSEN
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Thanks again. I have the 5.7L. I'll run the wires tomorrow and let you know what I find. I truly appreciate your help. I'll keep looking. I just dread that by the time I finally find the problem I will have replaced a bunch of parts that didn't really need replacing.
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Wednesday, October 11th, 2017 AT 10:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
Don't replace any parts until they are confirmed to be faulty.

Shortings usually are due to wiring faults and the only component that can cause it would be the fuel pump.

Btw if your vehicle is equipped with dual fuel tanks, switch to the other pump and retest.
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Wednesday, October 11th, 2017 AT 10:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SKATHOL
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 1991 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 225,000 MILES
Hi,
I have a 1991 Chevy Suburban 2500. It's problem is that when the outside temperature is extremely hot, say over 100 degrees (Socal in September), then after the Engine has been running for 1/2 hour to an hour, the engine just dies. It won't crank the starter motor either. Let the car sit for 1/2 hour to an hour, and it will start right up and go again - for a while at least. I've never had this failure in cooler outside temperttures, as in winter time. Does this sound like an ECM problem? Will an ECM failure also stop the engine from even trying to start? I have had the car towed 3 times now, problem is, by the time it gets to a mechanic - it's running fine again. Hope you can help.
Thanks,
Shawn
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Wednesday, October 11th, 2017 AT 10:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS
How long since a tune-up? Any applicable trouble codes? When the problem occurs can you turn the crank or flywheel by hand.

Check the starter circuit. I have heard of chevy hot start issue. They used to use a ford starter relay, place high on fender lining, wire to starter.
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Wednesday, October 11th, 2017 AT 10:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SKATHOL
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Hi JDL - No trouble codes - but problem is bigger than starter circuit. I'll be driving down the road, then engine dies - so ignition system also killed. Engine doesn't even try to start, not even a solenoid click like you would hear with a near-dead battery. Then, 1/2 hour later, fires right up.
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Wednesday, October 11th, 2017 AT 10:18 AM (Merged)

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