Radiator fan problems

You should have two fans. Is that correct?

Basically, these fans are run through a number of relays. The fan that comes on when the AC is on is run through a condenser fan relay and then the other is a radiator fan relay. Both of these are powered through a fan relay.

So, we need to start by checking the fan relay.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

All of these are grounded and controlled by the ETACS ECU. Basically, this is the climate control module.

So, let's start with checking the relays and then we can go from there.

Thanks

Yes, that is correct, two fans. Checking the relays now.

Only one socket on this relay lights up, I also tested the other connectors (not sure what it's called), and not all of them light up either. I also tried to record the whining sound that I hear when the battery is on but not the engine. The relay itself looks fine.

Unfortunately, we are going to have to test the relays again. Sorry I wasn't more specific, but we need to check for ground on a couple of the terminals.

This means we need to move the clip on the test light to battery positive and then touch terminal 4 and 3 of the 5-pin relay.

However, what I would do before we get into this type of testing because it is confusing on what is power and ground, I would pick up replacement relays and just swap them out. They are pretty cheap so that is far easier than testing each one.

If that does not repair, it then we need to check and make sure each fan can actually turn on.

It is unlikely that both fans would fail at the same time. Also, it is unlikely that the radiator and condenser fan relay would fail at the same time. Which is why I think it will be the fan control relay (the 5-pin relay).

However, both fan motors did look in rough shape so that is a possibility. Maybe one of them failed a while ago and the vehicle has just been making it through on one fan. Now the other failed.

Again, I suspect the relay but let's try this and go from there.

Thanks

I appreciate the help, no need to apologize. I don’t know much at all about cars, but I learn fast and will understand once it’s explained to me. I take it by connect to the negative I was just basically seeing if the light worked. Now by connecting to the positive and touching specific terminals and it lights up, it tells us it is grounded. Is that right? I was assuming the same thing; it would be very coincidental if both fans stopped at one time. I Doordash, so I drive a lot and I never noticed anything wrong with my air conditioning not working nor has my engine ever overheated while idling until now. I feel that if one went out, I would at least notice my engine running maybe slightly hot or my air not being as cold, but I haven’t until all at once.

I will stop by Meijer here in a bit and pick up a 5-pin relay, is this the only one I would want to try swapping? Then I will test again.

I think that is the place to start is with the 5 pin relay. That way we can eliminate that and start moving onto what else would cause both fans.

However, if that does not fix it then we are going to have to make sure they both come on. I will explain how to jump the relay for each fan if it comes to that.

Thanks for the update and let us know what happens and we can go from there.

Meijer doesn’t have any relays, so I’ll have to go to AutoZone tomorrow.

Okay. Thanks for the update. If you can't find one quickly then I am attaching the testing for the actual relay. It is a little confusing, but we can work through it. The fan control relay (5 pin) is the last 2 attachments.

AutoZone was not very helpful, the 5-prong relay i got fit into the spot, but it was not the exact same relay because we couldn’t find any part number. So, it plugged in correctly, but the fan did not come on. I'm not sure how universal the relays are and if that was the correct one to use, as the body of it was larger even though the prongs lined up correctly in the spot. Here is testing the fan control relay while attached to the positive side of the battery. Only 4 lights up. Should I test the condenser and radiator relays too?

Okay. So that means the ground for pin 4 is good.

Let's try something different. I am attaching the wiring diagrams from the OEM. They are a little better layout.

When you are testing electrical issues with a test light you are looking for a complete circuit which means the light will turn on.

So, you connect the clip to battery positive and in order to get the light to turn on, you need a good ground for the probe.

If you are probing the power source like pin 1, 2, 5 then the light will not come on.

In order to test these, you need to connect the clip of the test light to ground and probe the power source. This will complete the circuit.

However, let's try and jump the fan relay and condenser fan relay just to see if the fans come on.

Turn the key on and jump 4 to 3 on the condenser fan relay.

Then on the 5 pin, let's jump 5 to 4.

Lastly on the radiator fan 4 to 2. When the key is on both fans should be running.

You lost me now, I think. Or maybe not. What I think you are saying is to attach the clip of the test light to negative and touch 4 and then 3 on the condenser, then 5 to 4 on 5 pin, and then 4 to 2 on the radiator fan. All with the car turned to just the battery on.

Or do you mean connecting the wiring?

I figured out what you meant and went out and got copper wire to jump them.

Nothing when I did this. However, these things are fried. The left one is melted around the prong, here are both connections directly to the fans.

Yep. That is what I meant. Good job.

So, if that doesn't change anything then the relay is not the issue.

This means we need to check the power at the motor. Which means we would have a connection issue which I suspect you found. Those connectors do not look good.

Checking power will confirm this. Basically, we need to back probe the fans and find out if you are getting 12 volts to them when you should. What I would do is hook up the meter and then start the engine. When it warms up the fan should be on, and you should have voltage. If you have voltage but no fan, then the motor is most likely the issue.

Again, these connections do not look good so I suspect we will find that is an issue.

Before you just replace the connector, I would run 12 volts to the motors and make sure they are able to come on.

Ironically, I just picked these up 10 minutes ago to hook the fan directly to the battery. These will work, right? I believe the pictures I showed were the receiving connectors to the fan, not the one going from the battery.

Those are perfect. I would then use what is called a T pin and back probe the connector and then just clip those to the T pin (safety pin).

Or if you can take the connector off and those will clip to the terminals of the fan but those will make it much easier.

Correct. Those pictures of the terminals that did not look good appears to be of the ones off the fan.

So, stick the pins in there and then attach the wires?

Both fans work perfectly when attached directly! So even though the motor connection itself looks fried, it’s actually the connector that goes from battery to fan that is causing all of the issues.

So, would I just splice and connect a new connector for both? The connector that attaches to the motor itself is actually working, and it’s welded onto the metal.

That is great. You may end up needing to replace the fans anyway. I would suggest you start with the connectors because that has to be corrected.

However, if the new connector does not make a good connection with the motor connection, then that will require the motor to be replaced even though it works. Unfortunately, those connectors on the motor itself cannot be replaced.

Here is a guide that will show exactly how to change the connector:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PxA5wczsCVo

I would start with the connector and if that does not work then unfortunately the motor would be next.

If I do need to replace the motors, is this pretty straightforward that I would be able to do myself?

The fan on this one is not that bad. They come out as an assembly, so I am attaching the process.

Take a look at this info below in case you need it.

Thanks

I went to AutoZone, and they didn’t have any that looked like it would fit. I’m going to try Walmart next. I wish there was a universal way to attach it without a special connector.

Yeah. A universal may not work. Try this site.

https://findpigtails.com/connectors/mitsubishi/lancer/2010/

Otherwise, the best bet is to try a salvage yard to find the harness and cut it off.

My dad's car mechanic was able to order it for me, so it should be here in a couple days. He gets my dad parts at cost.

Perfect. Sounds good. Thanks for the update. Just a note that I would suggest soldering the connector in and not using those wire connectors.

If this connection was already corroded, then we need to use the best type of connection so that it doesn't happen again.

Let us know how it turns out.

Thanks

So, I’ve been on vacation and ended up just ordering the parts on eBay. Anyway, when I splice these how do I make sure I don’t shock myself? If the car is off, is the battery off?

If you are in doubt, you always disconnect the battery negative cable and secure it away from any grounding point.

Unfortunately, it did not work, just the same whining sound as before. The new connector has thinner wire that does not appear to be copper.

Wait just a minute, one of them is working, and my air conditioning is working while idle again. However, the other has not come on. I did a lap around the neighborhood and have now parked and idling to see if the engine would heat up or my air conditioning would stop working. It has been almost 10 minutes and my engine temperature is still a little below halfway to H, so normal.

That is great. Most of the time if the A/C is on then both fans will be on but if the temperature is low then only the condenser fan will be on when the A/C is on. So, if that is enough to keep the engine cool as well then, the radiator fan will stay off.

Sounds like you got it so great work. Thanks for keeping us updated with this as you work through it.

That’s sort of the conclusion I’ve reached as well. Thank you so much for your help, it is irreplaceable.

Unfortunately, they stopped working. I’m very upset because I’m trying to avoid a giant bill that I simply don’t have the money for. Going to take a look in a bit at the wires

Hi,

I noticed you haven't been contacted for a couple of days. Have you been able to make any progress?

Let me know. Also, let me know what you have done so far to check the fans.

Take care,

Joe

Well, I have redone the wiring 3 times now and it keeps quitting on me. The new pigtail is beginning to melt now too.

Hi,

If the wiring is melting, either we are drawing too much amperage, or the wiring is a smaller gauge than needed.

The harness, which was used as a replacement, is it an original equipment part? Can you take a couple of pics of it and upload them for me to see?

Also, is the fuse for the circuit the correct amperage?

Let me know.

Joe

The harness for both fans was from the factory, both burned up after 10 years. The replacements I used were not original equipment parts, they were harnesses that I got on eBay. However, I’m still having the same problem of overheating.

Hi,

My biggest concern is the wiring you used. I read back through this post when Kenny was working with you. You indicated the wiring is not copper and is thinner. If I had to guess, I would say the new harness is the problem. If the wiring is thinner and not copper, there is a good chance it can't handle the electrical load. This can cause a fire. Have you checked for continuity in the new harness wires?

Joe

I had a new fan assembly put in and I’m still having the issue of only one fan kicking on. Relays and fuses are all fine, what else could be preventing the other fan from coming on?

Based on what I’ve gathered, I believe the fan assembly was not the issue at all nor was the wiring. I think the real issue has been a bad cooling sensor causing the radiator fan not to kick on and making the A/C fan stay on and overwork melting the wires.

Hi,

That is a very good possibility. However, the wiring shouldn't melt down. A fuse should fail before the wiring melts. If the wire gauge they used to make the harness is too light, it can do what you described and eventually cause a fire.

Is it possible for you to take a pic of the wiring and upload it so I can see what is happening?

Let me know. Also, let me know if the sensor takes care of the issue or if I can help in any way.

Take care,

Joe