Fuel pump not working?

Tiny
DUSTIN WILSON
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 FORD F-150
  • 5.0L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 135,538 MILES
Changed air sensor, solenoid, distributor fully, gas pressure regulator, ignition on column, checked all fuses, throttle sensor. Still will not run. Fires cracks over, tries to start with starting fluid, fuel pump kicks on. Tried the release pressure valve on the fuel rail nothing comes out.
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Monday, May 11th, 2020 AT 2:16 PM

22 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi Dustin,

If you aren't getting fuel to the fuel rail, that is the problem. You said you hear the pump running but if there is no fuel at the rail, chances are the pump is bad. Even though it is running, it may not be producing enough pressure to run the engine.

Also, have you checked the fuel filter to make sure it isn't plugged? I attached a pic below if it's location. It's along the frame rail, driver's side.

Let me know. Also, I need to know if you have dual fuel tanks.

Let me know.

Joe
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Saturday, January 16th, 2021 AT 12:25 PM
Tiny
DUSTIN WILSON
  • MEMBER
It has duel tanks and already changed fuel filter.
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Saturday, January 16th, 2021 AT 12:25 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
If the filter is new, disconnect the supply end of the filter (from pump) and place a rubber hose over the other end of the filter and place that into a fuel tank. Turn the key on to prime the pump. See if you get any fuel.

I suspect the pump is bad. You can try what I said above or remove the pump and bench test it.

Let me know.
Joe
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Saturday, January 16th, 2021 AT 12:25 PM
Tiny
DUSTIN WILSON
  • MEMBER
New fuel pump worked, but ran to another issue now in have no fire.
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Saturday, January 16th, 2021 AT 12:25 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

Wow, you aren't having much luck. The first thing I recommend is checking for diagnostic trouble codes. The ignition system isn't overly complex, but there are a few components that can fail and I don't want you buying parts that aren't needed.

Here is a quick video showing how to retrieve diagnostic trouble codes:

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

I realize most people don't own a scanner, but if you do, scan it. If you don't, see if you can get one from a parts store. Often times they will lend or rent one to you.

Let me know what codes are found.

Joe
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Saturday, January 16th, 2021 AT 12:25 PM
Tiny
DUSTIN WILSON
  • MEMBER
I had fire until the neighbor guy next door tried a test on the outside using a jumper wire and a meter but after that is when I lost getting spark to coil.
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Saturday, January 16th, 2021 AT 12:25 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
What kind of a test? What was he connected to? And any info you can provide that may help me.

Joe
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Saturday, January 16th, 2021 AT 12:25 PM
Tiny
DUSTIN WILSON
  • MEMBER
This is test I was telling you about:
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Saturday, January 16th, 2021 AT 12:25 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

He was trying to retrieve codes. However, you don't need to connect to the battery, so I'm not sure what has happened.

Do me a favor. Follow this link and see what codes are found:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/ford-lincoln-mercury-obd1-1995-and-earlier-diagnostic-trouble-code-definition-and-retrieval

Also, in the under hood fuse box, locate the EEC relay/PCM power relay. Switch it with a different relay with the same part number. Also, I need you to check two fuses. See the attached pic for locations.

Let me know what you find. Also, I need to know if the fuel pump is turning on.

Joe
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Saturday, January 16th, 2021 AT 12:25 PM
Tiny
DUSTIN WILSON
  • MEMBER
Okay, sorry taken so long to get back. So changed MAP sensor and module on side distributor fuel pump relay. Also truck fired right up timed it got it in time. The only deal is got to give it gas to keep running.
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Saturday, January 16th, 2021 AT 12:25 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

Sounds like you made progress. As far as the low idle, have you checked for engine vacuum leaks? You have been working on it for awhile, so it's possible that something was disconnected. That is what I would check for first. Here is a link you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Next, the idle speed is controlled by the idle air control valve. It is located on the throttle body and responsible for maintaining engine idle speed. I attached a pic if it. See pic 1.

Here is a link that explains how to service one:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/idle-air-control-valve-service

Here is a link that explains in general how one is replaced:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-idle-speed-control-motor-iac

__________________

Here are directions specific to your vehicle for replacement. The remaining pics correlate with the directions.

__________________

1995 Ford Truck F 150 4WD Pickup V8-302 5.0L
Removal and Replacement
Vehicle Powertrain Management Fuel Delivery and Air Induction Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic Service and Repair Removal and Replacement
REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT
Idle Air Control Valve

pic 2

REMOVAL

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.

2. Disconnect the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve assembly connector from the wiring harness.

3. Remove the two IAC valve retaining bolts.

4. Remove the IAC valve and gasket.

IAC Valve and Gasket

pic 3

INSTALLATION

NOTE: If scraping is necessary, be careful not to damage sealing areas of IAC valve or throttle body gasket surfaces, or drop material into throttle body, or intake manifold.

1. Make sure that both throttle body and IAC valve gasket surfaces are clean.

2. Install gasket and IAC valve.

3. Install retaining screws. Tighten to 8-11 Nm (71-97 in lb).

4. Connect electrical connector for the IAC valve.

5. Reconnect negative battery cable.

NOTE: When the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the powertrain control module relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 10 miles or more to relearn the adaptive strategy.

____________________________________

Let me know if that helps.

Take care,
Joe
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Saturday, January 16th, 2021 AT 12:25 PM
Tiny
DUSTIN WILSON
  • MEMBER
Yeah already replaced. Start looking for a vacuum leak but was wondering got a code for heated oxygen sensor maybe be a problem?
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Saturday, January 16th, 2021 AT 12:25 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

That can cause issues with fuel mixtures and yes it can cause a rough idle, stalling, poor fuel economy and so on. If your scanner has a live data setting, let me know what the short term fuel trims are (STFT) at operating temp. That may indicate if there is a vacuum leak. Also, let me know the specific code you found. That will help point me in the right direction as well.

Joe
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Saturday, January 16th, 2021 AT 12:25 PM
Tiny
DUSTIN WILSON
  • MEMBER
Codes were 545, 42, 153 and 154.
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Saturday, January 16th, 2021 AT 12:25 PM
Tiny
DUSTIN WILSON
  • MEMBER
Was also wondering what about the EGR valve?
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Saturday, January 16th, 2021 AT 12:25 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
The 153 and 154 are both o2 sensor related and specific to the same sensor, bank 2 sensor 1. Have you replaced that sensor? It is a heated oxygen sensor. There is no activity, so either there is a sensor issue or the wiring/ECM issue. The 42 is related to the bank 1 sensor 3.

Interestingly, I also found code 42 could be related to a constant rich fuel mixture. Have you checked fuel pressure?

Joe
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Saturday, January 16th, 2021 AT 12:25 PM
Tiny
DUSTIN WILSON
  • MEMBER
Got fuel pressure and haven't replaced the sensor is that on manifold.
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Saturday, January 16th, 2021 AT 12:25 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Which sensor are you referring to?
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Saturday, January 16th, 2021 AT 12:25 PM
Tiny
DUSTIN WILSON
  • MEMBER
Heated oxygen sensor.
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Saturday, January 16th, 2021 AT 12:25 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

There are three of them. Banks 1 and 2 are at the end of the exhaust manifold. Sensor 3 is where the Y pipe comes together. See the attached pics.

Joe
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Saturday, January 16th, 2021 AT 12:25 PM

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