No power to fuel pump or coil

Tiny
TNBIGFOOT
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 TOYOTA CAMRY
  • 150,000 MILES
Have checked timing belt, in time. Ohmed the two pickups in the distrubitor and they read in spec. Another site showed two relays in the fuel pump circuit, first the EFI relay is pulling in when the key is in the run position. If I am looking at the correct relay (the other site called it the "circuit interrupting relay") in the passenger kick panel med size black relay just to the right of the ECU. I am getting very frustrated at not being able to find out what things might keep the CIR from pulling in.
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Monday, May 20th, 2013 AT 1:25 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
How about you tell us what it is that your trying to fix.
Does the car run?
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Monday, May 20th, 2013 AT 1:43 PM
Tiny
TNBIGFOOT
  • MEMBER
The car was not running and I replaced the fuel pump. It started and ran good. After the second start it died from 2000 rpm and I have checked and rechecked everything I can think of. There is no power to the pump when you turn the key run for the 2 sec.. I also checked the distrubitor pickups with an ohm meter and the ohm ok. Also ohmed the coil and it looks ok. Checked voltage at the primary of the coil and no reading when the key is in run or start. Do you know where I could find a schematic for the car? I am pretty good at wiring and troubleshooting need to know how the circuit works.
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Monday, May 20th, 2013 AT 1:55 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
Some of those don't power the fuel pump until they are cranked.

OK, we have to start from the beginning. I can help you here but you have to do things my way. Perform ALL of these tests and post the results and we will go from there.

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
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Monday, May 20th, 2013 AT 2:52 PM

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