1997 Nissan Pathfinder has air fuel fire but wont start! Pl

Tiny
JIVETURKEY
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 NISSAN PATHFINDER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 137,000 MILES
I own a 1997 nissan pathfinder 3.3 litter v6. It ran fine about a week ago, my check engine light was on when I tested it at auto zone the codes said knock sensor and misfire on #1 cyclinder like I said it ran fine when I would try to accelerate pass somebody on the highway I would hear a little valve chatter and I could tell an occasional miss from time to time, I changed the spark plugs and it seemed to get better,
A few days ago my sister inlaw drove it to the bank and it died while she was waiting in line, I towed it home found a faulty #1 spark plug wire, so I replaced wires rotor and distributor cap,
My spark plugs are sparking my fuel pump is pumping but when I turn it over thats all it does is turn over real fast it doesn't even act like it wants to start, I sprayed starting fluid into the intake manafold and still nothing, now if it tried to start that might mean that my fuel pressure regulator might not be working but since it didn't what could be the problem please dont tell me that my timing jumped and if it did how would I tell?
please help its a long walk to work
Do you
have the same problem?
Yes
No
Wednesday, August 13th, 2008 AT 6:59 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
You have fuel and spark-valve timing could be the problem-remove distributor have helper crank engine over is the rotor spinning?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, August 16th, 2008 AT 3:20 PM
Tiny
JIVETURKEY
  • MEMBER
The rotor spins,
I took the top timing belt cover off and confirmed that my # 1 piston was at TDC with a clothes hanger and aligning the 0 degree notch on my cam shaft pulley with the arrow indicator on the bottom timing cover, at this point my rotor was pointing at the #1, which should mean compression stroke, right? Then I took the cam pulley off making sure not to move it from TDC there wasnt a mark on my oil pump housing like the book said there would be so I made one. My left cam and right cam were about two teeth away from there marks ( jumped time right?) I took the old belt off moved the cams back to there marks, installed new belt fit perfectly , adjusted belt tension to speck with new belt tensioner after rotating cam twice like the book said, put everything back together and it was hard to start I moved the distributor until it started but then it ran rough so I moved it until it ran good then I drove it a couple of blocks when to accelerate (4000 rpm) and it died and wouldnt start, the book mentions that it will run rough for 15-20 minutes while the PCM relearns stuff it also says to get it started let it warm up turn the engine off turn the PCM control of the timing off by turning the screw on the PCM to self diagnostic mode with the ignition on then start engine let it idle (it wouldnt idle before I turned the PCM off) then adjust the timing, so I did all that, but when I put a light on it my distributor was all the way advanced ( to get it to start ), and I couldn't see any of the notches as I rotated the distributor half way I could see the last mark (TDC is first from the left) then it died ( it should have ran better as I got closer, even if it did I with the distributor turned all the way I don, t know if it would have hit the TDC mark, I was almost sure that I put the timing belt on right! Its an interference motor but how could it run right sometimes with bent valves? What did I do wrong or could it be something wrong that I missed?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, August 17th, 2008 AT 8:55 PM
Tiny
JONNYBONES
  • MEMBER
Sounds like one of two things crank position sensor or cam position sensor. Crank sensor is on top of bellhousing behind motor and is hell to get to, the cam sensor is an integrated part of the distributer. Good Luck!
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, September 6th, 2009 AT 6:55 PM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Recommended Guides