Has air fuel and fire but will not start

Tiny
JIVETURKEY
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 NISSAN PATHFINDER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 137,000 MILES
I own the vehicle listed above with 3.3 litter v6. It ran fine, then about a week ago my check engine light was on. When I tested it at AutoZone the codes said knock sensor and misfire on number one cylinder like I said it ran fine when I would try to accelerate pass somebody on the highway I would hear a little valve chatter. Also, I could tell an occasional miss from time to time. I changed the spark plugs and it seemed to get better.
A few days ago my sister in-law drove it to the bank and it shut off while she was waiting in line. I towed it home found a faulty number one spark plug wire. So I replaced wires rotor and distributor cap.
My spark plugs are sparking my fuel pump is pumping, but when I turn it over that is all it does is turn over real fast. It does not even act like it wants to start. I sprayed starting fluid into the intake manifold and still nothing, now if it tried to start that might mean that my fuel pressure regulator might not be working but since it did not what could be the problem? Please do not tell me that my timing jumped and if it did how would I tell?
please help it is a long walk to work.
Do you
have the same problem?
Yes
No
Wednesday, August 13th, 2008 AT 6:59 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
You have fuel and spark the valve timing could be the problem. Remove distributor have helper crank engine over is the rotor spinning?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, August 16th, 2008 AT 3:20 PM
Tiny
JIVETURKEY
  • MEMBER
The rotor spins,
I took the top timing belt cover off and confirmed that my number one piston was at TDC with a clothes hanger and aligning the 0 degree notch on my cam shaft pulley with the arrow indicator on the bottom timing cover, at this point my rotor was pointing at the number one, which should mean compression stroke, right? Then I took the cam pulley off making sure not to move it from TDC there was not a mark on my oil pump housing like the book said there would be so I made one. My left cam and right cam were about two teeth away from there marks (jumped time right?) I took the old belt off moved the cams back to there marks, installed new belt fit perfectly. Adjusted belt tension to spec with new belt tension-er. After rotating cam twice like the book said put everything back together and it was hard to start. I moved the distributor until it started but then it ran rough so I moved it until it ran good. Then I drove it a couple of blocks when to accelerate (4,000 rpm) and it shut off and would not start. The book mentions that it will run rough for fifteen to twenty minutes while the PCM relearns stuff it also says to get it started let it warm up turn the engine off. Turn the PCM control of the timing off by turning the screw on the PCM to self diagnostic mode with the ignition on then start engine let it idle (it would not idle before I turned the PCM off) then adjust the timing. So I did all that, but when I put a light on it my distributor was all the way advanced (to get it to start), and I could not see any of the notches as I rotated the distributor half way I could see the last mark (TDC is first from the left) then it shut off. It should have ran better as I got closer even if it did I with the distributor turned all the way. I do not know if it would have hit the TDC mark. I was almost sure that I put the timing belt on right! It is an interference engine but how could it run right sometimes with bent valves? What did I do wrong or could it be something wrong that I missed?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, August 17th, 2008 AT 8:55 PM
Tiny
JONNYBONES
  • MEMBER
Sounds like one of two things; crank position sensor or cam position sensor. Crank sensor is on top of bell-housing behind engine and is hard to get to, the cam sensor is an integrated part of the distributor. Good Luck!
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, September 6th, 2009 AT 6:55 PM
Tiny
SAMMY JOHN
  • MEMBER
Timing is suppose to be at 15 degree BTDC, so turning your distributor to 0 is likely one good reason it began idling poorly and then shut off the closer you got to 0. Try setting it to 15 degrees BTDC while running.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, June 11th, 2018 AT 11:25 AM
Tiny
KEN
  • ADMIN
Great addition to this thread! Please feel free to help out whenever you are on the site. :)

Cheers, Ken
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, June 11th, 2018 AT 11:31 AM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Recommended Guides