Was this helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Tuesday, December 20th, 2016 AT 7:59 PM
STEVE W.
- MECHANIC
- 13,002 POSTS
GM Part #12602245 from the parts book.
SPONSORED LINKS
When engine is warm there is blue smoke coming from the dual exhaust, also misfire code reading on cylinder number five
LISA SIEGMAN
- MEMBER
- 21 POSTS
Thank you
SPONSORED LINKS
Was this helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, December 21st, 2016 AT 3:20 AM
LISA SIEGMAN
- MEMBER
- 21 POSTS
What would cause a coolant oil mixture on the valve cover itself but it's not on my valves or in my oil not sure what's going on
Was this helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, December 21st, 2016 AT 4:40 AM
LISA M. SIEGMAN
- MEMBER
- 1 POST
What is that brown stuff
Image (Click to make bigger)
Was this helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, December 22nd, 2016 AT 11:51 AM
STEVE W.
- MECHANIC
- 13,002 POSTS
That looks like the goop you get when dexcool gets mixed with another coolant and gets air in it. Looks like new gaskets as well.
Oh the question earlier about the oil/water inside the valve cover. That can happen if it's humid or the vehicle doesn't get driven on a long drive to heat the oil and boil off any moisture.
Oh the question earlier about the oil/water inside the valve cover. That can happen if it's humid or the vehicle doesn't get driven on a long drive to heat the oil and boil off any moisture.
SPONSORED LINKS
Was this helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, December 22nd, 2016 AT 2:26 PM
LISA SIEGMAN
- MEMBER
- 21 POSTS
Yes those are new gaskets I did that a few months ago but found out my lower intske was leaking so had to tale it apart again so I cleaned everything again and put new gaskets on it and also my lower intake was nlt torqued down lime it should have been im thinking thats been my whole problem im going to take it to get an acid flush done on it at a shop to clean the whole engine
Was this helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, December 22nd, 2016 AT 3:36 PM
LISA SIEGMAN
- MEMBER
- 21 POSTS
Torqued like it should have been
Was this helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, December 22nd, 2016 AT 5:00 PM
STEVE W.
- MECHANIC
- 13,002 POSTS
Yep, a loose intake can cause a LOT of problems. On the newer engines like yours it's even worse because of the uneven clamping forces the bolt angle applies. That and the OEM plastic gasket are primary reason why a lot of folks don't like dexcool even when it wasn't the reason the gaskets failed.
Was this helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, December 22nd, 2016 AT 5:49 PM
LISA SIEGMAN
- MEMBER
- 21 POSTS
So that would also cause a lot of condensation as well am I correct in normally do all the work but I've been busy and trusted a mechanic and he didn't even tourqe the bolts on the lower part and I kept getting a misfire on #5 and when I tore down my engine I seen all kinds of condensation and I was livid I put a lot of money into this truck and paid him good money and he almost screwed me out of a truck and this time it's completely tourqed the right way so hopefully no more problems and no more dex cool
Was this helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, December 22nd, 2016 AT 6:20 PM
STEVE W.
- MECHANIC
- 13,002 POSTS
Yep, water could easily get past a loose gasket. Oil could also get drawn in easily, in looking at your picture you can actually see the streaks in the intake runners on the head.
If you scraped all the crud down you will want to change the oil, use a cheap oil with one quart of ATF to help flush the crud to the pan, then change the oil & filter.
If you scraped all the crud down you will want to change the oil, use a cheap oil with one quart of ATF to help flush the crud to the pan, then change the oil & filter.
Was this helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Thursday, December 22nd, 2016 AT 7:09 PM
LISA SIEGMAN
- MEMBER
- 21 POSTS
I will get that I sucked most of it out with a shop vac and wiped it down but when I do this with ATF DO I START IT TO FLOW THRU or do I just pour it in and drain
Was this helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, December 22nd, 2016 AT 7:42 PM
STEVE W.
- MECHANIC
- 13,002 POSTS
Start it and let the ATF run through the system, it will help dissolve the crud and flush it out. Then drain it while it's warm. ATF is basically a 10 weight oil with a lot of detergents and gum cutter additives. The older trick is to dump a couple quarts of kerosene in and run that until the engine is warm. It works but ATF is a lot safer for the engine parts.
SPONSORED LINKS
Was this helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Friday, December 23rd, 2016 AT 4:59 AM
LISA SIEGMAN
- MEMBER
- 21 POSTS
Thank you I will do just that thank you so much for your help
Was this helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, December 23rd, 2016 AT 7:16 AM
JOHNNY G.JR
- MECHANIC
- 320 POSTS
Make sure you change filter also
Was this helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Friday, December 23rd, 2016 AT 10:29 AM
LISA SIEGMAN
- MEMBER
- 21 POSTS
Broken bolt on cylinder head WTF how can I remove it without replacing the whole thing don't have the money
Was this helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, December 24th, 2016 AT 6:36 PM
CJ MEDEVAC
- MECHANIC
- 11,004 POSTS
Well,
The bolt diameter (not the head) is how big?
How much room is in front of the broken bolt?
Here's the tricky one!
Did the head bottom out (up top) and snap off?
OR
Did the bolts shaft go to the bottom of the hole and bottom out (then the head sheared off)?
Simpler terms, is there a space between the bolt tip and the bottom of the hole now that the head is broke off?
The Medic
The bolt diameter (not the head) is how big?
How much room is in front of the broken bolt?
Here's the tricky one!
Did the head bottom out (up top) and snap off?
OR
Did the bolts shaft go to the bottom of the hole and bottom out (then the head sheared off)?
Simpler terms, is there a space between the bolt tip and the bottom of the hole now that the head is broke off?
The Medic
Was this helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, December 24th, 2016 AT 6:57 PM
STEVE W.
- MECHANIC
- 13,002 POSTS
Broken bolts are a PIA. Which bolt broke and how did it break, flush with the head, some part still sticking out, as removal is different?
My first step on a broken bolt is to take a center punch and mark the center of the broken part.
If part of it is sticking out I like to clean around it, then use a torch (propane is fine, butane even works) to heat the bolt. Now take a candle and place it against the bolt, the wax will melt and wick into the threads. Clean and heat it again. Then use a pair of vice grips to grab the stub and gently try turning it in both directions. Once you get it moving it will usually screw out.
If it broken off flush, it's a bit more work. Get a set (or just the sizes needed for the bolt you have) of LEFT hand drill bits and a couple broken bolt extractors to match.
Proceed as above except you don't use the vice grips. Instead you will pick a drill about 1/2 the size of the broken bolt. Now drill in the center of the bolt and stop when you get to the point that an extractor will actually grab. Now place the extractor in the hole and tap it with a hammer STRAIGHT in, don't break the extractor. Now gently try unscrewing the bolt. If it doesn't come out with light force. Remove the extractor and heat it again. Repeat until it comes out.
IF you have a welder and the bolt is broken off with some sticking out, you can take a nut, place it over the broken bolt, weld it in place and they usually will come out.
Or you can just drill it out and install a heli-coil to get the threads back.
My first step on a broken bolt is to take a center punch and mark the center of the broken part.
If part of it is sticking out I like to clean around it, then use a torch (propane is fine, butane even works) to heat the bolt. Now take a candle and place it against the bolt, the wax will melt and wick into the threads. Clean and heat it again. Then use a pair of vice grips to grab the stub and gently try turning it in both directions. Once you get it moving it will usually screw out.
If it broken off flush, it's a bit more work. Get a set (or just the sizes needed for the bolt you have) of LEFT hand drill bits and a couple broken bolt extractors to match.
Proceed as above except you don't use the vice grips. Instead you will pick a drill about 1/2 the size of the broken bolt. Now drill in the center of the bolt and stop when you get to the point that an extractor will actually grab. Now place the extractor in the hole and tap it with a hammer STRAIGHT in, don't break the extractor. Now gently try unscrewing the bolt. If it doesn't come out with light force. Remove the extractor and heat it again. Repeat until it comes out.
IF you have a welder and the bolt is broken off with some sticking out, you can take a nut, place it over the broken bolt, weld it in place and they usually will come out.
Or you can just drill it out and install a heli-coil to get the threads back.
Was this helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, December 25th, 2016 AT 6:49 AM
LISA SIEGMAN
- MEMBER
- 21 POSTS
This is the pic
Image (Click to make bigger)
Was this helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, December 25th, 2016 AT 8:30 AM
STEVE W.
- MECHANIC
- 13,002 POSTS
That should come out rather easily unless it was cross threaded going in. Left hand drill bit and be sure to drill straight down matching the angle of the hole to the right. Heat it up first, then some wax or lube. Then clean the flange around it and tape plastic around it so the chips get collected, a couple magnets under the plastic to hold the chips wouldn't be a bad idea. Then GENTLY drill it out. Wrap some tape around the bit to match the depth of the ones that came out. Try an easy out and see if it backs out.
A few videos on the topic
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c-VD1yx61bA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3tjhs-0kFl8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbZZFWaIzyU
Best of luck.
A few videos on the topic
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c-VD1yx61bA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3tjhs-0kFl8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbZZFWaIzyU
Best of luck.
Was this helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, December 25th, 2016 AT 3:51 PM
LISA SIEGMAN
- MEMBER
- 21 POSTS
Got the bolt out but come to find out have a cracked cylinder head on the drivers side
Image (Click to make bigger)
Was this helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, December 28th, 2016 AT 9:06 AM
