My engine has no spark can you help me fix it?

Hi Tyler,

Have you actually tested the coil? This is what is responsible for your spark strength. This is a spark amplifier so if you have a weak spark, it is the most likely cause.

I attached the procedure on how to test these. I have seen too many times when you get a coil out of the box and it fails almost immediately. You need to prove out the coil is ok even if it is new. Otherwise, we will be chasing out tails because we assume new parts are good parts.

https://youtu.be/1zQQy9noYQ0

Please let me know your resistance measurements and we can go from there. Thanks

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

Okay. Just to get the progression. You have a hard start condition and you found weak spark on your plug wires. You traced it back and found strong spark at the coil. However, you replaced coil, distributor and wires. After you replaced this, it will start and run well. Then go to restart and it will not start again and you found weak spark again. Is this all true? Or do you find times when it does start and times it does not start?

If you have a strong spark at the coil but not at the plug wires, then you have high resistance somewhere from the distributor forward.

I am concerned about going with the look of the spark when doing these types of tests because it is subjective. Taking actual voltage measurements is much more definitive but with no meter, I get your approach.

Let's just start with us getting on the same page of the progression of this and go from there.

Okay. When you replaced the distributor was the ignition control module included?

Is there any chance that you have a lab scope? I know most people don't but I want to ask.

What I suspect is happening is the control module/igniter is the issue. This will actually mask the issue and make us blame the coil. The coil is responsible for building the primary spark and delivering the secondary but a faulty control module or igniter limits the amperage for the primary, then the coil delivers a weak spark.

Here is the test for the control module but I am hoping you have a scope so we can capture this. Thanks

I just read your last post. I copied a link here of another one that I am working. Seems like if we fix yours, we will fix the other or vice versa.

I will keep you posted on the other one. Very weird to have two identical vehicles with the same problem unless you posted this twice under a different name. :)

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/car-wont-start-all-the-time-2340567

Haha! No problem. Just reply to this post then. That is kind of what I figured because that was very unlikely. Let me know about that lab scope and ignition control module and we can go from there.

I just found this video. This is a little lengthy but explains exactly what I am driving towards.

https://youtu.be/eoodIVGgGyw

Hi willyq,

If any repair was carried out on the engine, then you need to check the ECM grounds at the thermostat housing.

Does the Check Engine Lamp shows for 2 seconds and goes of at initial ignition switch ON?
Is there battery voltage at the Black/Yellow wire of distributor with ignition switch ON and while cranking?
Are the dash lights showing while cranking?

That is great. I would be shocked if the ICM is not your issue. The ICM controls the tachometer as well, which I am sure you knew, and is why you mentioned it.

Here is your power flow for this system. Also, it has its own ground, I know you said you checked grounds but just want to make sure this is one that you checked.

Check out that video and let me know what you find. Thanks

It can only be spark or fuel. If there is no spark at the spark plugs, Then check at the distr cap and the wire. If no spark there, Check your grounds and especially the Dizzy connectors. Then pull associated fuses and replace as necessary. The igniter inside the dizzy can go bad, the rotor button and cap can get corrosion in side there. I bet it is wiring. I bet it is the ground wire for the ECU that attaches to the intake manifold. It is about 3 wires together in one connector that gets a 10mm bolt through it. See if it is loose, If so, remove bolt, sand all contact surfaces and replace with tightness. Should start. If not, I will offer more with additional input.

The main relay would not result in loss of sparks. If sparks is missing, I would suggest checking the ignition switch.

Ensure you have battery voltage at the ignition coil while cranking.

It is pretty unusual to have a no spark and no fuel condition at the same time. Is your coil internal or external of the distributor? You can pull out the main relay and check for cracking solder joints inside to see if that might be your no fuel problem.