Not starting

Thanks Roy, I have changed the coil, distributor cap and rotor button, but your information gives me a new lead. Thanks

Roy,
Here's what I have done so far. The transmission went out this winter, I removed it, had an expert rebuild it, then re-installed it, ran like a trooper for months. Drove it into work one, ran great. Went to leave work it would not start, no fuel pressure at the Schrader valve. Replaced the fuel pump, filter, and relay. Ran normal all that afternoon and on the way to work the next morning, that afternoon it would not start again, good pressure at the Schrader.
I replace the distributor cap, rotor, and coil, and found a broken MAP sensor on the top of the intake, replaced that as well. It still cranks over just like always but it will not run. Replaced the PCM with a reconditioned (pre-programmed to the VIN number) and followed the set up instructions, still nothing.
I replaced the crankshaft sensor yesterday, she still cranks over but will not start.
The driver's window has a decal that says "Chapman code security system", however I am not the first owner of this truck and do not know if this is the original window. The truck came with a plain metal key (not even a plastic head), and over time I have had some other keys made, none with a chip in them, she has always ran fine, could this be a cause? Would it somehow become active after all these years? If so how can it be disabled?
Someone at NAPA suggested it might be a pick up under the rotor.
Thank you for your time Roy, and anyone else who reads this.

P.S. My bad, she is a 1997 model year but rolled out in September of 1996.

Again, Thanks Roy, I will try that on my next day off (Wednesday).
Every new part I put in is one less thing I will have to replace later.
And at this point it is becoming more of a personal thing, and I plan on winning.

I replaced the coil driver yesterday and cleaned up the aluminum heat distribution plate it is mounted to. She still will not start. Rechecked the distributor, rotor, and pick up while I was in that area.
I spent a few hours going over the fuse pannels and wiring harness looking for faults and shorts, I even pulled the steering wheel cover off and checked the ignition leads, and everything looks normal.
I am starting to get a bit frustrated, I have not kept track on how much I have put into this, but it is getting near the $400.00 mark and still not working.

No spark yet.
And I want to thank you for your time Roy.

Roy, I forgot to mention, I did find a damaged pre-converter oxygen sensor on the driver's side. How would that effect the PCM function?

Yes, a common 12 volt test light and a multi-meter.
I also have the original PCM.

Will check it on my next day off (Sunday), By the way, brand new coil and driver.

Sure thing, will do.
Thanks Roy.

Here are the test results. Tried it with both the new and old PCMs I could not find a white/black, but I did find black/white.
Black connector - pink strong signal - black/white weak signal.
Blue connector - pink strong signal - black/white strong signal.
Red connector - pink strong signal - black/white no signal.
White connector - pink no signal - black/white strong signal.
No "pulsing" however, the test light did dim during the cranking, likely from the draw on the battery
results the same for both PCMs.