Dandy. About 95 percent of cranks / no-starts are caused by a loss of spark AND fuel pressure and injector pulses. About one percent are caused by just no spark. The rest are caused by just the fuel delivery system, and it sounds like that's what we have. For the loss of spark and fuel, the pump would still run for that initial one or two seconds, but since you don't hear that, we know it's the pump circuit that needs our magic.
First check fuse 48, a 15 amp, in the under-hood fuse box. Next, remove the fuel pump relay from that box and check for voltage on the terminals in the socket. Two of them must have 12 volts when the ignition switch is on. If that's what you find, try swapping that relay with a different one like it, then see if the pump turns on.
If that doesn't work, remove that relay again and do a continuity test on the remaining two terminals, (not the two that had 12 volts). The ignition switch can be off for this test. One terminal should read open. The other one is for the pump motor and should read perhaps one or two ohms. The exact value isn't important now because there's going to be a few ohms of resistance in the meter leads.
Those four measurements were with a digital volt / ohm meter. If you only have a test light, all we care about is you have voltage on two terminals, then, move the test light's ground clip to the battery positive post and test the other two terminals. The light will light up when you find the one going to ground through the pump motor.
By this time I suspect you will have either found fuse 48 blown or there is no continuity to ground through the pump motor. If everything has checked good up to this point, check for 12 volts on the black / yellow wire at the pump's connector. You can do that while a helper is cranking the engine, but to do it yourself, I find it easier to bypass the fuel pump relay. Right now I'm not 100 percent sure I would tell you the right two terminals to connect, so a safer way is to pop the cover off the fuel pump relay, reinstall it that way, then squeeze the contact. Usually there is a way to wrap a rubber band around it or wedge a piece of thin cardboard in it to keep it turned on. That will let you do the testing without having to crank the engine or even turning on the ignition switch.
Read this guide on testing relays, it will help
See the diagram below for the relay wiring
(USER NOTES : The fuel sensor is integrated into the IPDM and cannot be tested individually.)
Saturday, June 20th, 2015 AT 10:38 PM