Battery not charging?

Tiny
SGAMPP01
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 FORD RANGER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 113,000 MILES
My speedometer, tachometer, voltage meter stopped working all at once. Then the vehicle died and would not crank starter. I charged the battery and it started, but quit again after a short time. I suspected the alternator so I had the battery and Alt tested. The battery tested good but the alt showed low voltage output, so I put a new one on. Did not change the problem. The alt is not charging the battery and the above mentioned gauges still do not work. The vehicle dies when it has drained all the juice out of the battery. Any thoughts?
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Thursday, April 1st, 2010 AT 12:16 PM

24 Replies

Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
Follow the + battery cable to the solenoid, there you will find three "fusible" links, check for power on both sides of all three. If OK Under the hood find the fuse box, this is the power distribution center, and check all fuses and relays there. MAIN vehicle power is supplied from the alternator to this box...

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Thursday, April 1st, 2010 AT 2:05 PM
Tiny
JUSTIN C
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 FORD RANGER
  • 2.5L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 221,000 MILES
I have had alternator and battery replaced, still with no charge. I have checked wiring for continuing and wires check out good. I have also checked wiring at starter. All fuses ohm and are good. I have searched for a fuse-able link.
Have checked all possibilities with no avail. Is there something I am missing?
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Thursday, December 10th, 2020 AT 8:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
I am sure you have checked fuses but check to see if you have power on both sides in one in box under hood. There may be a break in the fuse box and or instrument cluster where the resistor is. Or a broken wire to one of the leads to alternator.
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Thursday, December 10th, 2020 AT 8:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
EXGANGSTER
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 FORD RANGER
  • 2.1L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 147,000 MILES
Battery indicator light came on and then truck would not run. Replaced my alternator which could not be tested because no one knew how! Installed it and ended up purchasing a new battery. After light remained on and drained my charged battery did not work either. Light remains on and charging system does not work. I have no increase in battery voltage when I started my truck. Took alternator back, got another. Again, battery light still on and alternator still not charging. Now I used two batteries that undergo complete voltage drains, forcing me to rotate and recharge them repeatedly day in and day out, as I continue to use my truck out of necessity. I have checked the obvious fuses/relays with voltmeter and they test and function correctly.
Please help.
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Thursday, December 10th, 2020 AT 8:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Check for twelve volts on the yellow wire in the three-wire plug on the back of the generator. If that is missing, check for twelve volts on the large output terminal. If voltage is missing at both places, the large 175-amp bolted-in fuse is blown. If it is only missing on the yellow wire, look for the 30-amp charging system fuse.
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Thursday, December 10th, 2020 AT 8:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BUDDY WILSON
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 FORD RANGER
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 150,000 MILES
I have put in a new battery and 2 new alternators in my truck and still the battery light is on and wont charge my battery when I take them to the part store they test fine dont know what else to do please help!
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Thursday, December 10th, 2020 AT 8:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • EXPERT
Check the fuse and wiring -remove connector behind alternator turn key on and check for power at the light green and red wire-also see below


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/12900_alty_24.jpg

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Thursday, December 10th, 2020 AT 8:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JT6606
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 FORD RANGER
  • MANUAL
  • 15,000 MILES
Not charging fuse is good no power to excite wire green with red stripe.
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Thursday, December 10th, 2020 AT 8:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
Good evening.

That wire is powered by the fuse listed in the diagram I attached.

It then turns on the light bulb on the dash. From there it goes to the alternator.

Check that fuse and let us know.

Roy
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Thursday, December 10th, 2020 AT 8:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BRENT WHITE
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 FORD RANGER
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 130,000 MILES
My alternator was bad so I have replaced my alternator but the battery light will not go off and its not showing a full charge only coming up 1/4 of the way so I wanted to know what else could be the problem
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Thursday, December 10th, 2020 AT 8:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
THETOOLMAN
  • MEMBER
Have you had the battery checked. Don't forget the connections everything needs to be cleaned and tighten. The battery may be what ruined your alternator one bad cell can cause the alternator to over charge. Go to Auto Zone or Advance and let them test your battery visually inspect your connections.
If this doesn't resolve your issue you may have a blown fusible link.
Good Luck
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Thursday, December 10th, 2020 AT 8:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JOE MARSHALL
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 FORD RANGER
Electrical problem 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual 150, xx miles

I have replaced my battery, alternator, cable from alt. To fuse, fuse, ignition switch, and my truck still will not charge the battery. The cables are tight, the fan belt is good. I went through a spell where the system would charge every other time I drove it, but iI could never tell what I did or didnt do. I did a continuity test on the battery cables and they were good. What should I check next?
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Thursday, December 10th, 2020 AT 8:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • EXPERT
It sounds like you have a fusible link that is out or a connection problem. Lets test the system by following this guide

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

With the key on you should have power to the yellow and white wire to the alternator and the B+ terminal of the alternator.

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers
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Thursday, December 10th, 2020 AT 8:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
Here are some instructions from the repair manual.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

and

1. Unplug harness connector from regulator at rear of generator. Connect ohmmeter between regulator "A" and "F" terminal screws. See Fig. 1 and Fig. 3 . If resistance is not greater than 2.4 ohms, a short in field circuit or a grounded rotor coil is indicated. Replace generator. If resistance is greater than 2.4 ohms, go to next step.

2. Reconnect regulator wiring plug. Connect negative voltmeter lead to ground. Contact positive voltmeter lead to regulator "A" terminal screw. If voltmeter does not indicate battery voltage, repair open or high resistance in "A" circuit wiring. Perform load test after repairs.

3. If battery voltage is indicated at "A" terminal screw, ensure ignition switch is in OFF position. Connect positive voltmeter lead to regulator "F" terminal screw. If battery voltage is present, go to step 4). If battery voltage is not present, replace generator.

4. Turn ignition switch to ON position (engine off). With voltmeter negative lead to ground, contact positive lead of voltmeter to regulator "F" terminal screw. If voltmeter indicates 2 volts or less, go to next step. If voltage is greater than 2 volts, check circuit between "I" terminal and ignition switch. Repair if necessary. See "S" & "I" CIRCUIT TEST . If "I" circuit is okay, replace regulator. Perform LOAD TEST after repair.

5. Start engine and run at 2000 RPM with headlights on. Measure voltage at "B+" terminal of generator and at generator feed wire at starter relay. If voltage readings differ by more than 0.5 volt, repair high resistance or open in wire between "B+" terminal and junction near starter relay.

6. If generator still does not charge sufficiently, connect a jumper wire to regulator "F" terminal screw and ground it to rear housing. If output voltage increases to 13-15 volts, replace regulator. If output voltage does not increase to at least 13 volts, replace generator. "S" & "I" CIRCUIT TEST 1. Unplug regulator 3-wire harness connector. Connect jumper wire from harness "A" terminal to regulator "A" terminal. See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2 . Connect another jumper wire from regulator "F" terminal screw to generator housing. 2. With engine idling, connect voltmeter negative lead to battery ground terminal. Connect voltmeter positive lead first to "S" terminal and then to "I" terminal of regulator harness connector. See Fig. 2 . Voltage at "S" terminal should be about 7 volts and about 14 volts at "I" terminal. If "S" terminal and "I" voltages are okay, replace voltage regulator.

, proceed with appropriate testing.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_fig_1_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_fig_2_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_fig3_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_wd_4.jpg



Check fuses, ground wires and fusible links at starter solenoid.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Let us know
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Thursday, December 10th, 2020 AT 8:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
PWILLIA
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 FORD RANGER
Electrical problem
1998 Ford Ranger 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive 85000 miles

My 1998 Ranger (4cyl./Manual trans) battery light is coming on in the instrum. Cluster. I have replaced the battery and the alternator, however the light is still coming on and the voltage gauge needle is 7/8's of the way to the "H" end of the scale. Any other ideas?
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Thursday, December 10th, 2020 AT 8:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • EXPERT
Double check connection at the alternator/battery

Get the alternator tested the way you described it-the alternator is overcharging the battery and battery can explode. Also test the battery


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/12900_alty_65.jpg

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Thursday, December 10th, 2020 AT 8:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
PWILLIA
  • MEMBER
Thanks for the quick reply. Alternator connections are pretty simple, one wire with nut connection and two plug connectors, not sure how I could have it wrong. Very clean connections to battery. Guess I will take it to Advance Auto and have them check it.
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Thursday, December 10th, 2020 AT 8:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
2 LINSEY
  • EXPERT
We appreciate your donation and look forward to helping you in the future. Thank you
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Thursday, December 10th, 2020 AT 8:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
PRORKBA
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 FORD RANGER
1998 Ford Ranger

1998 Ford Ranger with just over 30K miles, 6 cyl, 5-speed. Replaced battery three or four years ago due to starting problems. As can be seen by the low milage, the vehicle sits a lot, sometimes for a week or two, often in very cold weather. The replacement battery is doing the same thing: after a few days sitting, it is slow cranking (a few times, it has even been too dead to crank the engine). After repairing an auto security problem today (door unlock problem due to cold solder joint on a transistor in the aftermarket door-lock module - unrelated to the charging issue), a job that took approximately an hour with the engine idling, thought I would check voltages under a variety of conditions (engine not running, engine running, etc.). With engine off, the battery voltage was 12.36. Once started, the voltage at the battery rose to 14.4V, but continued to rise past 14.6V. From what I've read, the alternator should be limited to a 14.5V output. I'm thinking the voltage regulator is not operating correctly. Does anyone concur or have another opinion?
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Thursday, December 10th, 2020 AT 8:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
NO-LOAD TEST 1. Connect voltmeter positive lead to B+ terminal on generator and negative lead to ground. Start and run engine at 1500 RPM with no electrical load (foot off brake and doors closed). Read voltmeter when voltage stabilizes. This may require waiting a few minutes. Voltage should be 13-15 volts. 2. If voltage increases to proper level, proceed to LOAD TEST. If voltage increases beyond proper level, proceed to OVERCHARGE CONDITION. If there is no voltage increase, proceed to LOW OR NO CHARGE CONDITION.
It's more likely the lack of driving that's the problem, it's recommended to remove the negative cable for long periods of inactivity.
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Thursday, December 10th, 2020 AT 8:37 AM (Merged)

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