Charging system

Tiny
JOE MARSHALL
  • 1998 FORD RANGER

Electrical problem 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual 150, xx miles

I have replaced my battery, alternator, cable from alt. To fuse, fuse, ignition switch, and my truck still will not charge the battery. The cables are tight, the fan belt is good. I went through a spell where the system would charge every other time I drove it, but iI could never tell what I did or didnt do. I did a continuity test on the battery cables and they were good. What should I check next?

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Saturday, September 4th, 2010 AT 11:34 AM

25 Replies

Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • EXPERT
  • 31,200 POSTS

It sounds like you have a fusible link that is out or a connection problem. Lets test the system by following this guide

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

With the key on you should have power to the yellow and white wire to the alternator and the B+ terminal of the alternator.

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers

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Saturday, September 4th, 2010 AT 11:59 AM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
  • 17,518 POSTS

Here are some instructions from the repair manual.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

and

1. Unplug harness connector from regulator at rear of generator. Connect ohmmeter between regulator "A" and "F" terminal screws. See Fig. 1 and Fig. 3 . If resistance is not greater than 2.4 ohms, a short in field circuit or a grounded rotor coil is indicated. Replace generator. If resistance is greater than 2.4 ohms, go to next step.

2. Reconnect regulator wiring plug. Connect negative voltmeter lead to ground. Contact positive voltmeter lead to regulator "A" terminal screw. If voltmeter does not indicate battery voltage, repair open or high resistance in "A" circuit wiring. Perform load test after repairs.

3. If battery voltage is indicated at "A" terminal screw, ensure ignition switch is in OFF position. Connect positive voltmeter lead to regulator "F" terminal screw. If battery voltage is present, go to step 4). If battery voltage is not present, replace generator.

4. Turn ignition switch to ON position (engine off). With voltmeter negative lead to ground, contact positive lead of voltmeter to regulator "F" terminal screw. If voltmeter indicates 2 volts or less, go to next step. If voltage is greater than 2 volts, check circuit between "I" terminal and ignition switch. Repair if necessary. See "S" & "I" CIRCUIT TEST . If "I" circuit is okay, replace regulator. Perform LOAD TEST after repair.

5. Start engine and run at 2000 RPM with headlights on. Measure voltage at "B+" terminal of generator and at generator feed wire at starter relay. If voltage readings differ by more than 0.5 volt, repair high resistance or open in wire between "B+" terminal and junction near starter relay.

6. If generator still does not charge sufficiently, connect a jumper wire to regulator "F" terminal screw and ground it to rear housing. If output voltage increases to 13-15 volts, replace regulator. If output voltage does not increase to at least 13 volts, replace generator. "S" & "I" CIRCUIT TEST 1. Unplug regulator 3-wire harness connector. Connect jumper wire from harness "A" terminal to regulator "A" terminal. See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2 . Connect another jumper wire from regulator "F" terminal screw to generator housing. 2. With engine idling, connect voltmeter negative lead to battery ground terminal. Connect voltmeter positive lead first to "S" terminal and then to "I" terminal of regulator harness connector. See Fig. 2 . Voltage at "S" terminal should be about 7 volts and about 14 volts at "I" terminal. If "S" terminal and "I" voltages are okay, replace voltage regulator.

, proceed with appropriate testing.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_fig_1_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_fig_2_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_fig3_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_wd_4.jpg



Check fuses, ground wires and fusible links at starter solenoid.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Let us know

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Saturday, September 4th, 2010 AT 12:09 PM
Tiny
PRORKBA
  • 1998 FORD RANGER

1998 Ford Ranger

1998 Ford Ranger with just over 30K miles, 6 cyl, 5-speed. Replaced battery three or four years ago due to starting problems. As can be seen by the low milage, the vehicle sits a lot, sometimes for a week or two, often in very cold weather. The replacement battery is doing the same thing: after a few days sitting, it is slow cranking (a few times, it has even been too dead to crank the engine). After repairing an auto security problem today (door unlock problem due to cold solder joint on a transistor in the aftermarket door-lock module - unrelated to the charging issue), a job that took approximately an hour with the engine idling, thought I would check voltages under a variety of conditions (engine not running, engine running, etc.). With engine off, the battery voltage was 12.36. Once started, the voltage at the battery rose to 14.4V, but continued to rise past 14.6V. From what I've read, the alternator should be limited to a 14.5V output. I'm thinking the voltage regulator is not operating correctly. Does anyone concur or have another opinion?

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Wednesday, November 29th, 2017 AT 2:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
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NO-LOAD TEST 1. Connect voltmeter positive lead to B+ terminal on generator and negative lead to ground. Start and run engine at 1500 RPM with no electrical load (foot off brake and doors closed). Read voltmeter when voltage stabilizes. This may require waiting a few minutes. Voltage should be 13-15 volts. 2. If voltage increases to proper level, proceed to LOAD TEST. If voltage increases beyond proper level, proceed to OVERCHARGE CONDITION. If there is no voltage increase, proceed to LOW OR NO CHARGE CONDITION.
It's more likely the lack of driving that's the problem, it's recommended to remove the negative cable for long periods of inactivity.

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Wednesday, November 29th, 2017 AT 2:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PRORKBA
  • MEMBER

Thanks much for the quick response! It could very well be that the vehicle just sits too long, too often. I'll start putting some miles on the vehicle and see if that helps. If not, further testing will commence. I was just curious about the engine-running battery voltage (same also measured at the alternator's yellow wire on the three-wire plug) exceeding 14.5V, but you've suggested 15V is not out of the question. It may be a few weeks before we find out if driving it more often (or pulling the negative cable when not in use) helps. Will update then.

Again, thanks for the quick response.

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Wednesday, November 29th, 2017 AT 2:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
  • 17,518 POSTS

OK I'll be around.

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Wednesday, November 29th, 2017 AT 2:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PWILLIA
  • 1998 FORD RANGER

Electrical problem
1998 Ford Ranger 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive 85000 miles

My 1998 Ranger (4cyl./Manual trans) battery light is coming on in the instrum. Cluster. I have replaced the battery and the alternator, however the light is still coming on and the voltage gauge needle is 7/8's of the way to the "H" end of the scale. Any other ideas?

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Wednesday, November 29th, 2017 AT 2:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER

Double check connection at the alternator/battery

Get the alternator tested the way you described it-the alternator is overcharging the battery and battery can explode. Also test the battery


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/12900_alty_65.jpg

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Wednesday, November 29th, 2017 AT 2:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PWILLIA
  • MEMBER

Thanks for the quick reply. Alternator connections are pretty simple, one wire with nut connection and two plug connectors, not sure how I could have it wrong. Very clean connections to battery. Guess I will take it to Advance Auto and have them check it.

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Wednesday, November 29th, 2017 AT 2:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPROS LINSEY
  • MEMBER

We appreciate your donation and look forward to helping you in the future. Thank you

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Wednesday, November 29th, 2017 AT 2:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MANKNEE
  • 1998 FORD RANGER

Electrical problem
1998 Ford Ranger 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual 120350 miles

A few months ago the battery light started going on and off, then it just stayed on and my battery would not charge. I have replaced the alternator 2 times, and I think that they get shorted out because the problem still exists.

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Wednesday, November 29th, 2017 AT 2:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
  • MEMBER

On the alternator you have a plug with one small wire in it. Replace this plug. You will notice if you wiggle the plug the light will go on and off, this is very common.

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Wednesday, November 29th, 2017 AT 2:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DODGE71
  • 1997 FORD RANGER

I HAVE 1997 ford ranger and it quit charging and I replaced the battery and the alternator and it still is only showing 11.5 volts/ What is the problem. I have replaced the alternator and the battery and still is only putting out 11.5 volts

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Wednesday, November 29th, 2017 AT 2:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • EXPERT
  • 31,200 POSTS

Do you have a alternator to do some testing?

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Wednesday, November 29th, 2017 AT 2:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER

All connections/cleaned okay-could be the computer controlled of the alternator field generation circuit-have it checked out

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Wednesday, November 29th, 2017 AT 2:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DODGE71
  • MEMBER

Should I have juice on the green wire going to the alternator. My neighbor was driving down the road and it just stopped charging.

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Wednesday, November 29th, 2017 AT 2:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER

You should have power on the light green and red wire-check fuse no.15

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Wednesday, November 29th, 2017 AT 2:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DODGE71
  • MEMBER

Checked thefuse, replaced the alternator with 2 new ones, I had read that I was suppose to have juice on the yellow wire and the green wire and the green wire is dead all the way back to the firewall. I have check any farther yet.

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Wednesday, November 29th, 2017 AT 2:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TOWNSENDWL
  • 1997 FORD RANGER
  • 95 MILES

Replaced Alternator after it tested bad. Replaced with a rebuilt one and still the battery does not charge, it reads 11.67 VDC What else could it be

Checked all connections and cleaned battery posts

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Wednesday, November 29th, 2017 AT 2:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
  • 68,495 POSTS

Check fuseable link between alt and battery. If bad, a good alt will still not charge.

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Wednesday, November 29th, 2017 AT 2:21 PM (Merged)

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