Engine hesitates and sluggish acceleration

Tiny
MARSHA MORRIS STURGILL
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Thanks for your quick reply. I have made a copy of it to give to my mechanic. When the problem is solved I'll let you know. I forgot to mention that it had also backfired and it felt like I had run over something, but hadn't.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, June 29th, 2021 AT 9:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,217 POSTS
Hi,

Sounds like a plan. Let me know. Also, here is a link that you may find of interest. It discusses the most common causes of a backfire.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-backfires-while-running

Let me know what you find.

Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Tuesday, June 29th, 2021 AT 9:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DPM1965
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1994 FORD F-150
  • 5.0L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 95,000 MILES
Truck started sporadically running bad a couple years ago. I got online to read information on the symptoms, and started with replacing the IAC valve. Didn't help. Replaced the throttle control sensor with no change, replaced a couple other valves that I can't remember the names of, (one on the side of the intake manifold, and the other that sits behind the emissions control sensors at the drivers side rear of the motor, off the fuel rail). I replaced the PCV, the O2 sensor, the fuel pump and filter, the air filter, the spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor, pulled and cleaned the fuel injectors (cleaned the intake plenum while off), replaced the catalytic converter, pulled and cleaned very well, the EGR valve. Ran sea foam through the fuel system a few times, with using the sea foam spray through the intake as well. Checked all my fuses (just the blade style) but I don't have a computer to check for codes. My check engine light will come on while it's running bad for a bit then it goes off, but the truck is still running terrible after the light goes off. The engine loses power after driving it for about a quarter mile, but it will start and idle all day with no symptoms. It passed the emissions test, but runs really bad. After it starts running bad, if I mash down on the throttle pedal all the way, it will keep moving forward, but it performs like it's pulling 20 tons behind it, and will only reach a top speed of around 35 miles an hour. If I let off the throttle pedal to any lesser degree it lurches, and if I let off the throttle pedal all the way, it will idle, but slow to a stop on the side of the road, with the clutch disengaged, motor still running.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, June 29th, 2021 AT 9:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,217 POSTS
Welcome to 2CarPros.

The first thing I would recommend is checking for diagnostic trouble codes. This vehicle has an OBD1 system. Here is a link that explains how to pull codes. It doesn't require a special scanner. The only thing needed is a test light.

Here is the link:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/ford-lincoln-mercury-obd1-1995-and-earlier-diagnostic-trouble-code-definition-and-retrieval

You have already replaced so much, I really suggest seeing if there are codes. Otherwise, we have no directions to go as far as possible issues.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, June 29th, 2021 AT 9:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DPM1965
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Thank you! I appreciate your help with this! I took my truck to a Ford dealership here in town, and they couldn't guarantee me that if I paid them to diagnose it, that they could give me a definite answer. Being strapped for cash as I am at present, I am obliged to do the repair myself. Your site will be a huge assistance in this lengthy saga!
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, June 29th, 2021 AT 9:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,217 POSTS
Welcome back:

You are very welcome. Let me know what you find and we'll go from that point.

Take care,

Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, June 29th, 2021 AT 9:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ERNIEMCWRENCH
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1994 FORD F-150
My truck has a problem That I cant figure out. The Truck runs good most of the time but when I stop at a red light/stop sign it will not accelerate it spits sputters for approximately 2 min. Then it will cough and take off normally and run smooth. So far we have replaced the: tps, fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator. And have cleaned the throttle body and air plenum. The cat has been removed. Fuel pressure is steady at 38 psi. Vacuum is steady at 14 hg.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, June 29th, 2021 AT 9:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,029 POSTS
Ok it is an obd1 system and may not show any codes. What I would like you to do if you would is get some mass air flow cleaner (no other cleaner) and clean the mass air flow then start it and see if it idles and runs better. If it don't then unplug the mass air flow and start it and see how it idles, it will not have much if any throttle response so don't throttle it ok. Let me know how this goes. I will want to test the mass air flow sensor if it don't improve so you will need a digital multi meter.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, June 29th, 2021 AT 9:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,913 POSTS
Hello,

Here is a guide that will help you get the problem fixed.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers, Ken
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, June 29th, 2021 AT 9:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TOM COBB
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1994 FORD F-150
  • 5.0L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 150,000 MILES
The truck was sitting out in the cold for about two weeks. We saw a leak in the heater hose which leaked into the throttle position sensor. We replaced the sensor and replaced the hoses. When we went to use the truck 10-30 minutes into running it at highway speeds we encountered power loss. It did not stall or quit running but it would go down in power to 20 MPH. Tried the overdrive switch and switching tanks with no improvement. We have replaced the computer, dropped the front tank and visually don't see anything but did replace the filer, which was not clogged. We put a new EGR valve and solenoid, distributor pick-up, EGR vacuum control, replaced all vacuum lines (used diagram under hood) also the exhaust manifold. We replaced the MAF but took it off as it even ran worse. We are at our wits end as this truck has never given us a bit of trouble except a pan gasket a couple of years ago. Any help greatly appreciated.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, June 29th, 2021 AT 9:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
I would suggest we need to start with checking for codes.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/ford-lincoln-mercury-obd1-1995-and-earlier-diagnostic-trouble-code-definition-and-retrieval

Then we need to make sure the position sensor connector does not have coolant still in it. This will clearly mess up any electrical connection.

Here are some guides that will help with this issue if this checks out:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-low-engine-power

https://youtu.be/U1RoG3I-Oww

However, finding out what codes are there should be the best first step.

Let us know what you find. Thanks
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, June 29th, 2021 AT 9:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
STRAIGHT6FAN
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1993 FORD F-150
  • 4.9L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 243,005 MILES
Mileage is about twelve to thirteen mpg highway.
City ten mpg or so. This truck was sitting and neglected as well.

Things I have done:

1) Replaced the belt tension-er.

2) Replaced rear tank pump.

3) Tested fuel pressure was 38psi before rear pump replacement and I am a little spent because did it solo by lifting back of bed enough too access. Boy I am glad that is done, lol.

I do not want too throw parts at this and am trying too fix obvious problems first.

Can you give some insight on things too look for?
Vacuum readings very good for a motor with 200,000 plus miles. It is burning no oil. Thanks, Rick
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, June 29th, 2021 AT 9:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,913 POSTS
This sounds like you have a clogged catalytic converter but to be sure lets run this test by following this guide:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

Please run down this guide and report back.

Cheers, Ken
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, June 29th, 2021 AT 9:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TIM WILKERSON
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1990 FORD F-150
  • 5.0L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 160,000 MILES
It hesitates and sputters and bogs down when I take off in first but when it warms up it runs good going from first to second and second to third and so on.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, June 29th, 2021 AT 9:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,217 POSTS
Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.com.
This could be the result of a few things. First, I would suggest checking fuel pump pressure when the engine is cold. If it is low, that can cause what you described.

Here is a link which discusses checking pressure:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

I've attached a picture below which shows the factory specifications for fuel pump pressure on your vehicle. The acronyms, KOEO and KOER simply mean, key on engine off and key on engine running.

If you find the pressure is within the manufacturer's specs, next check for engine vacuum leaks. Remember, when metal gets hot, it expands. If there is an intake leak, warming the engine could lead to a smaller or no leak.

Here is a link which discusses how to check for a vacuum leak. Again, this should be done cold in your case.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Tuesday, June 29th, 2021 AT 9:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RHONDA WATTS
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1990 FORD F-150
  • 3.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 150,000 MILES
This is a 300 6 cylinder Ford. It starts and runs fine for approximately 10-12 miles then it starts losing power some jerking. You can shut off the truck and restart and it runs fine for awhile then starts again, shut it off and restart it is fine.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, June 29th, 2021 AT 9:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good afternoon,

When it starts to run poorly, you need to test the fuel pressure. You may have a weak fuel pump that locks up when it gets hot.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-electric-fuel-pump

Roy
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, June 29th, 2021 AT 9:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,743 POSTS
You offered a perfect description of the symptoms that occur when the fuel strainer inside the gas tank is plugged or is collapsing. This happened twice to my 1988 Grand Caravan at 200,000-mile intervals. In most cases with fuel-injected engines, the engine will run better at highway speed or when accelerating, and will tend to stall when the largest volume of fuel is being pumped, which is during coasting. Stopping the engine momentarily allows the screen to stretch out again to let fuel pass through it.

It is well-known that Chrysler fuel filters typically last the life of the vehicle, and you'll rarely solve a problem by replacing them. It's exactly the opposite with GM vehicles. Those are an easy fix for many running problems. I'm not aware of any such history for Ford vehicles, so you might want to replace your fuel filter first. Next, the way I identified this on my van was to connect a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail under the hood, and run the hose under a wiper arm so I could watch it when the stalling occurred. I found the pressure to drop from a normal 45 - 50 psi to as low as 20 psi. The engine didn't start to sputter until it hit 15 psi. Most engines won't even run with fuel pressure as low as 30 psi. I also found pressure would pop back up to normal if I just lifted the accelerator pedal for an instant, then it took a good 20 - 30 seconds to slowly drop again.

Here's a photo of the fuel strainer. It's snapped onto the bottom of the fuel pump housing in the tank.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, June 29th, 2021 AT 9:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CHEROKEE 870
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1986 FORD F-150
  • 5.0L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 300,000 MILES
When giving vehicle throttle it tries to bog down and makes clunking noise and will barely move with black smoke computer. Not giving out codes as before and have checked all fuses and wiring. Have replaced fuel filter, air filter, distributor caps, new plugs, new wires, O2 sensor. No gas in pressure regulator vacuum line. Pressure doesn't rise when removing vacuum hose from regulator muffler has big hole in it.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, June 29th, 2021 AT 9:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,913 POSTS
This sounds like you have a plugged exhaust system (catalytic converter) these guides can help us fix it:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Tuesday, June 29th, 2021 AT 9:08 AM (Merged)

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links