1995 Ford F-150 No start engine stall

Tiny
MICT
  • 1995 FORD F-150

Electrical problem
1995 Ford F150 V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 180000 miles

My '95 F-150 5.8l occasionally will not start and engine will stall when driving. When this happens there is no spark from the ignition coil. I can sit there and try to start the truck form 10 min. To an hour and it will eventually start. This happens when the truck has been sitting for awhile.

Recently when it happened the engine was sitting for 14 hrs. When I tried to start the engine sounded like it was going to start but it was weak. I checked for spark and it was very weak then went away. After trying for 30 min. It started.

I have replaced the ignition coil and ignition control module. I took it to an auto shop a month a go and they said it was a bad wire between ICM and distributor. It was fine for awhile but problem returned. I took it back, they had it for 4 days and told me they got it to act up one but not long enough to use a scoop on it. They basically said it could be a number of things, pick up coil, ignition switch, bad wire some where, and good luck to you. Funny thing is when I got the truck back the second time I tried to start it, it exibited the problem, in fact it did it twice in the same day. Please help!

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Sunday, August 31st, 2008 AT 4:50 PM

23 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER

Do this hook up a wire to the battery positive terminal take it straight to the coil positive terminal and tell me what happened this is where we start-

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Sunday, August 31st, 2008 AT 5:07 PM
Tiny
MICT
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Should the original three wires be connected to the coil? If so, how should I connect my wire from battery to coil? Which side of the coil is positive, the red wire?

Thanks, mict

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Sunday, August 31st, 2008 AT 6:30 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
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I want you to check fuse U 20amp in engine compartment fuse box. Is its okay?

Hook it up on the red and light green wire-do you have this?


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/12900_coil_7.jpg

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Sunday, August 31st, 2008 AT 6:39 PM
Tiny
MICT
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All fuses are good. Still fuzzy on connecting wire from batt. To coil. Just remove some of the insulation from red/green wire while still connected to coil?

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Sunday, August 31st, 2008 AT 7:01 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER

What you're doing is bypassing the ignition circuit thru the ignition switch to get to the coil. Now if I may ask do you have power at the coil positive? No power there you won't get spark-the problem lies between the coil and ignition switch.

You can remove the red and light green wire as you wish and hook your wire to the coil

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Sunday, August 31st, 2008 AT 7:06 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
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When key at run or start it powers the coil direct thru fuse U 20amp-

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-1
Sunday, August 31st, 2008 AT 7:09 PM
Tiny
MICT
  • MEMBER

I tested the coil wires with a volt meter because I do not have alligator clips and only single core wire. I put positive side of meter to red/green wire and neg. To the yellow cable, with key on I saw 11.92 volts. Is this what you are looking for?

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Sunday, August 31st, 2008 AT 7:24 PM
Tiny
MICT
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Sorry I ment yellow wire.

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Sunday, August 31st, 2008 AT 7:27 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
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We have voltage to the coil -check the resistance of the distributor pick up coil and check for short to ground.

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Sunday, August 31st, 2008 AT 10:35 PM
Tiny
MICT
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Am I to take the inside of the dist' apart or is there an easier way?

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Sunday, August 31st, 2008 AT 11:04 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
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Sir do you have a repair manual? Its in there is to how to check it-measure both ends with an ohmmeter then check it if its grounded on both ends. If it gives a reading its shorted out. Give me the readings when you comeback.

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Sunday, August 31st, 2008 AT 11:09 PM
Tiny
EUFORIA
  • MEMBER

Hey did you solve your issue? I am dealing with this now. I am getting no spark at all. I have replaced the cap, rotor, coil, module on the side wall. I am now replacing the part inside the distributor. I am getting power to both plugs on the coil. Fuel pressure is good. I have no clue on how to change the parts on the inside. I am right there but the top plate is in the way. I dont know how to get it out.

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Sunday, September 14th, 2008 AT 2:42 PM
Tiny
MICT
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I have not solved the issue. From what I read in order to replace the "pick up coil" or as the Chilton's manual calls it, the stator, you will have to pull the distributor from the motor and get at it that way.

There is a resistance test the manual and the person that was helping me mentioned, but it was very vague on how to do it. Manual says to pull dist' from motor and take it apart. Says the resistance should be 800-900ohms. Doesn't say which wires to test(there's 6 if I recall and to test the ICM with it. The illustration showed a dist' with a ICM on it. My ICM is on the firewall. I tried a number of combos of wires at the connector that is outside of the dist' and came up with different readings. Colors together 03.0ohms-06.0ohms. Red to green fluctuations between 80-103kohms. Red to blacks 3.72mohms.
Green to blacks 2.547mohms. I have no idea if this was the correct way to do it.

Did your truck exhibit any of my symptoms? Engine cutting out while driving then starts after 30 min, running fine then go to restart and no spark wait 30 min. Then starts, while driving engine shuts off for 2 seconds then picks back up again. Mine has been starting good for the last week but a few hiccups, can feel engine cut out for half a second feels like its down shifting but truck does not slow or rpms go up, and the tach needle will go back and forth between 1,000 and 2,000 while coasting, I step on the gas and it will go back to "normal".

Good luck with project, I'm thinking of doing the same thing this week. Let me know how it turned out.

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Monday, September 15th, 2008 AT 3:01 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Pulling the distributor out will be easier to deal with the problem,


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_Distributor95FordF150_1.jpg



Item # 5 = Ignition stator
Item # 8 = Ignition module.

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Monday, September 15th, 2008 AT 9:57 AM
Tiny
MICT
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Thanks for the info. Do my symptoms sound like the ignition stator? I called a Ford dealer to ask if they ever saw a problem like mine. Of course they would not let me talk to a mechanic and said when the problem occurred again to bring it to a dealer and they could find the problem because they had better diagnostic equipment and could go deeper than the non dealer auto shops. True or false?

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Monday, September 15th, 2008 AT 2:52 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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It is possible for the stator to be faulty to cause the coil not to spark as it is not providing the proper pulse required.

Item #5 is the pickup coil and it should be only 2 wire where you can test the resistance.

Just want to confirm the diagram I posted is correct. There are different variants and if it is not correct, please provide me with the exact engine variant so I can get the correct diagram.

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Tuesday, September 16th, 2008 AT 6:57 AM
Tiny
MICT
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There are 7 wires coming out of the distributor, a red, 2 pairs of black, and a pair of green. The diagram seemed accurate. I tested a new stator against the old one and the readings from new one were steady where as the old one had fluctuating readings.

An update for Euforia: I bought a new stator and was going to put it in last night and found out that the gear on the distributor is impossible to get off with a gear puller. I cracked the shaft on the dist' and had to buy a dist' today. If you are going to replace the stator take it to a shop and have them do it. I had to take the new dist' to a shop and have the old gear put on because the new dist' had a cast iron gear and old one was steel, the different gears are not interchangeable and can cause damage to the camshaft if you try to swap.

So far the new dist' is ok, truck seems to have a little more get up and go. I only drove it 2mi. So far today and it did not hiccup on me. Yesterday as I was driving to get the stator the truck hiccuped on me 1/2 mi. Down the road then stalled on me awhile later. Hopefully this solved the problem, only time will tell and I am not holding my breath.

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Tuesday, September 16th, 2008 AT 3:02 PM
Tiny
EUFORIA
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Ok I changed everything the part that finally got it running was #5 in the pic above. It is still sluggish on the low end. I think new spark plugs will help. My gap is like 1000 over the normal gap. Not to bad but that was only one plug. I did not have any issues that you had. I stop the truck to let a girl cross the street and it died right there. I found one fuse blown witch was under the hood. Not sure what it controlled, was 25 fuse. It is a pain to remove the distributor, to replace that part. There are two pins and you have to torque one of the bolts. When past that part it is not that bad. If you do not turn the motor after removing you can reset it to the exact spot. That way you dont have to do the TDC crap. Anyways thats what I did. I hope it helps you cause I wanted to take the Glock and make swiss from the ford. I say blow that ford up, and go foreign. If it was a honda I would have finished the first day.

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Tuesday, September 16th, 2008 AT 9:24 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Glad that both of you had solved the problem. Remember to get the ignition timing checked to ensure that it is at its recommended mark.

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Wednesday, September 17th, 2008 AT 5:52 AM
Tiny
EUFORIA
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Hey I am having another issue. We pulled the distributor. We did not set the TDC. We marked the spots and reset the distributor the way it was. My issue now is the low end is so sluggish. You can floor the gas and it goes so slow. Once past the low end it seems to run ok. What can my issue be. Should I set the TDC? This issue really bugs me since the truck goes no where.

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Thursday, September 18th, 2008 AT 3:21 PM

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