AC Leak

Tiny
STEVEKOZEL
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 FORD EXPEDITION
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 65,000 MILES
The AC on our Expedition suddenly stopped working (blowing cold air). My local Ford dealer said they found a leak in the line (very hard to access) that goes under the vehicle to the rear AC unit. They've given me two options. Replace it with a 3 piece line (factory is 1 pc) which is pretty labor intensive and will cost ~$1500, or option 2. Cap off the line so the will no longer be a rear AC (just heat) and replumb lines which cost ~$550. This is on top of the $200 it cost to charge and dye/leak detect the system. Do have any other options and if I go with #2 to save $ are there major reason's I'll regret it? I do plan to own the car for another 2-3 years. I appreciate your input.
Do you
have the same problem?
Yes
No
Tuesday, June 2nd, 2009 AT 3:00 PM

39 Replies

Tiny
BUDDYCRAIGG
  • EXPERT
Cap it off.

Cars have been made with only front AC since they started making cars.

Your back seat passengers wont even notice, as they expect the back to take longer for the cold air to get to them.

(but you might want to get a second opinion about where the leak is) 1500 sounds a little expensive for an A/C line
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+3
Wednesday, June 3rd, 2009 AT 12:40 AM
Tiny
JIM LEAS
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 FORD EXPEDITION
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 118,000 MILES
Ac used to work fine, went to add freon, but heard a pressure loss somewhere below passenger side of the motor, can not find the leak. Is there a common hose malfunction in this area I should look for?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, April 26th, 2019 AT 6:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEVINJRGASTON
  • MEMBER
This sounds like an AC hose or the evaporator core is leaking here is a guide to help you pin point he leak and then repair it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/air-conditioner-leak-detection

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/re-charge-an-air-conditioner-system

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, April 26th, 2019 AT 6:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DANEGARDENHIREAIDEN
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 FORD EXPEDITION
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 86,000 MILES
Air conditioner leaking whatsmells like radiator fluid inside cab underneath cup holder. How do I take appart dash to find and fix theproblem
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, April 26th, 2019 AT 6:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DAVE H
  • MEMBER
This is coolant leaking from the heater core ?? big job i'm afraid ?

HEATER CORE
Removal & Installation (Front A/C-Heater System)
Disconnect negative battery cable. Drain radiator. Remove instrument panel. See INSTRUMENT PANEL . On 5.4L engines, remove junction block splash shield. Disconnect cable ends from starter relay. Remove junction block bracket.
On all engines, compress heater core hose holding tabs. Disconnect heater hoses at heater core. Remove A/C plenum demister adapter screw. Remove A/C plenum demister adapter. Disconnect vacuum line.
Remove 2 heater core bracket screws. Remove heater core bracket. Remove 13 screws from plenum assembly top. Remove plenum assembly top. Remove blend door assembly from case. Remove heater core. To install, reverse removal procedure. Tighten bolts to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS .
INSTRUMENT PANEL
Removal & Installation
Disable air bag system. See AIR BAG SYSTEM SAFETY article in GENERAL SERVICING. Move power seats rearward (if equipped). Move adjustable pedal to full forward position (if equipped). Release mounting tabs and position power distribution box aside. Remove 3 bolts and remove bulkhead electrical connectors in engine compartment.
From inside vehicle, remove bulkhead electrical connector insulator and unclip bulkhead electrical connectors from dash panel. Remove front center floor console (if equipped). See FRONT CENTER FLOOR CONSOLE . Remove lower steering column cover. Remove valance panel. Disconnect Restraint Control Module (RCM). Disconnect blend door harness connector. Disconnect climate control panel vacuum harness connector. Remove left and right sill plates. Remove left and right door opening scuff plates. Move left and right door weatherstrip seals aside. Remove left and right "A" pillar lower trim panels. Remove left and right side assist handles. Remove left and right windshield garnish moldings. Disconnect brakelight switch electrical connector.
Disconnect adjustable pedal motor harness connector (if equipped). Remove radio and Generic Electronic Module (GEM)/Central Timer Module (CTM) ground bolts. Disconnect left side main wiring harness and bulkhead connectors. Remove steering column opening cover reinforcement. Disconnect air bag sliding contact and anti-theft electrical connectors. Disconnect remaining harness connectors from steering column.
Disconnect transmission range indicator from steering column (if equipped). Remove steering column support nuts. Lower steering column. Remove 3 instrument panel attaching bolts through steering column opening. Remove instrument panel reinforcement bolt (below left corner of cigarette lighter). Disconnect inertia fuel shut-off switch harness connector. Remove right side ground bolt. Disconnect air suspension switch harness connector (if equipped).
Disconnect right side main wiring harness connectors. Disconnect blower motor harness connectors. Disconnect Electronic Automatic Temperature Control (EATC) hose from evaporator case (if equipped). Disconnect in-line antenna connector. Remove instrument panel relay cover. Disconnect autolamp sensor harness connector (if equipped). Disconnect sunload sensor harness connector (if equipped). Remove glove box.
Wearing safety glasses, disconnect passenger's side air bag module connector. Remove passenger's side air bag module screws. Remove passenger's side air bag module.
Remove instrument panel reinforcement bolt below and to left of glove box. Remove instrument panel bolts behind passenger's side air bag module opening. Remove instrument panel bolt on relay bracket. Loosen instrument floor brace bolts and nuts.
Remove left and right instrument panel cowl nuts. Remove instrument panel cowl top bolts. With an assistant, remove instrument panel. See Fig. 23 . To install, reverse removal procedure.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/266999_23_1.jpg

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, April 26th, 2019 AT 6:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOLLYJO
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 FORD EXPEDITION
  • V8
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 42,000 MILES
Hello
My car is not blowing cold air in the front portion, back air is working fine. We brought it to the auto place, they say they have to run electronic diag. Later they call and say its the temp blend door actuator, also maybe have a sm leak. They say it will cost $700 to fix problem. We tell them ok. They call later for us to pick up the car. They say, we need a thermal expansion valve. But have to order one. Told us the it will cost another $200+. Shouldnt they have cked the valve first, before doing the other job?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, April 26th, 2019 AT 6:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
The blend air door was the problem. You only have one AC unit in the car. If the rear was working, the system should be fine. However, the blend door will cause you to get heat if it is stuck in the wrong position, so I feel they were correct with that. IS the AC working properly now that you have it back?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, April 26th, 2019 AT 6:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BARCHOBOY
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 FORD EXPEDITION
Air Conditioning problem
2002 Ford Expedition V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic

My A/C won't blow air out of the front vents. It works perfectly fine in the rear vents. I have checked all the fuses and there are not frayed wires. What could the problem possibly be?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, April 26th, 2019 AT 6:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
EATC MODULE SELF-TEST The self-test can be initiated at any time. Normal operation of the system stops when the self-test is activated. 1. To enter the self-test, press OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously then press the AUTOMATIC button within 2 seconds. Display will show a pulse tracer going around the center of the display window. The test may run as long as 30 seconds. Record all DTCs displayed. 2. If any DTCs appear during self -test, follow the diagnostic procedure given under ACTION for each DTC given. 3. If a condition exists but no DTCs appear during the self-test, see SYMPTOM TESTS. The EATC system is Inoperative, Intermittent or Improper Operation. 4. To exit self-test and retain all intermittent DTCs, push the blue (cooler temperature) button. The control will exit self-test, retain all intermittent DTCs and turn OFF (display blank). 5. To exit self-test and clear all DTCs, press the DEFROST button. The vacuum florescent display window will show 888 and all function symbols for one second. Then, the EATC control assembly will turn OFF (display blank) and all DTCs will be cleared. 6. Always exit self-test before powering the system down (system turned off). Intermittent DTCs will be deleted after 80 ignition switch ON cycles after the intermittent condition occurs. NOTE: The EATC module self-test will not detect concerns associated with data link messages like engine coolant temperature or vehicle speed signals. A scan tool must be used to retrieve these concerns. The EATC module self-test will detect concerns in the system control functions and will display hard DTCs in addition to intermittent diagnostic trouble codes for concerns that occur during system operation. The vehicle interior temperature should be between 40 -90 F (4 -32 C) when performing the self-test. If the temperatures are not within the specified ranges, false in- car temperature sensor DTCs will be displayed.
Post the results.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, April 26th, 2019 AT 6:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
EMILYWALKER
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 FORD EXPEDITION
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 75,000 MILES
AC was blowing fuse so I had a new compressor put on it. It worked for 5 days and quit again. Didn't blow a fuse this time, and it is full of gas. Any ideas on what could be wrong with it?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, April 26th, 2019 AT 6:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Was the clutch replaced with the new compressor? Are you getting power to the clutch? Does the compressor cycle on and off at all?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Friday, April 26th, 2019 AT 6:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
EMILYWALKER
  • MEMBER
The compressor isn't engaging at all. I am being told the clutch was replaced with the new compressor, said it was a "complete" compressor. I do not know if the clutch is getting power, how can I tell?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Friday, April 26th, 2019 AT 6:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
The clutch is usually part of the new compressor, so chances are they are being honest. To check for power, there is a single wire that runs to the compressor clutch. Use a test light or amp gauge to see if there is power to it.

NOTE: Please be careful near the pullies and belt.

Let me know what you find.
Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, April 26th, 2019 AT 6:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
EMILYWALKER
  • MEMBER
Compressor contunies to blow fuses. I had the Clutch Coil replaced and it worked for about 5 minutes and blew the fuse. The Fuse Buddy shows its only pulling 3.7 amps but its blowing 15 and 20 amp fuses. Now I am told there must be a naked wire between the compressor and fuse box and when I am driving its causing it to touch metal or another wire causing the fuse to blow. I have gotten the climate control wiring diagram from the dealer, and they gave me a pinpoint test printout. However the pinpoint test tells me nothing because I don't have a scan tool. I am told by the parts store it could be a relay, but I cant find an ac compressor or AC clutch relay. Other than a short in the wiring, any other suggestions?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, April 26th, 2019 AT 6:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CBAILEY75
  • MEMBER
  • 2008 FORD EXPEDITION
V8 two wheel drive automatic 50,000 miles. It started with intermittent stoppage and finally the front A/C will not blow air at all while the rear A/C will continue to blow air and the air is cold. It is an intermittent issue on top of everything else. There are times when the front unit will turn on just as normal as it should and then other times, it will not turn on at all, while at other times, it will turn on only after the rear unit has been on for awhile.

There is no rhyme or reason as to what makes the front unit decide to come on. I have tried turning the control to reflect the front unit blow air from the top and bottom and I can feel a very slight bit of air flowing from the air vents. When this happens, sometimes the full front unit will kick on and other times it just runs with the very slight air. Other times, the front unit will not blow any air even with the control knob in that position. Yesterday, the front unit worked perfectly as if there was never an issue and this morning nothing.

If it is the blower, I do not know. It seems to me like a vacuum issue as I can hear something in the air vents trying to open or close. Maybe that is what it is? I just do not know but other times, I cannot hear the same sound. Did I help at all?

Okay, When the air does blow from the front, it blows exactly where it is supposed to. But when it does not blow, it does not blow from any of the front vents. So when it does kick on and I have the control set to AC, it blows from the proper AC vents. Does that make sense?

Additionally I am speaking about the AC, not the heater just in case that makes a difference.

It is very frustrating.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, April 26th, 2019 AT 6:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
The relay wouldn't cause the fuse to blow. You have to have a short to the compressor.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, April 26th, 2019 AT 6:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Yes, I understand. It sounds like there is a problem with the blower motor. What needs to be done is this; when it does not work, you need to check if the blower motor is getting power. You can use a test light to check.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/blower-fan-motor-works-on-high-speed-only

(There is an excellent post eight entries down)

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+8
Friday, April 26th, 2019 AT 6:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CBAILEY75
  • MEMBER
With the vehicle only two and half years old and at 50,000 miles, would it sound to you more like an electrical issue or a blower motor needing to be replaced? In either way, what you expect the cost for repairs to be at a typical automotive and reputable repair shop? Thanks.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+5
Friday, April 26th, 2019 AT 6:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Honestly, I would think it has to do with a bad ground, but I would have to check it. If there is power to the motor and it does not run, either the motor is bad or there is no ground.

As far as the cost, the motor will be under a hundred dollars from a parts store. The labor should be no more than 1.5 hours.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+4
Friday, April 26th, 2019 AT 6:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CBAILEY75
  • MEMBER
Thank you very much for all of your input and guidance. You have an awesome website and offer a great service. If you believe in heaven then you will have a seat saved for you there as you are truly giving back to the community and you treat us morons like regular people. Thank you again and have a great evening. Chris Bailey
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+7
Friday, April 26th, 2019 AT 6:59 PM (Merged)

Please login or register to post a reply.

Recommended Guides