My engine cranks over but not run can you help?

Tiny
RAYRAY95
  • MEMBER
  • 1988 FORD RANGER
  • 2.9L
  • V6
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 180 MILES
Was driving engine cut out for split second then kept going like nothing happened. Then it totally quit running. So replaced ignition control module got it started then shut hood and it shut off and can’t get it started. I replaced terminals they were beat up, then lost spark. So replaced the entire ignition has new spark plugs, spark plug wires, battery, and starter.
Wednesday, March 20th, 2019 AT 9:04 PM

49 Replies

Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello,

This could be a problem with your ignition control module. In the diagrams down below I have included for you a factory Troubleshooting Flowchart Guide for you to go through. It will take you step by step on what to test and test for to find out what is going on with your ignition system. The tests are straight forward and only require a test light, Multi-meter, and a spark tester. Please go through it and get back to us with what you find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Friday, August 14th, 2020 AT 11:27 AM
Tiny
RAYRAY95
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
2.47 on ignition module 4.79 on harness on one.
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Friday, August 14th, 2020 AT 11:27 AM
Tiny
RAYRAY95
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Found a white wire with a thin black stripe dis connected from a pig tail on driver side coming out of cab.
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Friday, August 14th, 2020 AT 11:27 AM
Tiny
RAYRAY95
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Just replaced primary coil. Still nothing.
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Friday, August 14th, 2020 AT 11:27 AM
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello again,

In your original post when you said that you replaced the terminal because they were beat up, what terminals were you referring to?

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Friday, August 14th, 2020 AT 11:27 AM
Tiny
RAYRAY95
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
The battery terminals.
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Friday, August 14th, 2020 AT 11:27 AM
Tiny
RAYRAY95
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
I meant they.
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Friday, August 14th, 2020 AT 11:27 AM
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello again,

What did you get for the readings on your tests?

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Friday, August 14th, 2020 AT 11:27 AM
Tiny
RAYRAY95
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Figure 11 I got 2.47 ohms figure 10 wiring harness I got4.79 ohms.
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Friday, August 14th, 2020 AT 11:27 AM
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello again,

Okay, fig. 10 was wanting you to check for voltage at pins 2, 3, and 4 of the ignition control module connector. Have the negative probe(Black) connected to the base of the distributor. Unhook the "S" wire from the starter solenoid. If the voltage at each pin is 11 volts - 12.6 volts then go to next text. If the voltage at any one of the three pins, 2, 3, or 4 is less than 11 volts then check for worn connector or wiring. Repair as necessary. Do this test for me and get back to us with what you find out please.

Thank you,
Alex
2CarPros
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Friday, August 14th, 2020 AT 11:27 AM
Tiny
RAYRAY95
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
It was the fuel pump (defective) thank you.
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Friday, August 14th, 2020 AT 11:27 AM
Tiny
JUNKYARDDOG.321
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1988 FORD RANGER
  • 2.9L
  • V6
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 200,000 MILES
Had a misfire in engine. Changed coil, TFI, EEC and MAP sensors. No help. Did full tuneup, would not start unless I unplugged the MAP, then would run 1700 rpm's, very sluggish. Run code reader, came up 22, MAP sensor "out of range". Changed distributor, now the EEC and fuel sensors don't " click" when key is turned. Any ideas?
I turn the key on, dash lights work, starter cranks engine but does not fire. I tried to read the codes again. I hooked the reader to the test plug, turned the key on, turned the reader on and nothing happened. The first time I read the codes, the systems clicked and read the codes. 2nd time, the system did not click and the reader would not function.
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Tuesday, March 2nd, 2021 AT 7:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 50,135 POSTS
Let check for spark at the plugs. here is a guide to help us get started:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Also will it run on starting fluid?
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Tuesday, March 2nd, 2021 AT 7:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JUNKYARDDOG.321
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Figured it out. The new catalyst converter came apart and plugged up, causing the problem. While diagnosing this problem, the timing chain jumped.
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Tuesday, March 2nd, 2021 AT 7:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 50,135 POSTS
Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.
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Tuesday, March 2nd, 2021 AT 7:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JON22ROMANO
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 1988 FORD RANGER
  • 2.9L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 150,000 MILES
Turns over just fine but won’t start. It has a brand new fuel sending unit and fuel pump I can hear the pump when I turn the accessories on, I checked for spark and it does have spark. Tried resetting the inertia switch but still nothing all the hoses look good as I was thinking it could be a air leak problem but haven’t found any issue yet, cleaned every ground wire I could find and check all the fuses and everything looks fine no burnt out fuses and no melted or corroded wires. I’m officially stumped please help.
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Tuesday, March 2nd, 2021 AT 7:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,055 POSTS
Hi,

The first thing I suggest is to check for diagnostic trouble codes. On this vehicle, you don't need a scanner. All that is needed is a basic test light. Here is a link that explains how to get the codes.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/ford-lincoln-mercury-obd1-1995-and-earlier-diagnostic-trouble-code-definition-and-retrieval

If you have spark and fuel, it should run unless something has cause low compression or a timing issue, which in this case sounds unlikely. So, do me a favor. See if it starts for a couple seconds using starting fluid. If it does, then we know if it is a fuel related issue. Even though you hear the pump, it may not be producing enough pressure or there could be a sensor issue preventing the injectors from working.

If it does start, then you need to confirm fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Here is a link that explains how that is done.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

If fuel pressure is good, then we may have lost the fuel injector pulse. You will need a noid or test light to test for an injection pulse. Here is a link that explains how to check injectors.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-fuel-injector

Okay. if none of that works, let me know. I will explain what to check next.

Take care and if possible, let me know what you have found or if you have other questions.
Joe
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Tuesday, March 2nd, 2021 AT 7:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JON22ROMANO
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
She’s running again, thanks for the help.
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Tuesday, March 2nd, 2021 AT 7:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,055 POSTS
Happy to help. What did you find?

Joe
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Tuesday, March 2nd, 2021 AT 7:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JON22ROMANO
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Replaced the ignition coil, fuel pump relay and the ignition starter switch and it fired right up. Not sure what the issue was but if I had to put my money on anything I’d have to say it was the fuel pump relay.
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Tuesday, March 2nd, 2021 AT 7:11 PM (Merged)

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