I did compression check on all cylinders, 6 were low, one was normal and one was high. At this point I suspected blown head gaskets, in part because a couple years ago I began losing small amounts of coolant and seeing condensation in the oil fill cap. Oil was not milky, but this continued until I put a stop leak in, then is stopped. I pulled the heads off and had them rebuilt. The rebuilder said both heads were warped. I reassembled the engine and same condition, cranks but will not start.
Now the engine codes were Random/Multiple Misfire, O2 Sensor circuit voltage B1S1 low, and MAP/MAF – Throttle Position Correlation. I purchased new MAF and MAP sensors and changed them. Still not start. Now additional code, Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Low. I then changed the throttle body position sensor. Still not start.
I checked to see if I had spark by grounding a spark plug on the engine and cranking it. I did not see any spark, but I was far away because I was only one available to crank it. I changed crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor, still not start. I purchased spark check light and noide lights. With these I saw I was getting spark, but bank 1 was more weak. I found one of the two ground wires on bank 1 ignition module wiring was not connected to ground and after adding a wire to ground the spark intensity was better. I then sprayed starting fluid into the manifold, still no start. Sometime during all of this I discovered that if I left the truck sit overnight and then put the throttle to the floor, after a cranking a while it would try to start but sounded “hollow”.
Now I purchased a new ECM and had it programmed to my vin. No change, engine cranks but will not start and no the ECM shows no codes.
At this point I really can’t figure it out. I’m wondering if the timing chain jumped a tooth, but that seems really unlikely. More likely it would break. Any ideas?
Tuesday, August 19th, 2025 AT 7:47 AM





