1995 Chevy S-10 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual 91000 miles
while operating the clutch pedal it will squeak like an unoiled door hinge; first quietly but will get progressively louder and then the pedal will stick when depressed. The sticking when depressed usually happens at a stop sign when the pedal is depressed for a longer time but when the squeak is at its loudest it will happen while driving. So far I haven't been stranded with the pedal becomming totally inoperable. Once after the pedal stuck and I stalled a couple times it began to work with no noise for a couple days and then the noise returned. The longer the drive the louder and more troublesome the squeak/stickiness becomes. A cursory check with my mechanic determined that the pedal pivot point wasn't the issue and he couldn't hear any noise from the slave cylinder with a stethoscope.
Is this noise inside, or outside the vehicle? What is the service history in regards to the clutch?
July, 5, 2010 AT 6:32 AM
The noise seems to be coming from inside, under the dash, drivers side. Sorry I didn't reply sooner but this is the first time I used this service and was waiting for a reply via email. I got the truck used last February and it has 91k miles. I don't know if anything has been done with the clutch. The fluid in the slave cylinder looks clean. It seems to have been well taken care of. The strange thins is that often times there is no noise at all, but when it happens it starts small slowly gets louder. When it first happened I thought something just needed lubricated in the pedal and the squeak was rather steady with no hangups of the pedal. The stickiness in the pedal is a recent development.
July, 5, 2010 AT 11:42 PM
What seems odd is that the noise is inside, and that the pedal will stick. If the noise was outside, I would think you had a clutch fork pivot that was worn. The spring pressure of the clutch cover(aka pressure plate) is what returns the pedal on a hydraulic system. It would seem that a pedal concern, or a hydraulic concern, would not be able to hold back the return pressure of the cover. Have you noticed any swollen rubber parts, like the diaphragm in the clutch master cylinder. The thought would be that maybe something other than brake fluid was added to the clutch master cylinder, and made the rubber swell. I am not certain if there is a bleeder screw on the slave cylinder, but if/when the pedal stuck down, and you opened the bleed screw, and there was pressure release, then possibly the clutch master cylinder is not replenishing for some reason. Another possibility would be to disconnect the pushrod from the pedal when it is actively squeaking, and see if it still squeaks when exercising the pedal. One possibility on this, is that if it stops squeaking, you also need to consider that the load was removed from the pedal and that alone may make a change. There is a bulletin that involves a pedal squeak, it relates to the clutch fork pivot I mentioned earlier, here is it for your reference.
MODELS: 1984-95 CHEVROLET AND GMC TRUCK S/T MODELS WITH BORG-WARNER 5 SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION (ML2, ML3, MW1) AND 2.2L, 2.5L, OR 2.8L ENGINES (VINS E, R, A, 4 - RPOS LN2, L38, LN8, LL2)
CONDITION: SOME OWNERS MAY EXPERIENCE A CLUTCH PEDAL SQUEAK. THIS NOISE USUALLY STOPS WHEN A SLIGHT AMOUNT OF PRESSURE IS APPLIED TO THE CLUTCH PEDAL.
CAUSE: THE NOISE OR SQUEAK IS CAUSED BY A DRY CONTACT AREA BETWEEN THE CLUTCH FORK AND BALL STUD. THIS RESULTS IN METAL TO METAL CONTACT.
CORRECTION: INSTALL A GREASEABLE BALL STUD. GREASEABLE BALL STUDS ENTERED PRODUCTION DECEMBER 1994 AND CAN BE IDENTIFIED BY A GREASE FITTING ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE CLUTCH HOUSING.
SERVICE PROCEDURE: 1. REMOVE TRANSMISSION, SLAVE CYLINDER, FLYWHEEL HOUSING AND CLUTCH FORK.
-COMPLETE REMOVAL DIRECTIONS CAN BE FOUND IN SECTIONS 7B AND 7C OF THE APPROPRIATE S/T SERVICE MANUAL.
2. REMOVE THE BALL STUD FROM THE FLYWHEEL HOUSING.
3. INSPECT THE FLYWHEEL HOUSING (FIGURE 1) AND LOCATE THE RAISED BALL STUD MOUNTING AREA.
-RAISED AREA WILL APPEAR ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE FLYWHEEL HOUSING (FIGURE 1).
-A MOLD PARTING LINE CROSSES THIS RAISED AREA HORIZONTALLY DIVIDING IT INTO APPROXIMATELY AN UPPER AND LOWER HALF (FIGURE 2).
4. DETERMINE LOCATION FOR GREASE ZERK MOUNTING HOLE (FIGURE 2).
-THE HOLE SHOULD BE LOCATED APPROXIMATELY 1/16 IN. (1.5 MM) TO THE BOTTOM OF THE MOLD PARTING LINE AND WITHIN AN AREA OF 11/16 - 1-1/8 IN. (17.5 - 28.5 MM) OF THE TRANSMISSION MOUNTING SURFACE.
-A HOLE LESS THAN 11/16 IN. (17.5 MM) FROM THE TRANSMISSION MOUNTING SURFACE MAY NOT ENTER THE BALL STUD CAVITY AND A HOLE GREATER THAN 1-1/8 IN. (28.5 MM) MAY CONTACT THE THREADED END OF THE BALL STUD.
-THE GREASE ZERK USED SHOULD HAVE NO MORE THAN 1/4 IN. (6.4 MM) OF THREADED LENGTH TO AVOID ENTERING THE BALL STUD CAVITY.
5. DRILL A HOLE OF REQUIRED SIZE (DETERMINED BY DIAMETER/THREAD PITCH OF ZERK USED) IN LOCATION DETERMINED IN STEP 4.
IMPORTANT: THE WALL THICKNESS IN THIS AREA IS APPROXIMATELY 1/4". USE CAUTION TO PREVENT PASSING THROUGH BALL STUD CAVITY WHEN DRILLING THROUGH THE INNER WALL OF THE HOUSING.
6. TAP THE GREASE ZERK HOLE (THREAD SIZE IS DETERMINED BY THE GREASE ZERK). INSTALL THE GREASE ZERK AND THE PREDRILLED BALL STUD (P/N 15679715).
-TIGHTEN BALL STUD TO 35 LBS. FT. (47 N.M.).
IMPORTANT: THOROUGHLY CLEAN OUT ALL METAL CHIPS BEFORE INSTALLING ZERK AND BALL STUD TO PREVENT PLUGGING THE PREDRILLED BALL STUD.
7. GREASE THE ZERK FITTING UNTIL A SMALL AMOUNT OF GREASE FLOWS FROM THE END OF THE BALL STUD.
8. IF THE CLUTCH FORK SHOWS SIGNS OF WEAR, INSTALL A NEW CLUTCH FORK (P/N 15704443). REINSTALL THE CLUTCH HOUSING, SLAVE CYLINDER AND TRANSMISSION.
-COMPLETE INSTALLATION DIRECTIONS CAN BE FOUND IN SECTIONS 7B AND 7C OF THE APPROPRIATE S/T SERVICE MANUAL.
9. GREASE THE ASSEMBLED BALL STUD LIGHTLY THROUGH ZERK FITTING. GREASE ZERK EVERY 15,000 MILES THEREAFTER.
NOTICE: CARE SHOULD BE TAKEN TO USE ONLY ENOUGH GREASE TO KEEP THE FORK FROM SQUEAKING. EXCESSIVE GREASING CAN CONTAMINATE THE CLUTCH DISC FRICTION SURFACES RESULTING IN SLIP OR CHATTER AND THE NEED TO REPLACE THE DISC.
10. PROVIDE THE OWNER OF THE VEHICLE WITH A COPY OF THE DOCUMENT ON THE LAST PAGE OF THIS BULLETIN.
SERVICE PARTS INFORMATION QUANTITY PART NUMBER DESCRIPTION REQUIRED 15679715 PREDRILLED BALL STUD 1 15704443 CLUTCH FORK 1
July, 8, 2010 AT 4:38 PM
Well, there is definitely a noise under the truck. I really thought it was inside but it must have been just transmitted to the inside. When someone else presses the pedal I can hear it underneath. I'll check out your hunch on the noise being outside next week; soonest I can get it in the shop. Odd thing is that it's a lot of the time but not all the time. First thing in the morning everything's quiet. Once the noise starts it just gets stronger with time until the pedal starts sticking.
You probably think I'm being scatterbrained but at first when I got down near the pedals and pushed the clutch with my hand, there was an obvious noise that I'd swear came from under the dash.
I greased the zerk you mentioned but that didn't fix the problem either. The intermittent nature of the problem is annoying. The only constant is that when the noise does start it only increased in intensity and you can feel something in the pedal. At its peak the pedal will stick when depressed. So far its always released.
July, 14, 2010 AT 10:20 PM
You have to look at what is in motion, the pedal assembly, the clutch fork, the pressure plate, and the clutch disc floating on the input shaft splines. If the noise is not confined to the clutch pedal pivot, the other pivot is the ball stud. Hydraulics are not usually going to cause a squeak, nor bind the pedal against spring pressure. If it hasn't stuck after lubrication, the ball stud could have been neglected of lubrication long enough, that there is some wear. This wear may be causing some issues. You only have so many moving parts, and if the pedal can be ruled out, it may be time to remove the transmission for an inspection.
April, 9, 2013 AT 7:31 PM
I had the same problem with my S10 pickup. To fix it I had to change the clutch sleeve. When I took the clutch sleeve off and pushed the rod in manuelly it made the same squick that it made when I pushed the clutch in before I took it off. Also it stuck down when its supposed to spring out. The clutch pushes easier now than it ever has before.