After replacing the transmission solenoid pack, transmission is not shifting properly and codes P0736, P1603 and U0101

Hello, I finally got it out! Then sat for hours trying to remove another seized screw. I woke up with a screwdriver in my hand. Anyway, should all the valves move freely? I guess I have to take them apart to clean them. I am trying to not get intimidated. I should be an expert in auto part photography by the time I am done.

Okay, I'm on it. And I don't think I was asleep; I think I passed out! Lol I have already removed some debris and, yes, a small bit of gasket. Well, here goes nothing!

I am kind of surprised at the debris I have found. All pretty minute, but still there none the less. The chunk of gasket was actually the burnt on crud from the housing. My bad. I hope it is as easy to get back together as you make it sound. Lol I am indeed taking my time because I got to make time for all the praying. I just sip on Long Islands, so I don't have to decide what to take a shot of. Just simplifying what I can. I shall raise a toast to you, maybe two.

Hi Steve, or shall I call you Speed? Ugh, that was feeble at best. The fairgrounds where I live is a block and a half behind us and there is a racetrack. I haven't been to a race, but it is so close I sing the anthem with them. I am certain my racing skills would be several steps above my rendition. Thank goodness the bar is low because my mechanical skills? Fact is I saw my cousin working on a car one day and it occurred to me that if can do it, I can do it. I think he was changing a relay. Anyway, I think I can start trying not to screw things up but, for one thing, the accumulators came flying out and I don't know which spring goes where. Also, there are two blue wire/probe looking things hanging from my car and I hope that's not a bad thing. It's going to be a process because I have to go to you pull it for bolts. Shouldn't be a problem finding what I need as every ypi I have been to seems to have plenty of PTs in stock. I can't imagine why. Oh wait, yes, yes, I can. Again, thank you seems so insignificant.

Okay, been out of commission for a minute. I thought about getting a whole car for parts but have nowhere to put it. I think I can see which spring goes where and I bet I know where the probe thingies go too. Of course, it only rained a time or two while I was down. Let's see what kind of storm I can whip up this time.

Hello Steve, I hope you remember me. I have just now gotten back to my car because of, well, life. In any event, I ended up getting a replacement valve body and just put it in. The battery needs charging so it won't start, but would that cause the car not to go into gear? Do I need to do anything with the manual lever? It sucks because I had to wait so long and I am trying to remember everything, but alas, I am getting old. Thank you so much. And I am sorry, I didn't realize so much time had gone by. My husband had many major medical issues and was in hospital numerous times. He is doing better now but had to retire. I desperately want my car going and I hope you are still willing and able to help me. Either way your help so far has been awesome.

Well, I got it to start. It is doing the same thing it did before. It kicks when I put it into reverse, feels like it engaged but it won't move, little kick when moved to neutral, then shuts off when I put it in drive. Do you think it could be a bad solenoid pack even though it's new? Is there a certain way the manual shift lever should go? There are more codes now too. P0732 P0846 andP0871. Can't afford to take it to a shop now more than ever. I am a big girl, so I am not going to cry, on the outside.

I have done your first suggestion, but one more time won't hurt. Might you have a direction as to what wires to start with? I checked many, many wires and connectors because of the p0882. Should I start there again? You know, I don't know that I can flush the fluid if the dang car isn't going into gear, can I? I haven't tried yet but removed the cooling line and got some fluid out and it doesn't look bad, I guess because half has already been changed. Just thought a flash would be good considering the work. Thanks for the quick get back.

I hope you are doing okay. I worked at a hospital for 20 years and am still amazed at how much everything costs. My husband has serious heart problems so, yeah, he's in the triple digit club too. Try to stay well. We diy-er's need you, lol! So, I printed my wiring diagrams and shall start poking around tomorrow. Wish me luck. Thank you, my good man!

Good day to you sir, I hope all is well. So, today I did the flush. At first, the car did nothing when put in reverse, but the drive kicked in and actually moved but, when reverse started to kick but not kick in, it suddenly started stalling in drive. This was happening as I slowly added the fluid. Now that the fluid is at a good level the car does the die in drive thing. I am going to start testing wires, but I just wanted to ask if something like the od and ud accumulator springs could cause this kind of problem? When I dropped the VB the springs and accumulators went flying. No biggy except one has one spring and the other has two. I researched as best as I could and think I put them back where they belong. Also, the car is acting like it did after the solenoid pack and before the BV. Still, I am guessing those springs could get sprung and lose their function so I thought I would ask. As always, you rock!

That is beautiful! And it is the first I have seen of it. Looking at this breakdown, I see the springs in question, but alas, one of mine has 2 springs, I believe it is the underdrive accum. Also, this is what was happening after the solenoid change but, before the valve body change. I deduced the spring w/small spring belongs to the underdrive by faint markings on the plate. I put it closest to the front of the car. I am sure it is possible that I could recreate the symptoms if I was mistaken. But that would not tell me how the first symptoms arrived. Oh, and generic code p0700 pending, and freezeframe shows P0736 though there might be more, but I am not sure when the codes will set especially since the car is back to not moving again. I will do my wires first thing tomorrow. I am trying not to overthink this. And while I know this, for now, is way beyond me, I figure I've little to lose because if I don't try the car will just sit in my driveway looking pretty until it doesn't anymore. Honestly, I dig the challenge but, certainly welcome and appreciate the help. And did I mention your patience?

When I removed the valve body two pistons came tumbling out as well as two springs and one of those had a smaller spring inside it. I never touched the low/reverse accumulator because as you know, it isn't part of that removable valve body. I am so confused right now! I am thinking I need to go back in there and see what the heck is going on! Do you concur? There is a sticker on my transmission that says something like proudly remade in the USA. Do you think it is a rebuild and they messed it up and that is why the sticker doesn't say proudly remade correctly in the USA? Could a mistake like that cause all of these problems starting with the p0882? Or am I getting all worked up over nothing? Or (And let this be the right or!), Might you have diagnosed my car without laying a hand or eye on it? I sure could use a reason to celebrate!