Car wont start

BKINGSTON057

MEMBER
1997 DODGE STRATUS
2.4L
4 CYL
AUTOMATIC
120,000 MILES

Ive been having some issues while driving the car, it would jolt while idling and even while driving until it was done "warming up" (thats what ive been calling it). While driving it seemed as if it was having a problem switching gears until it was all "warmed up" it would slowly hit 10mph and then slow down and jolt trying to get up to speed. Now its completely not running. We have changed the water pump as well as the hose that connects to the water pump abt 5 months ago, the alternator abt 4 months ago, then the battery, then the spark plugs, and the starter. Once we changed the starter we did have to charge the battery but the car was running again jolting and all, well now it wont start again, the key turns and everything on the dash lights up but no noise from the engine at all. What the hell are we missing?

1 Reply

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
108,320 POSTS

Hi and thanks for using 2carpros.com

When you say there is no noise at all, do you mean the starter doesn't engage? If that is the case, the starter is new, and you have confirmed there is a good connection between the battery and the starter as well as grounds, then I would next check the starter relay. Here are the directions for testing the relay and the circuit. The starter relay is located in the under hood power distribution box. You can simply switch it with another relay with the same part number, or you can follow these directions.

First, here is a link that shows how to check for power at the starter:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

In general, here is a link that shows how to test a relay:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Here are a few links that you may find helpful when checking:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Here are the directions specific to testing on your vehicle. Refer to picture 1 for relay and circuit orientation.

WARNING: CHECK TO ENSURE THAT THE TRANSMISSION IS IN THE PARK POSITION/NEUTRAL WITH THE PARKING BRAKE APPLIED.

Relay Test
The starter relay is located in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) in the engine compartment. Refer to the PDC label for relay identification and location.

Remove the starter relay from the PDC as described to perform the following tests:
1. A relay in the de-energized position should have continuity between terminals 87A and 30, and no continuity between terminals 87 and 30. If OK, go to Step 2. If not OK, replace the faulty relay
2. Resistance between terminals 85 and 86 (electromagnet) should be 75 ± 5 ohms. If OK, go to Step 3. If not OK, replace the faulty relay.
3. Connect a battery B+ lead to terminals 86 and a ground lead to terminal 85 to energize the relay. The relay should click. Also test for continuity between terminals 30 and 87, and no continuity between terminals 87A and 30. If OK, refer to Relay Circuit Test procedure. If not OK, replace the faulty relay.

Relay Circuit Test
1. The relay common feed terminal cavity (30) is connected to battery voltage and should be hot at all times. If OK, go to Step 2. If not OK, repair the open circuit to the PDC fuse as required.
2. The relay normally closed terminal (87A) is connected to terminal 30 in the de-energized position, but is not used for this application. Go to Step 3.
3. The relay normally open terminal (87) is connected to the common feed terminal (30) in the energized position. This terminal supplies battery voltage to the starter solenoid field coils. There should be continuity between the cavity for relay terminal 87 and the starter solenoid terminal at all times. If OK, go to Step 4. If not OK, repair the open circuit to the starter solenoid as required.
4. The coil battery terminal (86) is connected to the electromagnet in the relay It is energized when the ignition switch is held in the Start position. On vehicles with a manual transmission, the clutch pedal must be fully depressed for this test. Check for battery voltage at the cavity for relay terminal 86 with the ignition switch in the Start position, and no voltage when the ignition switch is released to the On position. If OK, go to Step 5. If not OK with an automatic transmission, check for an open or short circuit to the ignition switch and repair, if required. If the circuit to the ignition switch is OK, see the Ignition Switch Test procedure. If not OK with a manual transmission, check the circuit between the relay and the clutch pedal position switch for an open or a short. If the circuit is OK, see the Clutch Pedal Position Switch Test procedure.
5. The coil ground terminal (85) is connected to the electromagnet in the relay On vehicles with an automatic transmission, it is grounded through the park/neutral position switch only when the gearshift selector lever is in the Park or Neutral positions. On vehicles with a manual transmission, it is grounded at all times. Check for continuity to ground at the cavity for relay terminal 85. If not OK with an automatic transmission, check for an open or short circuit to the park/neutral position switch and repair, if required. If the circuit is OK, see the Park/Neutral Position Switch Test procedure. If not OK with a manual transmission, repair the circuit to ground as required.

Also, check fuse 8 in the power distribution box. It powers the starter relay.

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

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