I assume the engine is cranking ok now. If not, that's another issue.
Try to listen by the fuel tank or filler cap. When a helper turns on the ignition switch, you should hear the fuel pump run for about two seconds, then turn off. If you don't hear it, check the fuel pump fuse and the electrical connection to the pump. Look for broken or bent pins in the connector.
If you get that two second burst from the pump, check for spark while a helper cranks the engine. If you get spark, the fuel pump will be running again during cranking. Both systems are powered on the same circuit from the Automatic Shutdown (ASD) relay. If there is no spark or it is erratic, suspect a problem with the crankshaft position sensor or the camshaft position sensor. By changing a lot of parts previously, a bunch of new variables were introduced. Even professionals run into problems such as pins bent over in connectors, defective new parts right out of the box, incorrect sensor air gaps, etc.
If your Check Engine light is on, there is at least one diagnostic fault code stored in the engine computer's memory. Disconnecting the battery to replace it would have erased that code so that valuable information is lost. The engine computer also had the relationship between the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors' signals memorized. Specific conditions must be met for that information to be relearned. Usually it just means starting the engine like normal, but there might be an issue with replacing both sensors at the same time. Was there a starting problem before you had the battery trouble? If not, why did you replace those sensors and fuel pump? You didn't say what the original symptoms were or what troubleshooting steps you took; just that you changed a bunch of stuff.
If all the trouble began as a an engine stalling problem while you were driving, and the Check Engine light was on, you might suspect the dowel pin between the camshaft and its sprocket is sheared off, and the sprocket has turned a little on the shaft. That will mimic a jumped timing belt and be detected by the engine computer because the cam sensor's signal will be late compared to the crankshaft sensor's signal. The diagnostic code would be something to the effect of "Cam and Crank signals out of sync". When the timing belt jumps one tooth, the computer turns on the Check Engine light to warn you, and the code is put into memory. Two teeth off and the computer shuts the engine down to protect it from very costly damage. Three teeth off and the valves will hit the pistons. Luckily it won't get that far. This was actually more of a Neon thing, but in your car, the result would be the same if the timing belt really did jump a few teeth. It's a possibility if it has never been replaced yet at the mileage you listed. The first thing I would try is to reinstall the original crankshaft position sensor and that second sensor, then see what happens when you try to start it.
Wednesday, December 9th, 2009 AT 4:49 PM