Engine shut off while driving

Tiny
TEMEKA81
  • MEMBER
  • 2012 HYUNDAI SONATA
  • 2.4L
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 149,880 MILES
Was driving the car up a hill and it just quit like it ran out of gas. No check engine light was on. Car was very low on oil but no oil light. Tried to jump the car and it sounded like it wanted to turn over but didn’t. Then went back to a clunk sound when trying to start it. Checked battery at AutoZone and it was 100% I get regular oil changes. There was some rattling from time to time. Just drove the car 6 hours to Georgia from Mississippi no issues while driving and no lights came on. My airbag light and my tire light is on, but I know why because they need sensors. Please help! Took the battery out and someone told me the car won’t read any codes unless driven.
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Monday, February 17th, 2020 AT 4:50 PM

15 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

When you say you hear a clunk when trying to start, is the starter engaging but the engine not turning?

I'll wait for your reply, but if the engine is turning, we need to determine if there is spark and fuel to the engine. Here are links you may find helpful for testing:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

___________________________-

If the engine isn't cranking, there could be internal engine damage causing it to be locked up. I only say that because you mentioned the oil concerns. How low was it?

If you are certain the engine isn't locked, here is a link that explains how to check the starter:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

___________________

Here are the directions and diagnostics specific to your vehicle for testing fuel pressure. The attached pics correlate with the directions.

__________________

2012 Hyundai Sonata L4-2.4L
Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Vehicle Powertrain Management Fuel Delivery and Air Induction Fuel Pump Fuel Pressure Testing and Inspection Component Tests and General Diagnostics
COMPONENT TESTS AND GENERAL DIAGNOSTICS
Fuel Pressure Test

1. Release the residual pressure in fuel line .

CAUTION:
When removing the fuel pump relay, a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) may occur. Delete the code with the GDS after completion of "Release Residual Pressure in Fuel Line" work.

2. Install the Special Service Tool (SST).
(1)Disconnect the fuel feed tube from the high pressure fuel pump.

CAUTION:
There may be some residual pressure even after "Release Residual Pressure in Fuel Line" work, so cover the hose connection with a shop towel to prevent residual fuel from spilling out before disconnecting any fuel connection.

(2)Install the special service tool for measuring the fuel pressure in between the fuel feed tube and the high pressure fuel pump .

pic 1

3. Inspect fuel leakage on connections among the fuel feed tube, the high pressure fuel pump, and the SST components with IG ON.
4. Measure Fuel Pressure.
(1)Start the engine and measure the fuel pressure at idle.

Fuel Pressure:445 - 455 kPa (4.5 - 4.6 kgf/cm2, 64.5 - 66.0 psi)

NOTE:
If the fuel pressure differs from the standard value, repair or replace the related part .

pic 2

(2)Stop the engine, and then check for the change in the fuel pressure gauge reading.

Standard Value:The gauge reading should hold for about 5 minutes after the engine stops

NOTE:
If the gauge reading should not be held, repair or replace the related part .

pic 3

(3)Turn the ignition switch OFF.
5. Release the residual pressure in fuel line .

CAUTION:
When removing the fuel pump relay, a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) may occur. Delete the code with the GDS after completion of "Release Residual Pressure in Fuel Line" work.

6. Test End
(1)Remove the Special Service Tool (SST) from the fuel feed tube and the high pressure fuel pump.
(2)Connect the fuel feed tube and the high pressure fuel pump.

Fuel Pressure Test

1. Release the residual pressure in fuel line .

CAUTION:
When removing the fuel pump relay, a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) may occur. Delete the code with the GDS after completion of "Release Residual Pressure in Fuel Line" work.

2. Install the Special Service Tool (SST).
(1)Disconnect the fuel feed tube from the high pressure fuel pump.

CAUTION:
There may be some residual pressure even after "Release Residual Pressure in Fuel Line" work, so cover the hose connection with a shop towel to prevent residual fuel from spilling out before disconnecting any fuel connection.

(2)Install the special service tool for measuring the fuel pressure in between the fuel feed tube and the high pressure fuel pump .

pic 4

3. Inspect fuel leakage on connections among the fuel feed tube, the high pressure fuel pump, and the SST components with IG ON.
4. Measure Fuel Pressure.
(1)Start the engine and measure the fuel pressure at idle.

Fuel Pressure:480 - 520 kPa (4.9 - 5.3 kgf/cm2, 69.6 - 75.4 psi)

NOTE:
If the fuel pressure differs from the standard value, repair or replace the related part .

pic 5

(2)Stop the engine, and then check for the change in the fuel pressure gauge reading.

Standard Value:The gauge reading should hold for about 5 minutes after the engine stops

NOTE:
If the gauge reading should not be held, repair or replace the related part .

pic 6

(3)Turn the ignition switch OFF.
5. Release the residual pressure in fuel line .

CAUTION:
When removing the fuel pump relay, a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) may occur. Delete the code with the GDS after completion of "Release Residual Pressure in Fuel Line" work.

6. Test End
(1)Remove the Special Service Tool (SST) from the fuel feed tube and the high pressure fuel pump.
(2)Connect the fuel feed tube and the high pressure fuel pump.

__________________

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe
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Monday, February 17th, 2020 AT 6:12 PM
Tiny
TEMEKA81
  • MEMBER
Yes the oil was low low no warning lights came on. When trying to jump the car it acted like it wanted to turn over a few times but wouldn’t then after turning the ignition a few time start hearing the 1 clunk sound then nothing. No check engine light no oil light, no battery light.
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Monday, February 17th, 2020 AT 6:46 PM
Tiny
TEMEKA81
  • MEMBER
Oil was clean but at the very tip of the oil stick.
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Monday, February 17th, 2020 AT 6:46 PM
Tiny
TEMEKA81
  • MEMBER
The fuel was also low so I added fuel earlier today.
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Monday, February 17th, 2020 AT 6:52 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

If the oil was still on the stick, you should be okay. The idea that it was low on fuel as well makes me question if there is a fuel pressure issue. I have seen both dirt get picked up and block pressure and I have seen the pumps fail if the fuel is low enough. So, that is where I would start.

Is the engine cranking now or do you still get a click? If only a click, make sure the battery is full charged and that both battery terminals are clean and tight.

Also, if it is cranking, see if it starts for a couple seconds using starting fluid. If it does, then we have a fuel issue.

Let me know.

Joe
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Monday, February 17th, 2020 AT 7:04 PM
Tiny
TEMEKA81
  • MEMBER
Okay, thank you Joe. I’m going to have someone check it when the sun comes up. I was also on an incline/hill when the oil was checked. The engine is just clicking now I will up load a video. I know I’m not under the hood but when the hood is up it’s like one clank noise when I turn the ignition unless Solis giving me a jump then it acts like it’s going to turn over and doesn’t then back to the click while the jumper cables are still on. Hopefully it’s the fuel. I had another vehicle do something similar and it was my timing belt.
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Monday, February 17th, 2020 AT 7:19 PM
Tiny
TEMEKA81
  • MEMBER
Took the battery to AutoZone it was 100% charged. All lights come on and radio works so I’m assuming it’s charged.
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Monday, February 17th, 2020 AT 7:21 PM
Tiny
TEMEKA81
  • MEMBER
I haven’t had a check engine lite on the car drive well on a 6 hour drive and even when I got here. My nephew stole the car and drove it up the street and it cut off on him going up the hill.
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Monday, February 17th, 2020 AT 7:27 PM
Tiny
TEMEKA81
  • MEMBER
That’s how all this happened. I wasn’t driving the vehicle.
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Monday, February 17th, 2020 AT 7:27 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Okay. Since it does turn when you jump start it, that tells me the starter is good and the engine isn't locked up. However, if your battery is 100% and won't crank it, but it does crank when jumped, something is happening at the battery where the jumper cables are connected. I have seen conditions where the cables were loose enough that the jumper clamp tightened it enough and it made contact. So, just for the heck of it, double check them. I realize that sounds too easy, but you would be surprised how often it happens.

If they are tight and clean, switch the battery between your vehicle and the one being used to jump it and see what happens. This issues seems to be a connection issue.

I will watch for your reply. Please feel free to ask questions.

Joe
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+1
Monday, February 17th, 2020 AT 7:43 PM
Tiny
TEMEKA81
  • MEMBER
Okay, I sure will. Thank you very much Joe.
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Monday, February 17th, 2020 AT 7:57 PM
Tiny
TEMEKA81
  • MEMBER
Could the battery be bad and it’s just reading that it’s good at AutoZone?
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Monday, February 17th, 2020 AT 8:00 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Usually they will load test the battery which will indicate a bad battery, but I'm not sure that is what was done. Here is a simple test you can try for load testing the battery at home without a tester:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions. I will watch for your reply.

Joe
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Monday, February 17th, 2020 AT 8:17 PM
Tiny
TEMEKA81
  • MEMBER
Hello hoe, I had a mobile mechanic come check my car out. He said it’s the starter. He went under the car and hit it and the car almost cranked. Then he put jumper cables on it an it turned over even more. My gas is low and I’m on a bit of an incline so he suggested I get gas and replace the starter. Said going up the hill while driving with low fuel probably made the car shut off because the gas wasn’t getting to the proper place and then when trying to start it the starter gave out. Does this sound about right? He says the engine is not seized and it’s not my timing belt.
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Tuesday, February 18th, 2020 AT 11:36 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

Yes, that is very possible and is good news. Here is a link that explains in general how to replace a starter:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-starter-motor

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle. The attached pics correlate with the directions.

_________________________________________________

2012 Hyundai Sonata L4-2.4L
Repair Procedures
Vehicle Starting and Charging Starting System Starter Motor Service and Repair Removal and Replacement Repair Procedures
REPAIR PROCEDURES
Removal and Installation

1. Remove the engine cover.
2. Disconnect the battery negative terminal (A).

Tightening torque :
4.0 - 6.0N.m (0.4 - 0.6kgf.m, 3.0 - 4.4lb-ft)

3. Remove the air duct (B).

pic 1

4. Remove the air cleaner assembly.
(1)Disconnect the breather hose (A), the intensifier hose (B) and brake booster vacuum hose (C).
(2)Disconnect the air intake hose (D) and then remove the air cleaner assembly (E).

Tightening torque
Hose clamp bolt:
2.9 - 4.9N.m (0.3 - 0.5kgf.m, 2.2 - 3.6lb-ft)
Air cleaner assembly bolts:
7.8 - 9.8N.m (0.8 - 1.0kgf.m, 5.8 - 7.2lb-ft)

pic 2

5. Remove the ETC (Electronic throttle control) module (A) and MAPS (Manifold absolute pressure sensor & IATS (Intake air temperature sensor) (B).

Tightening torque:
9.8 - 11.8 N.m (1.0 - 1.2 kgf.m, 7.2 - 8.7 lb-ft)

pic 3

6. Remove the intake manifold stay (A).

Tightening torque:
18.6 - 23.5 N.m (1.9 - 2.4 kgf.m, 13.7 - 17.4 lb-ft)

pic 4

7. Disconnect the starter cable (A) from the B terminal on the solenoid, then disconnect the connector (B) from the S terminal.
8. Remove the 2 bolts (C) holding the starter, then remove the starter.

Tightening torque :
42.2 - 53.9N.m (4.3 - 5.5kgf.m, 31.1 - 39.8lb-ft)

pic 5

9. Installation is the reverse of removal.

______________________________

Let me know if this helps. Also, and this is important, make sure the battery is disconnected before you start working on the starter.

Take care and if you can, let me know the end results. By the way, that's an interesting name you called me. LOL You have no idea how many times by accident I type it that way. At least I hope it was an accident. LOL

Take care,
Joe
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Tuesday, February 18th, 2020 AT 7:22 PM

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