A/C stopped blowing cold, not sure compressor is running at all

Tiny
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You are welcome.

Always glad to help.

Roy
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Thursday, June 4th, 2020 AT 4:15 PM
Tiny
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This was not blowing cold enough at all on a 90 degree while idling. After hooking my lower side gauge up again, for me it was showing 30 PSI. I ended up increasing it to 37-38 and now it's blowing quite cold. From this Third Gen Eclipse specific site it says 25-40 PSI for low side pressure. 25-30 Definitely did not cut it on my vehicle. And I believe it was at 33-34 when I first started messing with it. At the end of the day it has mostly fresh R-134A in there at least, although it sounds like that stuff doesn't really wear out like other auto fluids.

https://www.club3g.com/threads/how-to-service-your-a-c-system-not-dialup-friendly.93372/
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Saturday, June 6th, 2020 AT 1:30 AM
Tiny
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Turned out it was actually at 30 PSI, but this was not blowing cold enough at all on a 90 degree day. So I increased it to 37 or 38 PSI and it's blowing good and cold now. This Eclipse specific site said 25-40 PSI was an acceptable range. While we're talking about A/C, are there any scheduled maintenance items I should consider replacing on my A/C to get it closer to working like it's brand new? It works pretty good now, but not like a brand new car or anything. And I don't want to top off the R-134A off any more.
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Saturday, June 6th, 2020 AT 1:33 AM
Tiny
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Yes, you will need to talk with Ken.

Roy
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Saturday, June 6th, 2020 AT 3:45 AM
Tiny
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I boosted it up to 37 or 38 PSI. A guide for specifically my car said 25 to 40 is acceptable. 25 to 30 was blowing way too warm when idling. It's much better now at 37-38 now. 34 was where it was before I messed with it, so 38 isnt much higher. The compressor stays running still, so doesnt seem overcharged. Are there any scheduled maintenance A/C items I should try replacing to get it colder? Or is a 20 year old car never going to compete with a brand new car A/C? I don't have a thermometer to test but it is blowing pretty cold honestly.
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Saturday, June 6th, 2020 AT 3:50 AM
Tiny
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How did you boost it up?

The lower the low side, the colder the air will come out.

Roy
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Saturday, June 6th, 2020 AT 4:10 AM
Tiny
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It was 25 or 30 PSI on low side and was very warm at idle. I used the recharge kit to go back up to 37-38 PSI. Now it blows much colder. When I overcharged it, it was even colder. But obviously the compressor was short cycling which was very bad. Up to 40 PSI seems to be acceptable for the low side on my car. At 38 the compressor doesn't shut off on its own anymore.
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Saturday, June 6th, 2020 AT 4:16 AM
Tiny
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Okay, but you overcharged it and that is not correct.

Did you use a charging machine to do the original charge?

Roy
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Saturday, June 6th, 2020 AT 4:19 AM
Tiny
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So what's the name of the sensor in these pictures that had broken loose? We soldered it back together and that fixed the A/C. It stopped blowing cold yesterday, and it has broken loose again. I don't think there's enough wire left on the sensor itself to solder it back together again. So probably gonna need a replacement.
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Tuesday, June 9th, 2020 AT 1:58 PM
Tiny
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I've circled the sensor in yellow on the diagram. Of course nowhere in the repair manual do they actually put the name of it that I can find.
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Tuesday, June 9th, 2020 AT 2:18 PM
Tiny
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The connector you circled is for the temperature switch.

Roy
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Tuesday, June 9th, 2020 AT 2:27 PM
Tiny
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Can you find the part for me? Temperature switch just seemed to bring up the ECT sensor and engine cooling fan sensor. Which temperature switch are you referring to?
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Tuesday, June 9th, 2020 AT 3:10 PM
Tiny
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Okay, I attached the part number for you. You need to contact the dealer parts department to confirm price and availability.

Roy
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Tuesday, June 9th, 2020 AT 3:20 PM
Tiny
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The part you linked appears to connect to the opposite side of the compressor from the connector I'm talking about. I'm attaching more pictures. It is a one wire connector that is housed in a ribbed gray plastic shell, and it continue all the way up to the main wiring harness behind the engine with the MAP sensor and such. So I suppose a complete replacement would include the wire all the way up to this point, or to replace the entire connector harness.
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Tuesday, June 9th, 2020 AT 5:07 PM
Tiny
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The connector is the round black circle connector in the bottom left of the last picture. It's right up next to the pulley.
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Tuesday, June 9th, 2020 AT 5:09 PM
Tiny
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The only other connector is for the clutch itself which is part of the compressor.

I could not make out anything from your pictures.

Roy
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Wednesday, June 10th, 2020 AT 1:21 AM
Tiny
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Mostly the last picture is the useful one. It shows exactly where the connector sits on the compressor. The black circle connector in the lower left is the connector in question.

Can you find the part number for the A/C clutch connector then? This appears to be spliced in directly to the main harness though. That's what the other pictures are supposed to show, that the gray sort of ribbed plastic housing for the wire continues all the way up to the main harness, splicing in right around the MAP sensor. There is no other connector that it plugs into, like the refrigerant switch sensor that you mentioned above does.
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Wednesday, June 10th, 2020 AT 1:27 AM
Tiny
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Here's a perfect picture. It's the connector right by the clutch. So I guess you're right, it's the A/C Compressor Clutch Connector. I can't for the life of me find one online. I found Standard Motors part #S-1530 which is very similar, but it's 2-wire and has a slightly different connector from mine.
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Wednesday, June 10th, 2020 AT 1:47 AM
Tiny
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I finally found it in the repair manual. It's called Magnetic Clutch Connector in there. But searching for that brings up no results. This may simply be a junk yard item only.
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Wednesday, June 10th, 2020 AT 1:52 AM
Tiny
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There is no part number for the connector. It is not serviced separately.

You could just bypass the connector and solder and shrink wrap the wires together to eliminate the connector itself.

Roy
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Wednesday, June 10th, 2020 AT 1:55 AM

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