Engine Overheating

Tiny
KJBURNSY
  • 2001 FORD TAURUS
  • 3.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 160,000 MILES

My temperature indicator always stayed at a constant position (about half way up). The other day, for no particular reason, I happened to glance down at the gauge and it was almost at the H level (all the way up). I opened the hood and noticed the reservoir was empty and there was green coolant all over the passenger side area on all parts around the reservoir. I bought a gallon of coolant and poured it in the reservoir. It took almost a full gallon less about a cup or two. No water just coolant, as it is cold here in NJ, and I had been topping off the reservoir with water in the warm months, because I had no coolant available and I didn't need to worry about freezing.) So, I thought maybe there might be something frozen in the cooling system causing a blockage. I let it sit for a few moments and then took it for a drive. The gauge stayed normal for a few minutes and then started creeping its way back to the H level. I pulled over and noticed the reservoir looked almost empty. I was close to home so I drove it home and then let it run and looked under the hood. The plastic reservoir was full and coolant was "forcing" itself out of the sealed pressurized cap on the reservoir. It was bubbling out at a very fast rate. I thought radiator, water pump, or blockage in the system somewhere. It was dark and I had a flashlight. I was ready to close the hood, when I noticed this type of metal stringy material near the air cleaner system toward the driver side of the engine. I looked at it and grabbed it and pulled it, and the material that I managed to pull off looked like belt material reinforced with bands of some sort of strings of metal. So, I thought it must be a belt that operates the water pump. Trouble is, everywhere I look on the Internet, says the main serpentine belt drives just about everything in the engine, including the water pump. So, my question is, what is the material I pulled off that looked like part of a belt and is that the cause of the engine overheating and bubbling out of the cap on the plastic reservoir? I didn't have a chance to look at it today in the daylight, but hope to work on it tomorrow. I need to replace whatever that "belt" type thing is, and find out why the system is overheating. (A side note: for about a month, I have noticed as I pull into a parking lot, and look at the road where I pulled in, a line of liquid in spots about the size of a silver dollar spaced about 5-6 inched apart. In other words, something was leaking out slowly as I drove, but didn't notice it until I would park and see these spots as if something was dripping slowly out as the engine is on.) When I am parked and the engine is off and cool, there is no puddle under the area where the plastic reservoir is, on the ground. The images are just a piece of what I pulled out, not the full size of the belt or whatever it is. Can you guys figure that out?

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Tuesday, February 10th, 2015 AT 10:50 PM

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Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
  • 28,976 POSTS

Picture didn't show up. If that's part of the belt, the water pump is likely slipping and a new belt is all that's needed. The coolant will build up pressure to 15 psi, then it will push into the reservoir, and that can overflow and make a mess. You have to check the pulleys though too. If any pulley is sloppy, turned, or tipped, it will shred the new belt the same way.

Check this guide out

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-overheating-or-running-hot

Overheating will also push coolant into the reservoir where it can overflow. That is often due to a leaking cylinder head gasket. Your mechanic can do a quick chemical test for that. The test involves drawing air from the radiator through a glass cylinder with two chambers partially-filled with a special dark blue liquid. If combustion gases are present, the liquid will turn bright yellow. A leaking head gasket will cause overheating too because the combustion gases will pool under the thermostat. Thermostats have to be hit with hot liquid to open. Hot air won't do it.

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Tuesday, February 10th, 2015 AT 11:24 PM
Tiny
KJBURNSY
  • MEMBER

Yes, they are part of a belt of some sort, but not the main serpentine belt thats on the passenger side. I looked everywhere on the net, and could find no reference to a separate water pump belt. Is there actually a belt there where I described closer to the driver side? It does have a plastic rounded cover / housing over it, it seems, to prevent anyone or anything from getting caught in it. In the daylight I will look tomorrow and see if it's a belt and see how difficult it will be to put a new one on. Also, I will remember about the coolant and the combustion gases. I just don't know why I have not seen anything mentioned anywhere about a smaller separate belt, away from the large serpentine belt. It's definitely all ripped apart and not causing whatever it is connected to to operate. Thank you very much. I am going to the Social Services tomorrow to get General Disability assistance because I cannot walk. If they approve it, I will make sure I come back and leave you a donation soon, because you provide an invaluable service, and I'm sure most of the people do not donate, which they should if they have the money. Take care.

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Wednesday, February 11th, 2015 AT 12:20 AM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
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  • 28,976 POSTS

You're a wonderful human being!

I use the Rock Auto web site for reference a lot. They DO show a smaller belt for the water pump, but I didn't look if there's a difference between the single and twin-cam engines.

The pictures showed up. I can't say for sure, but it kind of looks like the belt is dry-rotted. That would cause if to break apart in strands like in the first picture. Shredding on the side is caused by a tipped or turned pulley that forces the belt to ride against the lip on the side of a pulley. A single break is caused by a sudden shock from a locked-up pulley, usually the AC compressor.

Maybe you can sew the pieces back together?

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Wednesday, February 11th, 2015 AT 1:18 AM
Tiny
KJBURNSY
  • MEMBER

Hahaha! This is just a smal piece of what I could pull off. SO, there IS a separate belt over by the driver side then! I wonder why I couldn't find any mention of it anywhere, not even parts places like auto zone and advance.

I'll just cut the bad one, not much left to cut I would gather, but getting the new one on is a different matter. They didn't leave any breathing room in those big Vulcan Duratec 6 cyl 24 Valve DOHC 3.0L EFI engines. When that thing kicks into OD on the highway, it's a rocket! You should have seen the de-assembly / assembly process I had to go through to put a new brake booster and master cylinder on it! And a new blower motor for the fan, heat and A/C under the passenger side dash was just as bad!Thanks for your help. Keep up the great work. Going to Social services now.

HAVE A GREAT DAY!

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Wednesday, February 11th, 2015 AT 4:17 AM
Tiny
CONNIE43
  • 2001 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 145,000 MILES

My car a 2001 ford tarus is overheating what could be the problem? I have replaced the water pump replaced the thermostat heater core isn't leaking runs okay for awhile then overheats. Fans are working could it be the catlytic converter its the original one

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Wednesday, May 3rd, 2017 AT 12:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPROS KEN
  • ADMIN
  • 11,708 POSTS

Hello,

It sounds like you have a blown head gasket while is causing the overheating condition you have described, Here is a guide to check the head gasket failure to be sure.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/head-gasket-blown-test

Please run this test and get back to us so we can continue helping you.

Cheers, Ken

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Wednesday, May 3rd, 2017 AT 12:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ALEXANDREA NICKOLE BLACKMAN
  • 2001 FORD TAURUS
  • 3.0L
  • V6
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 241,000 MILES

Everything under the hood is brand new, all except the radiator, transmission, and bottom half of the engine. New heads, gaskets, water pump, thermostat, hoses, reservoir, cap, ext. Ext. We have used an "air lift" system to vacuum the air out after emptying the coolant, then refilled. Still running hot to the point of overheating if you let it keep. Multiple new thermos, and 2nd water pump, ext. I am at a loss. People are saying something about "air locked system". Any ideas?

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Wednesday, May 3rd, 2017 AT 12:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
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Why would you not change the radiator after a head gasket failure? That should be automatic unless you found another confirmed cause for the failure.

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Wednesday, May 3rd, 2017 AT 12:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ALEXANDREA NICKOLE BLACKMAN
  • MEMBER

Two certified mechanics gave me their word that it did not have to be replaced.

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Wednesday, May 3rd, 2017 AT 12:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ALEXANDREA NICKOLE BLACKMAN
  • MEMBER

2 certified mechanics gave me their word that it didn't have to be replaced.

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Wednesday, May 3rd, 2017 AT 12:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
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They have no way to know that. They cannot see inside of it.

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Wednesday, May 3rd, 2017 AT 12:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ALEXANDREA NICKOLE BLACKMAN
  • MEMBER

Thank you! I am grabbing a new radiator now, burping my system in the morning and I will have it on the road tomorrow afternoon.

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Wednesday, May 3rd, 2017 AT 12:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
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The vacuum fill should be sufficient to get all the air out of the system. I never have a problem using that.

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Wednesday, May 3rd, 2017 AT 12:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
QUBE34
  • 2001 FORD TAURUS

Engine Cooling problem
2001 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 114000 miles

The fans that cool the radiator switch on when the AC or heater are turned on, but fail to turn on and stay on automatically or stay on after the car is off causing the radiator to stay hot and the antifreeze to steam out. I replaced the ETC sensor and thermostat. The fuses have been switched around and everything works there. Is there another sensor in the radiator that helps it turn on?

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Wednesday, May 3rd, 2017 AT 12:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • EXPERT
  • 19,466 POSTS

When key off fan should stop, if have an overheating problem have to check for the reason
Very common for the plastic bottle on the side to have a crake in it, pressure will cause a leak
Bad coolant system cap will do the same too
Hope I understood your question correctly if not please can you elaborate

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Wednesday, May 3rd, 2017 AT 12:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
QUBE34
  • MEMBER

Presssure check was done and there are not leaks in the tanks. Is there another sensor that would cause the fans not to turn on? They don't turn on while driving either unless the AC is on or the heater is turned on. What sensor or sensors cause the fans to turn on?

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Wednesday, May 3rd, 2017 AT 12:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • EXPERT
  • 19,466 POSTS

Should check for codes if not dont it yet

Coolant temperature sensor and coolant temp sender
They located rear of engine by the thermostat housing

coolant temp sensor activate the fan when needed


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/99387_Graphic1_663.jpg

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Wednesday, May 3rd, 2017 AT 12:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SHAWING66
  • 2001 FORD TAURUS

Engine Cooling problem
2001 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 30000 miles

I have a leak in my overflow tank at the seal, not the cap. There is no crack that I can find so I assume it is the rubber seal. I am not having any heating issues but the car has been garage kept most of it's life until recently hence the low mileage (2001 30000miles) so I'm assuming rubber is begining to dryrot. I would like to try and seal before I replace the entire tank. The leak is above the coolant line so it comes out as a vapor and radiator sealer will not work. How about epoxy, gorilla glue, or silicon sealer? Thoughts?

- cheers

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Wednesday, May 3rd, 2017 AT 12:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • EXPERT
  • 19,466 POSTS

No rubber in or on the tank
you have the tank and the cap
very, very common for the tank to have a hair crack in it causing the leak
take it out and inspect

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Wednesday, May 3rd, 2017 AT 12:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SHAWING66
  • MEMBER

Well however the 2 sections of the tank are connected( and there are 2 sections with my tank) there is a leak between them. Is there any specific epoxy or other sealant that you recommend?

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Wednesday, May 3rd, 2017 AT 12:06 PM (Merged)

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