Caliper with no pads and a badly damaged rotor, how to remove the damaged brake rotor?

Thanks, Steve. That helped a lot, especially liked your "dirty trick" on, in effect, reverse-flushing the caliper. Your point about cleaning the master cylinder reservoir with a Brake-Kleen-dampened rag, after removing just enough fluid, should clear a small viewing window.

Pedal
Lo and behold, the pedal seemed much better this afternoon when tested, to be sure I needed to pull off the wheel and re-bleed. I'll drive more carefully than usual the next few days, and any remaining air pocket should reveal itself.

Next, the Rear Brake Drums
All the old parts will be removed, replaced with new drums, shoes and cylinders. Although I have done the procedure with several cars, it always seems like the first time, until I recall the familiar spring removal order, etc.

Electric Impact Wrench
Have reached the point an electric impact wrench seems desirable. That would help me set the torque more reliably and consistently on the wheel lug nuts, which is my only use for it, Yes, I am probably over-cautious about using such a tool on the lower-torque-value bolts, and prefer to operate by the feel of a bolt as it nears its assigned torque value. If I were a professional mechanic, where time-is-money, using an impact wrench everywhere possible would be the only way to operate. When and if the day comes, I want a more "delicate" electric wrench, do you have a recommendation for brand or type of wrench to use to loosen and accurately reset torque on smaller bolts, like the manifold gasket?

Oh, yes, cellphone photos can save the day. Long before most people used a cellphone to document their auto repair work, I had discovered how important a good reference photo can be. The best part is today's cellphones have really good closeup lenses and reasonably fast shutter speeds, so a well-lighted view of almost anything is possible.

Pedal Update
There is still some air in the left front, so that is my next project-- even before the rear brakes.

Electric Impact Wrench
After reviewing cost of a complete electric wrench-- wrench motor, charger, battery and impact socket set-- I realized I am into another, relatively expensive gadget that is a labor-saver, but not necessary for my limited amount of auto work. For removing and reapplying lug nuts, a breaker bar is completely acceptable.

Bleeder Screw
Have run across some articles recommending that if I ever find a caliper bleeder screw frozen, I should consider another bleeding method, rather than strip the valve. That complicates the bleeding process, but the POV has value. In my history, one of my cars had a bleeder screw stripped out by a careless brake mechanic. What other method, if any is available, could I use? You mention you prefer a power bleeder.

Thanks, Steve, good advice. I had to resort to a six-point socket to loosen the last one, because the "C"-shaped 10mm wrench was beginning to slip, and I did not want to round the bleeder valve.
Nothing cleans an encrusted thread like even 30-seconds with a (fine) wire brush.