Fuel pump does not prime has pressure when cranking relay has been replaced.

Tiny
SHIZOMA
  • 1991 HONDA ACCORD
  • 675,000 MILES

Quick question no start replaced a lot of parts when probing yellow wire to fuel pump assembly. Supposed to supply 12v to pump I have res to grd Is there supposed to be resistance to ground there.

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Friday, April 6th, 2012 AT 9:12 PM

17 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER

Check/test the main relay

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Friday, April 6th, 2012 AT 9:16 PM
Tiny
SHIZOMA
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Relay is good checked several times pump does not prime however provides pressure when cranking ecm comes on energizes relay after some time tinkering I decided to look for a grounded fuel pump. Internally grounded as I have had an issue like this with a different vehicle. Removed 3 pin connector at fuel pump. Probed the yellow wire which supplies twelve volts to the fuel pump this test was done with harness d/c at the fuel pump between yellow wire and ground I have approx 50-150 ohms.

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Friday, April 6th, 2012 AT 10:03 PM
Tiny
SHIZOMA
  • MEMBER

Vehicle wont start I have tested injectors, relay, dist, cap rotor wires ecm pulses injector wires I have 12v hot to injector wires. Tested all fuses. Reset ecm. Blinking s light and no start

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Friday, April 6th, 2012 AT 10:07 PM
Tiny
SHIZOMA
  • MEMBER

Vehicle does crank. Should have added that

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Friday, April 6th, 2012 AT 10:08 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
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Recheck it -Remove the main relay and then test the yellow wire to direct ground

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Friday, April 6th, 2012 AT 10:09 PM
Tiny
SHIZOMA
  • MEMBER

I have spark and fuel to rail but only when cranking. Sorry for so many replies but adding all that I have done replaced ecm was in water replaced dist. Replaced main relay because I foolishly thought with blinking s light it was bad codes 7 and 8 from tcm both shift solenoid codes

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Friday, April 6th, 2012 AT 10:11 PM
Tiny
SHIZOMA
  • MEMBER

Ok but as I stated I tested the yellow wire at the fuel pump not harness side of the wire

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Friday, April 6th, 2012 AT 10:12 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER

Dunno the total resistances of the fuel pump motor windings-as you've check it and its 50-150 ohms

Do this power the fuel pump direct from the battery and see what happens

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Friday, April 6th, 2012 AT 10:49 PM
Tiny
SHIZOMA
  • MEMBER

Ok just a hick update sorry took so long to get back here.I pulled injectors have great spray all four plugs firing. Firing order correct. Manually cranked engine by hand to ensure distributor seated correctly it is.S light stopped blinking. Still no start checked ect. Tps. Iat. Seems like my map sensor isn't showing correct return voltage for 0 in/hg only have.19v returning which appears to be what it should read at full vacuum.I don't have a vacuum pump so I can't test other voltage readings.I think I am going lil crazy here thanks for your time PS bout 150 psi per cylinder compression I really am losing it this is the second new distributor I put in because the first one I got had a bad reluctor.I am sad

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Sunday, April 8th, 2012 AT 5:05 AM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER

Check the valve and ignition timing if its correctly set.

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Sunday, April 8th, 2012 AT 5:06 PM
Tiny
SHIZOMA
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I should have mentioned that I did pull the valve cover all the mechanical reasons for it to not run are sound the rebuild was done by an excellent machine shop here however I did visually verify the valve timing

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Sunday, April 8th, 2012 AT 5:53 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER

Is the fuel pump coming on and has the correct fuel pressure? I need the fuel pressure before I can continue to help you-

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Sunday, April 8th, 2012 AT 6:01 PM
Tiny
SHIZOMA
  • MEMBER

Ok first of all I just want to say thank you.I have been so frustrated with this car I have about 15 years experience as an ase tech and have never had this issue before. Course I never was very good at electrical so here's a breakdown of some updates. The s light no longer blinks the fuel pump currently primes properly I have 43psi during prime and while cranking. It seems I have worked out alot of the electrical issues removes and unstuck egr pintle sensor and map sensor which was sending a full vacuum signal to the ecm. Now has the proper 3 volts. Here's the kicker the car ran albeit not great before I replaced the distributor.I have a sneaking suspicion the distributor is bad this was the second one I got from napa the first had a bad reluctor I pulled the injectors to verify nice conical spray.I have spark. Mechanically the timing is on it really wants to start but just won't

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Monday, April 9th, 2012 AT 5:30 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
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Inspect and test the TDC sensor in the distributor

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Monday, April 9th, 2012 AT 8:03 PM
Tiny
SHIZOMA
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Sorry so long to update 390 ohms tdc sensor I may add also that it def flooding I can smell fuel in the oil so I am cranking it empty w starter bypass right now

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Tuesday, April 10th, 2012 AT 11:18 PM
Tiny
SHIZOMA
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Also the plugs are black as can be

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Tuesday, April 10th, 2012 AT 11:22 PM
Tiny
SHIZOMA
  • MEMBER

Anyone?

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Wednesday, April 11th, 2012 AT 5:14 PM

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